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Old 09-26-2012, 10:15 AM
tech69 tech69 is offline
put up or shut up

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Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
So heres my question....
1) what are the advantages to activating the base when it drys fast without it????
occationally I need to sand my base from dirt or whatnot but its hard to do because it clogs the paper so quick even after it sits overnite
2) if I activated the base would it sand better?
3) is basemaker (chromabase) a reducer??? and can it be used to reduce other bases? I know other reducers shouldnt be used with chromabase. Right?
4) will activating work on ALL bases ????

Barry ,Using your clear made me LOOK like a better painter but talking to you and just knowing you has actually MADE me a better painter.....
DAM YOU...Now I'll never get to be a dentist..
Mike, you are not ignorant, I had a call the other day from a guy and his paint jobber said, never activate base! The guy called me and I had a copy of that guys warranty for "certified shops" and it said "BASE MUST BE ACTIVATED FOR THIS WARRANTY"
Mike you can only know what the jobber tells you and most you can take with a grain of salt.

A little history how this started. Knowledge is king.
GM back in late 80's or early 90's for $250,000 GM would approve a basecoat system for their warranty work.
Well the majors all failed the first test and the first and only one to pass the second time was BASF, BECAUSE, they activated their basecoat-That was a new one, the others followed and also passed.

Activation, totally changes the base as most good bases have a certain amount of polyol in them that is reactive to the ISO but not a lot, so you don't want to over activate.
Most bases, will handle two ounces of activator per mixed quart, some like Spies, Glasurit and SPI will handle up to 4oz but a little makes such a big difference all you need to do is use 1 oz per mixed quart as a standard and that way there is no risk of over activating witch will cause the base to stay gummy.

Here are the benefits.
Better adhesion from base to sealer or primer.
Base may or may not sand better, depend on type of CAB's used to Make base.
Base will be stronger.
Base will be less likely to wrinkle if you need to get back into it.
Clear will stick better to base.
Base open time before clearing will expand.
Base will have better holdout from UV because of the ISO.
Less likely to stone chip.

Your choice, buy the diluted activator the paint company sells for easy measuring or use ANY clearcoat urethane activator at 1oz per mixed quart.

EVERY warranty of the major high end company's for their certified shops, they all say to get the warranty you must activate.

ANY job you need to live with you should activate, it costs you almost NOTHING. It is also a good way to use up old activator, I did painting around the 4th of July, lowest day was 101 and I used up my fast activator in the base, you are using such a small amount it makes no different the speed.[/QUOTE]

Awesome post, and you are right! I'd also like to state I-Car also thinks your way. I'll have to remember, as you said, 1oz for each quart. I'll use that ratio for my car when it comes time to paint.
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