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Old 09-24-2005, 08:28 AM
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Basic wiring diagram

All I am needing is a basic wiring diagram for an automobile. I am building a 41 Chev sedan and just want to get it running enough to drive around the area and do some preliminary wiring before doing a bang up job with a prefab. wiring harness. Can anyone direct me to such a drawing??? Would you send it to my email address of chucklexie@juno.com

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Old 09-24-2005, 05:42 PM
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Here are several. They are old so by definition they are simple!
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Old 09-24-2005, 06:08 PM
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Thanks

What I am wanting is a modern day street rod wiring, including alternator, neutral switch, etc. Not vintage wiring, but thanks for the schematics.
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Old 09-25-2005, 03:32 AM
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more info..

Doc here,

You need to include more info in this type of endeavor...

Is the engine Fuel infected or carb? Do you have a Computer you need to marry into a harness to make the engine run? Is the engine points or HEI or coil packs? What if anything exists on the body as far as a fuse panel? has the body been upgraded for 12 volts or is it still 6 volts..?

THEN you need to sit down and see what circuits you actually need.. and do a wire count ..

The Idea of a "No Frills " harness may sound good, BUT, even at that, UNLESS you already have all the right stuff or most of it...It Will cost you MORE (about double) to build than a "No frills " Painless harness ($199.00)...and Painless will take a weekend to install , build your own will average a month or more and troubleshoot time, depending on your skill level and tools..

You will need bare bones,

Lighting system (a lot of wire!)
Senders : Oil, Temp, Tach, Fuel, Amp or Battery Voltage.
Charging system.
Starting system.
Ignition system,
Instrumentation.
Dimmer system.
Back up lights and position switch.
Neutral safety switch AT/MT and Clutch override MT
Fuse buss
Fuse links


Dollar and time wise I think you'd be better with the No Frills" painless then trying to do it yourself..at like $199.00 plus maybe 2 days labor ...Unless you plan on building 2 0r 3 of these a year, the cost is not justified...

If you still want to build it yourself..post back with the above info, I have a schematic for each system I will post back to you..

Doc
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:17 AM
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Your are right "sorta"

Thanks for the well done input. I do have a carburator engine and 700R4, with Mustang II front end, Tilt, Pwr. R/P. I also have a complete wiring harness for the future. My current objective is to be able to drive the car from the Shed or barn (over there in gravel) to the garage where the cement slab is (cool in summer and warm in winter) to do stuff. Sanding, plumbing, finish work, under car work, rust patching, etc. When all the little stuff is done, I will take engine and transmission out and paint firewall. Fender wells etc. Then want to install (after trim painting) wireing. I know, the way to do it is OFF FRAME, but not all of us have a 1500 sq. Ft. heated and cooled work shop to spare. So I am having to share time with our cars in the Garage. Do a lot of crawling around in the gravel. Not that bad, but??? Too old to work towards the future, I am living my future right now. Found out that if I were ever going to realize this dream I had better get busy, time ran out. Slow learner!!!! I have no idea how to hook up all the Transmission linkage and plumbing (want it on the column) not the floor. Nudder subject, Huh???
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:37 AM
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Me again

It is HEI in a box, Distributor Accel p/n 59107 and HEI coil 140003 if any of that helps. All in the box.
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Old 09-25-2005, 06:57 PM
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Ok...

Doc here,

If your just going to move it from one spot on your property to another..really about all you need it the start system...



Do you want the charge system too? It's not really needed for small moves like that..and depends on 1 or 3 wire system and internal/external regulator too..



You also want to hook up Oil and Water Temp at minimum..need to know what you have for those to help...Basically they are 3 terminal (the stock and good aftermarkets) marked "S" , "G", and "I"..I" is power, switch,ignition.."G" is ground.."S" is sender..

Hope that gets you started..

let me know what else ya need!

Doc
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Old 09-25-2005, 11:15 PM
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:04 AM
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Great~~But?

Hey, I appreciate that, I knew there were a couple of things I was either missing or not sure <--lotta that stuff
(1) What is a fusable link, and what is it for?
(2) In your charging ckt drawing you have the start and run connectors Hard wired and shorted together. I don't think that is Kosier, is it? It would seem to me that the started would just keep cranking once the ignition was returned to run??? Or I have not come across a switch with two run's and two starts.
(3) Is the started relay and started solenoid the same thing from one diagram to the other?
(4) Should the Ign. coil (yel) connection be tied to the run terminal on ign. switch On the first drawing? Is that to be 12 volts when in run position. That is the only way I can see power getting to coil. It just seems to be hanging out there.

Darn good idea to have the engine vital signs showing their status. Had not given that anythought. I will plumb up a oil pressure, but not sure of where to put the water temp sensor or (?) on 350 Chev. engine. Don't know if it makes any difference but just crossed my mind that I am using fuel injected heads.
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:52 AM
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Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired
Hey, I appreciate that, I knew there were a couple of things I was either missing or not sure <--lotta that stuff
(1) What is a fusable link, and what is it for?
=======================================

Fuse links...Most important item in the street rod..or any car...It a link between a 10 gauge wire and 2 or 3 smaller gauge wires that feed the vehicle fuse buss and the alternator, also a third can be added for non switched buss, and I advocate it..The fuse link handles all the high current load from the car unlike a fuse will not pop right off the bat..because it does it's job by melting..
usually hooks up at the main big bolt at the starter solenoid and the buss and vehicle power source wires...To run without them is courting the loss of your rod to fire..should you suffer a catastrophic short..



================================================
(2) In your charging ckt drawing you have the start and run connectors Hard wired and shorted together. I don't think that is Kosier, is it? It would seem to me that the started would just keep cranking once the ignition was returned to run??? Or I have not come across a switch with two run's and two starts.

I think you are confusing the switch internal mechanical for wires...The switch is a single throw double throw...meaning there are two sets of contacts INSIDE the switch and a mechanical rod between them so you only make one throw for four wire connections.

================================================
(3) Is the started relay and started solenoid the same thing from one diagram to the other?

For GM and most apps , yes..One possible exception is the later model years may not have the "R" or "I" terminal on them..with the advent of HEI a secondary Ignition was not necessary as well as the ballast resistor on the secondary/primary side..but all else remains the same...

================================================
(4) Should the Ign. coil (yel) connection be tied to the run terminal on ign. switch On the first drawing? Is that to be 12 volts when in run position. That is the only way I can see power getting to coil. It just seems to be hanging out there.

That is correct with some qualification...Do you have HEI or points? If you have points you will need a ballast resistor for the coil...If you have an HEI you will not need the resistor...ALSO wire the "Hot AT all times" From the ignition switch (the wire that provides power to the switch..) Directly to a fuse link at the starter , and a secondary Ignition will not be required (to provide power during cranking cycles..why the second set of contacts in the switch..)

==================================================

Darn good idea to have the engine vital signs showing their status. Had not given that anythought. I will plumb up a oil pressure, but not sure of where to put the water temp sensor or (?) on 350 Chev. engine. Don't know if it makes any difference but just crossed my mind that I am using fuel injected heads.
================================================
Look on the right head, should be a sender or a plugged hole for one..this is the BEST place...However you should have and can install it at the manifold (or goose-neck inlet, whatever your engine has for location) and it will work fine...

Doc
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