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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2010, 12:17 AM
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Sometimes "SEM self leveling" methods invite and provoke a load it on feeling reaction.. these surfacers/sealers are moving around slow like lava and are slow to cure ..

My vote is it's the sealer that is the "self leveling" culprit along with to heavy a coat of it without enough cure time there , the rest floated around on it like an ice cap..hence

youll' get it though

just saying

Last edited by milo; 10-07-2010 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:11 AM
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Milo,

I didn't use a sealer. I only used Epoxy primer then base coat. I noticed a small amount of cracks on the passenger jam which had cured about 5 days.

I lightly sanded the base coat then sprayed a very light cover let it sit 30 min and cleared that. It looked good yesterday and I will check it today. The original spot is stripped and I will try it again today.

SAM
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nanaimoBC
wow....in 20 years of painting car's ive never seen anything like that.I wouldnt take any chances and would strip it right down and start over
I've seen that one time before,Also in a jamb..The cause was from an excessive amount of oil ,wax or armor all....the only thing you can do is get the primer off and give it a through cleaning and sanding then wash it with an abrasive cleaner like comet and a scuff pad.....When you used the wax & grease remover did you wipe it on dripping wet then imediately wipe it off before it started evaporating ?
To get it off might be a problem, before you try chemicals try getting under it through the cracks with a razor blade and see if it'll flake off then use an air blower with as much pressure as you can get or try both at the same time..it might blow of if your lucky...
It wasnt the materials it was a prep problem...
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by off2wildblue
On top of the clean metal I shot two coats of SPI Epoxy primer then let it sit over night and put on SEM Self Leveling seem sealer, SAM
is this a brush on or a spray just on the seam ?, anyway this is what caught my eye and didn't catch the word *seem*.. I don't see a fault with the epoxy primer unless it wasn't mixed right...

For a while I thought you added something like ... ppg primer

Last edited by milo; 10-07-2010 at 06:06 AM. Reason: link
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:43 AM
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Not sure if that is entirely correct. Unless the excessive wax was clear down to clean metal. Some of the areas that cracked were sanded all the way down to clean metal and some of the cracks were on the seam sealer that was put on after the epoxy. Also, I did prep it with wax and grease remover and also wiped it off before evaporation.

What is the best way to clean bare metal?

It takes forever to wipe it clean using wax and grease remover only.

Thanks,

SAM
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:44 AM
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It reminds me of a lack of hardener. Ive had this once in a bad batch of primer. When you flake it off was it like a powder under there? As far as the metal goes, sand,tack and etching primer. I wouldn't use wax and grease remover on bare metal as it can (soak in ) the metal.
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:00 AM
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So do you think I should bypass the epoxy primer and just use an etching primer?

I do have a rattle can etching primer that I have used on small insignificant items but 2 part epoxy just seems tougher.

Also, the Epoxy did seem to sand off a little too easily.

SAM
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by off2wildblue
So do you think I should bypass the epoxy primer and just use an etching primer?

I do have a rattle can etching primer that I have used on small insignificant items but 2 part epoxy just seems tougher.

Also, the Epoxy did seem to sand off a little too easily.

SAM

The epoxy should stick to the metal but in your case what could it hurt. Sand it,etch it and then epoxy a spot and see if it cracks.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2010, 06:16 AM
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are you saying the SPI epoxy is cracking over bare metal???? I would strongly advice you NOT to use a rattle can etch ...The proper way to mix SPI epoxy is 1:1 then let it sit for about 15 min. then stir it up again ,put it in the gun and spray...Something is on the surface of the jambs ..There was a rust inhibitor that was sprayed on at the dealer in the 70's ,Ployglycoat or something like that ,that gave us fits nothing stuck it either ..
The only "sure cure" is to strip everything down to the steel and start over again..Did you try blowing it off with an air blower? when you sand through the cracks and get to the surface the primer is on ,does the edge break away or feather?
this could also becaused by a seriously contaminated air supply ,maybe spraying something else (an old fender)would help.if you get the same problem with two differnt surfaces and two differnt primers,it must be an air supply problem..
that seam sealer looks like its still soft underneath does it dent when you press it with your finger ???

Last edited by deadbodyman; 10-09-2010 at 06:44 AM.
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Old 10-09-2010, 06:54 AM
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yeh as the old yin said above

is it still soft?


i have seen this a few times before on shipping containers my work was painting

its a reaction to the paint below ....the solvents in the fresh coat attack the layer below ...softens the paint and its a pita


i would sugest stripping back... then put a few light coats of epoxy then once it has a film on it then go on med/wet coats should be fine after that !


tommy


tommy
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2010, 03:36 PM
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I've been using that brand of epoxy almost daily for 5 years, never have a seen such a thing except when there was some other product involved, usually over the top of a thick epoxy application, too soon in cool weather.

It's my opinion that it's almost impossible that the cracking pictured is a chemical problem with the epoxy. There has to be another substance under, or over the epoxy working in conjunction with the slow drying epoxy that is causing that.
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