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-   -   Basecoat Question (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basecoat-question-134411.html)

S10xGN 03-02-2008 10:10 AM

Basecoat Question
 
Hi All,

I was looking into having my '72 Maverick repainted in 2004 Ford "Sonic Blue Pearl", but our local paint supply (Tasco) wants $92.00 per pint for the basecoat in DBC.

I found a similar color in "Hot Rod Flatz" single stage urethane for $140.00 per gallon and was wondering if that could be cleared over with a quality high gloss clear?

Thanks!

Russ

troy norrad 03-02-2008 11:18 AM

RE:Basecoat Question
 
Hi with single stage urethane, you can get the clear add in or put it on yourself after, just stay with the same brand name. TROY P.S just google it for info

STATUTORY GRAPE 03-02-2008 06:43 PM

You could try the priceline for Shopline (PPG's cheaper line) in a 2 stage.

302 Z28 03-02-2008 07:03 PM

Try Diamond paint supply in Beaumont, behind the Budget rent car place off 11th.

Vince

jcclark 03-03-2008 05:56 AM

Single stage urethane can most certainly be cleared over.
It's done all the time and my preferred way.
Afterall, what is clear? it's urethane, the same type of paint,
just without the pigment (color).
It's a very strong durable way to paint at a lot less costs of most basecoats.
And most will agree that SS urethane will actually give you deeper
more intense color.
And if you do get your clear to thin after buffing,
(loosing the UV protection)
or chip the clear off in the future,
the urethane will hold up just fine. :pimp:

lets cut it up 03-03-2008 10:25 AM

If you decide to use SS just remember that you cannot sand and buff out imperfections without marring the flakes if it is metallic or pearl and it will require some experience so it wont streak when you spray it. I would have to suggest BC/CC for this type of color. You could go with a cheaper line of PPG and get good results. Paint is just plain expensive now. And it is only going to get worse.

jcclark 03-03-2008 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lets cut it up
If you decide to use SS just remember that you cannot sand and buff out imperfections without marring the flakes if it is metallic or pearl and it will require some experience so it wont streak when you spray it. .

All the more reason to clear coat it! :pimp:

S10xGN 03-03-2008 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcclark
All the more reason to clear coat it! :pimp:

Exactly what we're wanting to do. I just bought a quart "kit" of Hot Rod Flat brand Daytona Blue Metallic with activator and reducer for $42.00. We are gonna try spraying this as a "basecoat" then clearing over it with a high quality clear then buff it out just as you would a normal BC/CC application. If it works, you can't beat the price, $160.00 per gallon vs. $750.00 per gallon for the PPG.

Russ

jcclark 03-04-2008 06:11 AM

Kirker has some great urethanes for under $100.00 a gallon
includeing activator

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Kirk...urethanes.html

It's pretty good stuff, I used it on my car and clearcoated it

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...C/DSC04032.jpg

S10xGN 03-04-2008 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcclark
It's pretty good stuff, I used it on my car and clearcoated it

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...C/DSC04032.jpg

Nice! How long should I wait for the SS to cure out before clearing it? I don't want to have to do anything but tack it off before clear coating, since the SS is a metallic. I guess even light sanding nibs is out?

Thanks!

Russ

lets cut it up 03-04-2008 07:53 AM

You need to make sure that flatz can be cleared. I would stick with base coat on this. You are making this very complicated by trying to clear single stage(if i remember from the ol days you had to wait like 3 hours before clear coat) . Single stage cannot be sanded if it has metallic in it. And if you clear it the imperfections will still be in the single stage color coats. There are some good but cheap base coat systems out there. Why not just try base coat. I you "cocktail" a paint system like your trying to do the stability and longevity will be in question if you get it to work at all without a major chemical blow up.

jcclark 03-04-2008 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lets cut it up
Single stage cannot be sanded if it has metallic in it. And if you clear it the imperfections will still be in the single stage color coats. .

That's why I clearcoat it. So I can buff it out.
Why use single stage? Why not!
It's cheaper, gives better color depth, and is much stronger than
basecoat.
It's basically the same as clearcoat, a urethane.
And even if you buff your clear to thin for proper UV protection
it'll still hold up. The urethane color will hold, even without the clear
on top, unlike a basecoat. It's just more durable.
Only downside of urethane is it is a little harder to spray,
and you should wait longer before clearing, 3 hrs is recommended.
The Kirker urethane says not to wait more than 24 hrs.
I like to wait overnight.
But urethane has many pluses over basecoat, besides cost. :pimp:

lets cut it up 03-04-2008 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcclark
That's why I clearcoat it. So I can buff it out.
Why use single stage? Why not!
It's cheaper, gives better color depth, and is much stronger than
base coat.
It's basically the same as clearcoat, a urethane.
And even if you buff your clear to thin for proper UV protection
it'll still hold up. The urethane color will hold, even without the clear
on top, unlike a base coat. It's just more durable.
Only downside of urethane is it is a little harder to spray,
and you should wait longer before clearing, 3 hrs is recommended.
The Kirker urethane says not to wait more than 24 hrs.
I like to wait overnight.
But urethane has many pluses over basecoat, besides cost. :pimp:



If what you say is true then we would all be using Single Stage. But I am not going to get into a pissing contest with you. You want Single Stage then use it. My Point IS if you have trash in the color how are you going to get it out????? If you clear it you will bury it and it is there forever whether you buff or not!!! So if you cant sand it without messing it up and if you clear it to buff thus burying the imperfection then what....A shinny buffed paint job with magnified trash and what not. Oh in case your wondering I do this for a living so I didn't start painting yesterday. I am just trying to save you some trouble. Just my opinion of course as I don't know every thing. Tim

jcclark 03-04-2008 11:08 AM

I agree with everything you said.
But single stage can be repaired just like basecoat, you just have to wait
a little longer, 30 to 60 min usually.
It's a lot faster drying than enamel, don't compare to that,
they may both be single stage paints but they are totally different.
Urethane sets up hard as a rock, very quickly.
I paint in a garage and dirt is always a problem,
I can't use a paint I can't repair.

I would never argue that base coat is not easier, for sure it is,
and all the collision repairs I do I use a name brand base coat, Chromabase.
I would never use urethane for a repair.
And for any newbies I would recommend base because of it's easyness,
and being more foolproof.
But.............
That's not the topic here!
He's asking if he can clear coat urethane.
So that's what I'm answering. :pimp:

lets cut it up 03-04-2008 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcclark
I agree with everything you said.
But single stage can be repaired just like base coat, you just have to wait
a little longer, 30 to 60 min usually.
It's a lot faster drying than enamel, don't compare to that,
they may both be single stage paints but they are totally different.
Urethane sets up hard as a rock, very quickly.
I paint in a garage and dirt is always a problem,
I can't use a paint I can't repair.

I would never argue that base coat is not easier, for sure it is,
and all the collision repairs I do I use a name brand base coat, Chromabase.
I would never use urethane for a repair.
And for any newbies I would recommend base because of it's easyness,
and being more foolproof.
But.............
That's not the topic here!
He's asking if he can clear coat urethane.
So that's what I'm answering. :pimp:



I understand what your answering and saying...yes you can clear Single stage, but why would anybody want to jump from base coat straight to clearing a single stage . I feel that is old tech and so much more work to do than base coat. Don't get me wrong I love ss when I am shoot a non metallic or pearl, But He was asking about one of the most expensive base-coats out there. I my honest opinion wouldn't it be easier to research that color in a cheaper base coat system. He would come out better in the end in my opinion especially if he is painting in a home made both like we all have to do from time to time.


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