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Old 02-23-2010, 05:15 PM
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batteries in trunk need starter amperage for fuse

I recently installed two batteries in my trunk and put a 175 amp fuse at the terminal for safety...the car started one time and blew the fuse this was the highest amperage fuse auto zone had does anyone know how much current a starter draws? Its a high torque starter in a 350 .... is there a breaker I can use for this? surely someone else has done this I really don't want to run an unfused wire that length to the starter ,to many things could go wrong....heres the fuse I used 175 amo ,32v
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:46 PM
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The Cadillac Deville/DTS has the battery under the rear seat. I thought the starter cable would be fused and whatever they used might give you a clue. Looked at the wiring diagram on autozone.com online repair info and it doesn't show a fuse on the cable to the starter. Seems like a bad idea not to have one.

Edit: Maybe there's not much point in having a 400-or-so amp fuse.
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:06 PM
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I think that buss fuse was 8.00 I'd like to get a breaker but I think a 250 amp might work I just didnt want to waste money tring differnt ones until I found the right one.they're a little expensive
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:23 PM
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It isn't standard practice to fuse the starter cable, but if you're looking for safety, check out this post:

remote starter solenoid wiring

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Old 02-23-2010, 06:45 PM
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What may be more important is the size of cable and material.

The problem maybe in the size of the cable you are using and the proper connections to the starter terminal. A clean ground is a neccessity at both ends with a redundant (extra) ground from the block to chassis, chassis to frame and frame to chassis(trunk sheet metal). Stranded copper cable has been the choice of most racers because it can carry more amperage(with less histeresis-that is heat build-up causing less current flow) than the same size wire of aluminum but aluminum is lighter, cheaper and if insulation isn't cut or abraided will do just as good a job as copper but it should be atleast 2.0 for 12' to 16' run. A fuse won't be needed if all connections are clean and your not running in a demolition derby but a shut off switch mounted outside the car as close to the battery as possible(below deck lid)is reccomended and required at most drag race tracks. QUOTE=deadbodyman]I recently installed two batteries in my trunk and put a 175 amp fuse at the terminal for safety...the car started one time and blew the fuse this was the highest amperage fuse auto zone had does anyone know how much current a starter draws? Its a high torque starter in a 350 .... is there a breaker I can use for this? surely someone else has done this I really don't want to run an unfused wire that length to the starter ,to many things could go wrong....heres the fuse I used 175 amo ,32v[/QUOTE]
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:48 PM
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Battery cable size/connections may be the cause

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I think that buss fuse was 8.00 I'd like to get a breaker but I think a 250 amp might work I just didnt want to waste money tring differnt ones until I found the right one.they're a little expensive
The problem maybe in the size of the cable you are using and the proper connections to the starter terminal. A clean ground is a neccessity at both ends with a redundant (extra) ground from the block to chassis, chassis to frame and frame to chassis(trunk sheet metal). Stranded copper cable has been the choice of most racers because it can carry more amperage(with less histeresis-that is heat build-up causing less current flow) than the same size wire of aluminum but aluminum is lighter, cheaper and if insulation isn't cut or abraided will do just as good a job as copper but it should be atleast 2.0 for 12' to 16' run. A fuse won't be needed if all connections are clean and your not running in a demolition derby but a shut off switch mounted outside the car as close to the battery as possible(below deck lid)is reccomended and required at most drag race tracks.
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:02 PM
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You may have an issue finding something that will hold up to that load. The problem with starters is that the initial load (inrush current) is high compared to the actual cranking amperage. I dont think I have ever seen a main battery cable fused to be honest. You concerns are valid and special precautions must be taken to be sure the positive cable is heavy enough and has good insulation.
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe G
It isn't standard practice to fuse the starter cable, but if you're looking for safety, check out this post:

remote starter solenoid wiring

Now THAT makes sense I ran braded welding cable It works great but its scary having a hot wire that long ,the ford solinoid is perfect...thanks guys
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:28 PM
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I have never put a fuse on the main hot cable..And never needed one,,
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