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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2013, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
John, yes, if you did this it would bend the hinge pushing the front of the door OUT.

Brian
Cool. Do me a favor and look at my thread "49-54 Gm floor pan construction". Tell me what you think.

Thanks
John

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 03:34 PM
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John, on your 55 (this is a passenger car, the truck is the same I believe) there are bolts at the back of the hinge (see photo). THOSE are the most important bolts for adjustment in and out at the front of the door. Moving the pivot point of the hinge is what moves the door, on these hinges the pivot point is way up near the front of the hinge where these bolts are!

So moving the front of the hinge in is going get you where you need to be I am thinking.

Brian

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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
John, on your 55 (this is a passenger car, the truck is the same I believe) there are bolts at the back of the hinge (see photo). THOSE are the most important bolts for adjustment in and out at the front of the door. Moving the pivot point of the hinge is what moves the door, on these hinges the pivot point is way up near the front of the hinge where these bolts are!

So moving the front of the hinge in is going get you where you need to be I am thinking.

Brian
Actually I am referring to the 54. It is almost identicle to the 55 and I knew every one would have a mental image of the 55. I have plenty of adjustment fore and aft but it is too tight at the front with it adjusted all the way out. I believe that if I blocked the hinge and forced the door in to spring it that would keep the hinge from traveling so far and effectively cause it to be further out when the door was closed. Basically the same thing as blocking a trunk hinge and forcing the deck lid down to raise it.

John
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:23 PM
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Yep that's right.

Brian
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DerickMoore View Post
The wind caught the door on my 2005 Ford E-350 van, and the configuration is such that after shutting it and discovering it was jammed, I couldn't open it enough to see what got bent.
Hi all, Ron the "Body work isn't my thing." dude. But I'm trying to help out my kid.

As noted, this is one of the few places on the 'net where I found this topis is covered and I'm sure glad it i!. Same issue, and I understand the fix, but how do I get to where I can adjust the hinge when Ican't get the door open without the door leading edge (former aviation dude, sorry) jamming into the 1/4 panel?

TIA.

Ron
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Shiseiji View Post
Hi all, Ron the "Body work isn't my thing." dude. But I'm trying to help out my kid.

As noted, this is one of the few places on the 'net where I found this topis is covered and I'm sure glad it i!. Same issue, and I understand the fix, but how do I get to where I can adjust the hinge when Ican't get the door open without the door leading edge (former aviation dude, sorry) jamming into the 1/4 panel?

TIA.

Ron
You can unbolt the bottom of the fender and pull it out pretty easy. The other thing is to get a thin piece of metal and slip it into the between the fender and door. It's not the "1/4" panel, it's a "Fender", the "1/4" panel is the rear "fender" on a car. On the truck it would be a "bed side". But if you slip a piece of metal between the two you can slide it up into place keeping the door from going on the outside of the fender as you open the door.

That all being said, depending on how bad the door is bent, this may not be an option, that is often a bad sign and that door is bent too much to do anything without serious repairs. The fender is likely also bent in from the door being sprung against it.

I have seen this fender to door problem does't mean serious damage to the hinge area, don't get me wrong. But often depending on how bad they are hitting one an other is a dead give away to how bad the hinges are damaged at the cowl.

I'll try to post a photo today showing what I mean with the piece of metal between them.

Brian
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2013, 08:18 AM
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Thanks Brian and for the education. I volunter teach bicycle maintenance, and tell folks "Ignorance we can fix." You just have to be willing to ask questions. Hope you get a chance to post more, understand if you don't.

Fortuntally after the door was closed and the damage noted, nothing else was done. So so far the fender isn't damaged. Car has corossion issues, I won't be surprised to find this a contribuiting factor. He just moved in with me and has been sitting in the car when he goes to burn one. I suspect he had his feet on it but not quite sure how he managed to push it out. I'll see what I have that will fit in the gap and cushion the fender from the door if we can get it to unlatch. We may be pulling the trim to get past that issue.

Ron

Last edited by Shiseiji; 06-27-2013 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Other thoughts information . . .
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:57 AM
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Thanks Again Brian!

Couldn't get to the fender bolts, but we were able to use rags and large flat tip screwdrivers to ease leading edge of door over fender. After that it was follow the pictures.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:23 PM
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Is it working now?

Brian
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:28 PM
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Oh yes! You were a great help! No confession from son, but I suspect feet on door had a part.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2013, 01:07 PM
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Cool, usually it's a door being opened before the car comes to a stop so it swings out hitting the end of the travel on the hinges.

Brian
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