Basic fuse block rewiring - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2005, 05:55 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Basic fuse block rewiring

Iím looking for ideas and input in rewiring my car. Nope, its not a hodrod. It will be a track car ( so there are actually very few features I need to keep. Itís a í95 Firebird.
I have two main wiring circuits the engine harness and the interior harness. I think I have figured out what I will do with the engine harness, itís the interior that Iím wondering about.
I plan on keeping
rear brake lights only (no other lights)
Windshield wipers
Stock gauge cluster for speedo, tach, ammeter, and oil pressure

I plan on removing most everything else
Windows, lights, ABS, radio, locks,
Ignition switch (factory), ignition cylinder,
Wiper/CC stalk, etc.

I would like to install
A switch for Ignition (IGN)
Switch for wipers
Starter button
Fuel pump
Fuse blocks (for above and other various items)

The fuse blocks would have fuses for everthing I wire into them
(wipers, rear lights, gauge cluster, additional gauges, PCM power, etc). I plan on one being hot at all times, and one hot on ignition (turned on by IGN switch).
Do I need to use a relay for this fuse block or can I wire the power feed directly to the fuse block through the IGN switch? Is that too much current for the IGN switch? I would think the brake lights and wiper motor would draw too much current for the IGN switch. I suppose I could have a different Ďruní switch with a relay for the hot on ignition fuse block and instead wire the ignition to the hot at all times fuse block but use a different switch.

Removing the steering column parts will require me to use a different multi way switch or potentiometer for the wipers. I want to use my current headlight switch for the wiper switch after I gut the lights. Would this work? Is this a simple 3 position potentiometer? I expect Iíd have to back probe to find out which wires to use as. Maybe use just the dimmer switch?

Thanks,
Morgan

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2005, 07:47 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Basic Bare Bones Wiring

Doc here,

Thanks for the Complete info it really helps!

First, what kind of track racing are you planning on doing? Different aspects of racing require Different rules..check to see what the rules say before you start, and make sure you can comply.

You will need (since almost all forms of racing require this) a Battery disconnect switch, located at or very near the battery. just run the positive cable to the high side of the switch, and the Vehicle to the switched side.

From there you will need the heavy cable going to the starter, and 3 fusible links..one for the Ignition circuit, one for the Alternator circuit, and one for the "Hot At all times" circuit.

Feed your Ignition main power from the fuse link (usually 10 gauge pink or purple). From the "ON" side of the switch, run switch power to a properly sized , Buss side of a fuse buss, from that same side, run power for the Coil or HEI whatever you happen to be using..so that it has power whenever you have the key on..(or you COULD fuse it..but for racing I donno...hate to pop a fuse on a random spur or spike while racing and have to sit on the track with a no spark condition..)

(also if required you may want to add a quick disconnect plug on the steering wheel, which will consist of 2- 1/4 inch mono male and female phone plug, and 2 YoYo cords,like a guitar amp wire, with shorted male plug on one end, and the rest of the cord to will attach to your fire-suit.)This way if you are thrown out of the vehicle..the engine will stop running.(usually required.)

Run the "S" side of the Ignition (usually the brown or white wire ) to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. From there, find the "I" terminal, (secondary Ignition) and run it to the ignition resistor..or Coil power. This should give you a fully functioning start system.

Are you using a one wire Alternator? If so, run main power back to your fusible link provided for that at the battery buss, otherwise leave the other two wires at the alternator in tact and run main power back to the buss..This should give you a fully functioning charge system..with link protection.

Next run your "I" terminals of all the gauges you intend to use to the low (fused side) of the Ignition Buss. Properly mark and fuse those.

Are your Wipers Electronically switched?

you need to determine that..

older General Mystery cars used Ground to switch the speed function at the wiper motor / washer If you have one of these, the motor will be wired "Hot in Run at all times" and have 3 switchable grounds..

If you have one of these, all you need is a 3 position Switch of comparable current handling capabilities to control it...the head light-switch won't work...(unless you ground one side of it, and use only high speed)

The dimmer rheostat may be geared for electronic dimming (Darlington pair transistors) in any case would probably burn it out attempting to speed control a motor with it.

If it's electronic, you need to determine the type of speed switching, (power or Ground) and install a comparable switch to handle that. (center wiper to either ground or power, terminals 1, 2,and 3 out to the circuit card.) Run the Power wire back to your "Ign" fuse buss and mark and properly fuse it.

Locate your PCM power wire and run that to your Ignition terminal and properly mark and fuse that...Then isolate the memory wire, and run that to your "Hot at all times " buss, properly fuse and mark it.

Set up your Switch panel (I assume you already have a layout plan for this) install your wiper fuel pump switch and any other Variable you may require here, run each (high side ) to a proper fuse on the "Ign" Buss, and mark accordingly..

For your fuel pump, I assume your using a high volume pump..(which means high current) use a relay, run your control circuit to your switch at your switch panel..then using 10 gauge wire, wire the contacts from the "Hot at all times" buss, with a proper fuse, then the other side to the pump. (you might want to consider putting it on the Ignition side, using the switch for bypass only, to prevent unnecessary troubleshooting on start up because the switch is off) just a thought...but it has happened to me before...

As for the brake lights, I would wire them "HOT at all times" through the hot buss and a proper fuse...for two good reasons...Pushing or towing...or anything that might require movement of the vehicle with the engine off...Simply run a proper gauge wire from your "hot at all times" fuse buss, to one side of the brake light switch, the other side will remain the same.

You CAN run relays For the Fuse busses, and it certainly will deliver more current to the buss..but since your running Virtually no Current at the busses, If the buss size is properly gauged, you should have no problem running without one..The Ignition Switch in stock configuration handles more current than your planning to run through it..

However, Fire safety and more current delivered will result in using a relay.

Good safe rule of thumb..Use a Relay on anything over 20 amps, any motor,

(rotor locks can cause major Multiples of current draw over stock run draw..IE a motor drawing 30 amps, free wheeling then gets the rotor stuck, like a plastic bag in a fan..might well draw 60 or 80 amps to try to overcome the lock.resulting in a burned up harness or worse...)

And any run of extended length of wire..you will deliver more source current to the device and generate less heat in the wire...AND anything you just don't feel right about drawing a load! Never hurts to overprotect!

I answered your post here doing this in my mind,not on paper..so if it's a bit scattered , or I missed or omitted something, sorry 'bout that..just trying to lay down the basics..just ask again!

You do know painless and EZ make "Bare Bones" Harnesses to achieve the same thing your trying to do for like under $200?? You might want to consider that road and add in the racing specialty's to that..just a thought...

Hope that gives you some basic direction..

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2005, 07:46 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Doc, Thanks for the reply. Very informative. It is more or less what I want to do but with the details I need.

I'm building a 'road race' car, not a drag racer. The rules are pretty much open on wiring except for the requirement of a main switch which includes a secondary switch for the alternator. I'm going to start pruning the harness very soon. With a little more planning I'm going to tackle the rest of the wiring, adding fuse blocks, ign switch, etc as well as finish gutting the interior this month.

I'm not sure if my wipers are electonically switched or not, I'll have to go back and look at the factory service manual. I've beens studying those pretty good. Two big issues with this car is that its an LT1 w/ an opti spark and it has VATS. I already have a module to simulate the fuel enable signal to the PCM but its not installed yet.

Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Electrical posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
big block or small block chevy 69YENKONOVA Engine 81 05-13-2010 08:26 AM
this is a saver.... GM build codes TooMany2count General Rodding Tech 24 11-23-2009 10:36 AM
looking for a good after market 400 sbc block 406 ss monte Engine 4 06-13-2004 09:54 AM
small block vs big block JUSTINH Engine 28 02-17-2003 05:37 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.