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Old 02-20-2006, 01:35 PM
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Base Coat problems

Hey all-

This is my first time every doing a BC/CC. I have done only two other jobs and both where single stage...and I am having problems.

I sanded right down to the bare metal (80grit) cleaned the steel, degreased, spayed epoxy primer, sanded down to 180, sprayed siskens colour build primer then sanded down to 600grit using 320, 400,600.Re-coated primer where needed (same sanding) I then went on to spraying the base (siskens base and medium reducer) I was spraying with a Divilbiss GTI gun with a 1.3 tip and presure at 30psi/10psi acording to the digital guage. This is my first time spraying base!!! anyway, at the start all was going well...then I looked and oh #$@# runs/sags were starting!

My question is how much are you actually put down? should I have put in a bit less reducer? I went by the mixing stick as per directions. Or should I have been using a 1.2 tip? Also, there was a few nibs showing....I went over that panel ALOT with tack cloth and there was nothing....anyway, I have heard that clear will cover alot of it if its just lint??? how true is that?

Now my next question is this door (all doors are off truck and lying flat) should I sand entire door or just runs? if so what grit? wet or dry? I did also notice that some scratches were showing in the base coat...I am painting black? will clear help hide these or make it worse?


Sorry for all the questions...just don't want to screw this up!

Thanks...Ryan

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Old 02-20-2006, 01:45 PM
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I screwed up on the product. It is actually Lesonal. The base coat is Lesonal Basecoat SB and Pro-Air Clear by Lesonal for the clear coat!
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Old 02-20-2006, 02:49 PM
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The Lesinol reducers evaporate very slow compared to other manufacturer's within the same temperature range. If your air temp is cold just get some faster reducer and let it flash longer between coats. Lesinol is known for coverage problems and I've had a few problems often times needing 5-6 coats even with the suggested sealer color. The reduction if only 50% so if you have a quart of paint you add one pint of reducer. What color are you spraying? Is it covering OK? What is the air temp and what temp reducer are you using. Also you should activate your basecoat with a capfull of clear hardener per mixed quart of Basecoat- this will make for better durablity and also repairability. The Lesinol system can be a ***** to repair if you don't activate your base, the reducers are really hot.
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:01 PM
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It has been a while since I did paint a body work (20 years), until I wrecked my P/U in 2002. The insurance company totaled it out but I knew it wasn't totaled, drivable wise. So going back to removing everything off the truck, doing the repairs, and then sanding the whole truck. I had my share of experiences some what you faced. Even though I did body work before, but a long time ago, I lost some of my touch, so I had some runs and some sags, (not much at all), but after I painted my hood, the paint started wrinkling in one area. I thought that I had put too much reducer, but learned that the area I was painting was also repaired before by a body shop, and they may have used different primers and paint a from what I was using. I was using Spries-Heckler. Chemical differences in paint will certainly mess up a job and make more work as I had learned all over again because different chemicals won't work with each other.

I didn't pay too much attention as to what type tips I used, I got me a good HVLP gun that came with a 1.8 tip and it was good enough to do the job. I was more concerned about air pressure and my fan spray pattern coming out of the nozzle. I took my time and moved moderately and not fast and not slow, (fast can give you somewhat of an orange peal effect, and slow can give you runs and sags). It is good to pary a light coat at first and let it get a little tacky before spraying over it again. This can help control coverage and prevent runs and sags by spraying light coats at a time. I was learning all over again. Someone here may have some other answers on nozzle tips. I know one thing about painting, you have to wear lint free clothing or you will have lint all over the project. Yes, some basecoat may cover it up depending on the color used and the color of the lint, but then again it depends on how much fell onto the paint. Best to be sure and wear lint free clothing and gloves. Also, (a good CLEAN paint area), just air movement in a paint room or garage and throw particles on your project without you knowing it until you are done and get the parts or project out into the light, especially sunlight.

Another thing, when painting black, everything from the prep of the surface, to smoothness all has to be perfect, because black will show every little flaw that is there.

Last edited by TheHarleyMan2; 02-20-2006 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
The Lesinol reducers evaporate very slow compared to other manufacturer's within the same temperature range. If your air temp is cold just get some faster reducer and let it flash longer between coats. Lesinol is known for coverage problems and I've had a few problems often times needing 5-6 coats even with the suggested sealer color. The reduction if only 50% so if you have a quart of paint you add one pint of reducer. What color are you spraying? Is it covering OK? What is the air temp and what temp reducer are you using. Also you should activate your basecoat with a capfull of clear hardener per mixed quart of Basecoat- this will make for better durablity and also repairability. The Lesinol system can be a ***** to repair if you don't activate your base, the reducers are really hot.
Colour is black, after 2 coats coverage was perfect on some of the other panels I did. I think I will reduce the tip size down to 1.2/3 (have to test it all first)! I also like the idea of doing a really fine coat the first pass and then get it tacky...sort of speak and then do a nice coat after that.

Will let you all know in the morning.

Thanks..>Ryan
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