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Old 06-30-2003, 07:11 PM
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Basecoat / Clearcoat question

I have sucessfully painted the necessary 2 coats of basecoat(Nason -Ful-thane) as of last Saturday evening(approx 48hours ago). Everything looks good......no real orange peel, no runs, minimum dust particles.

My questions are as follows:

1. Why is it that they recommend a maximum of 24hours before applying the clearcoat ?

2. What problems, if any, will I run into by waiting longer then 24hours ?

3. Is it necessary to perform a full wet sand of the basecoat if all looks good & there is nothing more then a few dust particles or can I just get rid of the nibs & apply the clear coats?

Thanks

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Old 06-30-2003, 10:42 PM
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Normally you shoot the clear as soon as the base flashes,30 min -1hr. if longer than 12 hr. you must sand and recoat I`m not familer with that brand(.research it)

If you wait to long you have to sand it lightly,but some bases can`t be sanded . You may have to recoat with base. Normally
you can just sand the dust and blems out and shoot the clear.

HTH-Good Luck;

Troy;
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Old 07-01-2003, 05:50 AM
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Troy,

Thanks for your response........I plan on performing a light sand & shooting the clear coats.

I'll keep you posted on the results.

Tim
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:37 AM
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My understanding is that they design the paint system to clear coat the base coat in a time window when the latter is still uncured and will chemically bond to the clear. After that time window, the base has cured too much to chemically bond to the clear so you must wait until it totally cures so you can sand it to provide a mechanical bond to the clear. If you don't sand it pretty well (scuff it all over, but don't go deep), I think you stand a chance of the clear not sticking very well and lifting later.

The above may be TOTALLY specualtion but I think I read it somewhere. Hopefully not in a rod magazine which would mean it is totally bogus!
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:56 AM
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Willys is correct. Today’s paints are designed to chemically bond to each other. With each paint there is a "P" sheet, which will tell you what it is compatible with, what reducers or hardeners to use based on temperature, what air pressure to use, it's mixing ratios, etc, etc.

You need to follow the "P" sheet to keep from having a real mess later. Some paint will react with different brands of primer and some will not cure properly if not mixed exactly right and if you use the wrong reducer for the temperature you’re spraying in then very bad things can happen.

Bottom line is the best way to fix your problem is to scuff the entire surface and re-shoot a coat of base. Then wait the proper time (according to the "P" sheet) and then shoot the clear.

Painting a car used to be considered easy. Back it into the driveway and shoot a few coats of lacquer. Not so any more. Modern BC/CC systems contain ISO's that can kill you if proper breathing precautions aren't followed. It's no longer coat the surface and wait for it to dry. It's waiting for the proper chemical reaction to take place. The paint really doesn’t dry, it hardens.

Good luck.


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Old 07-01-2003, 03:04 PM
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Thanks again for all the responses.......Since the car is small enough & I still have more then enough basecoat. It probably makes the most sense to do a more thorough wet color sand & re-apply the basecoat.

Oh well.....another lesson learned. Could have been worse I suppose.

Thanks,
Tim G.
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Old 07-01-2003, 03:41 PM
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As has been stated you have to get in that time window to get a good bond.

When BC CC first came out, I did a car with graphics,(5 colors)
had to long of a dry time, and the clear peeled in about one year.
The factory rep came to my shop and spent two days playing with graphics, clears and dry time. Now I shoot the base,let it flash then shoot enough clear to flow. Sand lightly, then do the graphics,or stripes,then wet sand the whole thing(very light on some colors)And shoot three more coats (avg)of clear.wet sand again and buff

Ofcourse this is not the every day paint job. Good luck HTH;

Troy;
69s forever;
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Old 07-01-2003, 04:17 PM
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Welcome to the Hotrodders Bulletin Board MG_Man . There is a Paint Characteristics chart by one of our members (Halloweenking) in the Body-Exterior: technical data section of the Hotrodders Knowledge Base that might interest you. I know you're not using PPG paint, but we also have a link to some downloadable PPG P-sheets if you want to check out a few examples.
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Old 07-13-2003, 09:06 AM
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When I was painting my jetboat with bc/cc, I had some down time between the base, the stripes and then the clear. The supplier gave me some softner that I shot over the colors before I put on the clear. Had the boat for two years in the Phoenix sun and never saw a problem.

Craig

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