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Old 10-05-2010, 09:45 PM
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Base coat with hair line cracks ***?

I sprayed my base coat PPG Shopline JBL and it has cracks in it. I sanded a few of them and they seem to come out. At least I will check it again tomorrow to make sure. I know most of you folks frown on this paint and maybe I see your point now. This is for my son's daily driver and money is a factor also, this was only the door jambs and inside of door and trunk area.

Anyway, I will call the paint store tomorrow but is there something I might have done wrong?

SPI Epoxy which sat overnight. Paint on today at 73 degrees (metal temp checked with infared gauge). I thought I let it flash long enough but did I possible screw that up or did I put too much on or too thick of a coat? I didn't have any runs in the base. I will clear tomorrow within the 24 hour window if I get this paint fixed in time.

So my questions are:
1. What was my possible causes?
2. What do I do if my base goes over 24 hour window?
3. Any questions you would ask the paint store folks?
4. Any recommendations for economical but good paint?

Thanks a bunch,

SAM

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Old 10-06-2010, 03:55 AM
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is the vehicle sitting in a warm shop/garage overnight?..i'm in Ga too and know it's been getting in low 50's at night and last night it was in the high 40's here in southeast Ga.
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:00 AM
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It sat with epoxy only on it overnight in an insulated steel building. When I went to the shop at about 9:00 am the metal temp was 63 degrees. I waited until the metal temp was up to 72 before spraying the base. As you know in Ga yesterday the humidity was not a factor (not a cloud in the sky).

Any idea's? I hate to try and spray the body and this happen. That would be a disaster.

SAM
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:11 AM
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I looked closer at the cracks and it is hard to see, but some of them go through the epoxy. SPI says it was the solvents escaping with the base on top. Hard to believe. I let it sit 24 hours. Should have been okay with just base on it. It even got worse last night which is greater than 24 hours.

How do you recommend fixing it?

I sanded it last night and airbrushed an area and it cracked too. So it couldn't have been too thick there.

In the attached photos you can see where the paint was removed with lacquer thinner and you can see the cracks in the epoxy.

SAM
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:24 AM
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Don't get into a hurry. Things happen. If you did not put the clear on yet, you are not in that deep. I would not do anything else for a few weeks. Figure out a plan. When it comes time to paint the car, you can just scuff up the base coat and put some more on. If the primer was not cured, it should be in a few weeks.
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:30 AM
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I didn't notice the pictures before I posted. What kind of paint did you put the epoxy over? It's important to know what paint is on there. Paint and primer won't cover up problems.
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:32 AM
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is that fibreglass??? if so it looks like cracks in the gelcoat
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:37 AM
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Not gelcoat, it was on metal. Crazy huh?

It is bugging the hell out of me.

SAM
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:40 AM
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wow....in 20 years of painting car's ive never seen anything like that.I wouldnt take any chances and would strip it right down and start over
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:46 AM
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Last edited by adantessr; 10-06-2010 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Leave it to the experts
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:04 AM
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Looking at the pictures, this is nothing to do with solvents escaping.

The problem is the red underneath, be it lacquer primer or crazed lacquer paint, if you do get it covered up, it will be a problem that is not going away and only fix is stripping, those spots.

Also on the panel what is the blue spot? blue acrylic glaze?

Epoxy nor the shopline base is smart enough to say i think I will screw up here and work OK over here. So that means it was mixed right and that means the activator is not an issue and with epoxy almost never is.

Time to strip.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:22 AM
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Barry,

I am not sure what "blue spot" you are referring to. I did spray over some red paint with epoxy then base but in the last picture on the top of the rocker panel it was all the way to the metal. Clean metal too. On top of the clean metal I shot two coats of SPI Epoxy primer then let it sit over night and put on SEM Self Leveling seem sealer, then let it sit a few hours later and then just over 24 hours after that initial epoxy I shot the base coats.

My one constant is that the epoxy. I shot one door jam about four days ago then shot the drivers side jam and the drivers door when this happened. The door and the driver's jam are the only ones to crack. The places I previously shot with epoxy are fine. Just this one shooting of epoxy is where I had problems.

Believe me I am not hiding anything. I just want to know how to fix it and how not to make it happen again.

SAM
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:31 AM
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It has nothing to do with you, like I said, I think everything was done right but you can tell by the splits, those areas MUST be sanded down, who knows what is underneath, what ever it is the epoxy drew up and it stopped the epoxy from curing in the normal chain of events that it does, so there is no repairing at this point, just stripping.

The epoxy may have sanded just fine but that is not a sure fact that it was curing right, as epoxy will do the same thing over an acid, cure good on outside but never cure on the inside or at the metal.

This is a nasty one for sure and can't say i have ever seen epoxy react so violent.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:46 AM
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Barry,

Yea, I agree, it is nasty. I will get is down to the metal and try again. I did use, for the first time, the SPI waterbourne wax and grease remover. I doubt that is an issue because other places I used it are okay.

Needless to say I will sand it down and try again.

Thanks for the advice.

SAM
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:35 PM
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Well, I checked the other side and it had about 5 small cracks. I thought what the heck and sanded them, lightly touched them up and then sprayed Universal Clear over it. So we'll see what happens with that.

The original side that I showed with all the cracks is down to the metal. I will will be spraying epoxy on it tomorrow. I won't use SPI this time I am going to go with Transtar. I will update when it is complete.

SAM
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