Originally Posted by tech69
yes I know, but they also say base coat is better with hardener, and yes I've been to the classes you speak of. I'm platinum certified at paint and soon body. I'm not here to say who's right and who's wrong or get in a pissing match, in fact, I already agreed to your notion that you stick to the manufacturers suggestion in a post earlier. Everyone is right to some degree in this thread. You don't always solve paint issues with your first guess and every wrong answer leads you closer to the culprit thru process of elimination. It could or could not be crossing product lines, but I do know crossing product lines can be done at times, and that also it can't. It just depends on the combination of products. The question is, has this combination proved to work on numerous occasions? Is just one area affected or the whole paint job? That will give you a good clue.
To be honest, I think we need to go off more clues and details to be of any more help to this fella. I think it's pretty common sense to everybody to follow the tech sheets but there's a lot of respected guys out there who cross product lines all the time. In a nutshell, I don't think any of us know enough about the paint session that led to this to automatically declare the problem is mixing product lines. It's kind of premature at the moment, for me at least, to feel confident that the problem is from mixing products. Everyone is entitled to their opinions though. How bout we get every last detail to went on including temps of spray time/cure time, even to how many flies were in the room...just detail.
I have never
said, not one single time
that the hardener in the base had anything to do with this. I simply said FOLLOW THE TECH SHEETS
as I always do. As I said to Barry, when you tell people to go out of the tech sheets and mix products it opens the door for craziness which is exactly why manufacturers are very clear on stuff like this. The problem is most likely as discussed, the wax and grease remover, or the primer being "sealed". We may never know in this case.
Of course there are all kinds of times when you can, hell, there are many products that are made in one factory and labels from a number of different distributors are put on them thus making them "different brands" when in fact they are exactly the same. Or "toll manufactured" where it's raw form is made by one company and then modified by the end companies that market it. So there are times when products could
be interchanged. It's just best to follow the tech sheets and that is the recommendation I make and want to make clear to all who read on these forums. You stated that ICAR says use it I just wanted to make clear to all those who just read that this is only half the truth. They say to use it it's recommended by the manufacturer
I did NOT post my last post to argue, I posted it to make sure all who read this have the facts. Being you have been to all the ICAR class's you certainly would agree that is what they say, so there is no argument.