[joeford]

Anyone out there with a 35 to 40 model street rod who has installed a drop down battery box on the frame? I have a 36 Ford Coupe on a TCI frame and have a couple of questions for anyone with some experience in this area. The TCI chassis is 5-1/2 inches tall at about mid point....pretty much directly under the passenger foot area. The battery box is 9-1/2 inches tall. This means it will extend below the frame about 4 inches. The chassis is currently about 16 inches from the top of the chassis to the ground, which leaves about 5-1/2 inches clearance on the box. The kicker in these measurements is that I don't have springs in place as I don't have an engine or tranny in place to pull the chassis back to earth.

So, the first question would be for someone with a similar setup....what is your frame clearance at mid point of the chassis?

Anyone ever done a similar install with this battery box???....(see link below)

While the box drops down, it does not appear to drop far enough below the chassis to actually get the battery out. The box is made such that it will drop completely out if necessary, but it would require jacking the car up to clear the chassis.

Again, anyone out there who has installed a drop down on a similar chassis, your experience will be greatly appreciated...(see journal for pic of chassis) Thanks in advance...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GmSear...itleDescr=True

[Deuce]

Some of the early 50's Chevrolet trucks had a battery box ... under the rubber mat on the passengers side. I duplicated this on the 40 Ford coupe my brother owned. Worked out slick.



In fact ... so slick that I did the same thing to my 32 Ford 3W project. I did move it back a little so the battery is under the seat.



I used a group 24 Optima battery ... and it does NOT hang down below the frame rail.



I have a metal cover for the box ... the exhaust is Jet-Hot coated and so is the battery box.

IF ... I need to change the battery or access it for any reason ... I just lift the bottom seat cushion out ... and remove the adjuster rod ... all of about 30 seconds work. Then the 6 screws that hold down the cover.

IMHO ... that's a LOT better than jacking up the car, lying on the ground and wrestling with a battery.

Your results may vary ...

[joeford]

A picture is indeed worth the 1,000 words....So another words by accessing through the floor board, you able to raise the battery such that the bottom of the battery is above the frame rail.

Hummmm....I was trying to keep access out of the interior, but your approach may be the most practical.

I assume you have a metal cover. Thanks....

[Deuce]

My Optima Red Top battery is installed straight up ... like a conventional battery but I have been told that they can be laid on their side ... for increased ground clearance ..

I have a metal cover ... for the box. The lid is also insulated ... with a heavy plastic panel ( 1/8th thick ) to prevent electrical shortage because I have a top post battery.

[joeford]

I'm considering a bench seat from Wise Guys, so I've emailed them about the access. If it works out I'll use your approach as it really makes sense to approach it from the top...Thanks

ps...Did you fabricate your battery box or is there one you recommend?

[40 Ford Guy]

I have an added frame cross member added to accomodate the upper shock mounts on my 40 pu, I made from 1 x 2 steel tube stock, and attatched the Speedway battery box to it. I made sure the pickup box cross members were clear I'm using an Optima battery, which can be removed with the box lowered. I still have to jack the truck to get under , but it's out of the way and beats having a hatch in the bed of the pickup. I hope this helps........
JON

[40 Ford Guy]

Ps; My frame is "mostly stock" 40, so my idea may or may not fit up with some aftermarket products.

JON

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by joeford

ps...Did you fabricate your battery box or is there one you recommend?

Fabricated ... I have a friend with a shear and a brake ...

The four sides are folded ... like a card board box ( only one welded seam ) and the bottom welded in ... but has 4 sides folded up ... to fit snug in the square box ... and then welded .

[joeford]

Wise Guy's advises the bench seat for the 36 For does not lift up as does their replacement for the older seats.....So, it looks like I'll have to find an alternative.....

[dinger]

I'm curious, and also building a 36. Is there a reaon why you don't go to the trunk? Dan

[Deuce]

You need to get the battery as close to the front of the vehicle ... IMHO

That being said ... the battery died in my wife's Cadillac Sedan DeVille the other day and I had to HUNT for the battery ... It was under the back seat ... from Cadillac.

I would never put a battery in the truck of a 32 ... they take up way too much room. 32's have a real small trunk.

35 up Fords do have more room.

[DanTwoLakes]

Originally Posted by joeford

I'm considering a bench seat from Wise Guys, so I've emailed them about the access.

If you get a modern bench seat that does not have a removable seat cushion, it may make Deuce's idea (which is a fabulous idea, by the way) impractical unless you fabricate a tip mount to gain access to the underside of the seat area.

[joeford]

Dinger: I'm going with a rumble seat rather than trunk and I need the leg room for the mother in law. I have considered locating it in a planned compartment behind the front seat, but really want to save this space as well.

Dantwolakes: As for the tip mount....tell me more.....Got a picture?

[DanTwoLakes]

I don't know if they make a stock tip mount. This may be something you will need to fabricate yourself. It would be hinged in the front or rear, and have a way to lock the other side down until you needed to gain access.

[40 Ford Guy]

Duece, good point !!

Batt cable runs need to be as short as possible, especially if running a big accessory load. Mine is an "old skool basic" rod of the early 40's, so elec wipers, and radio are the extent. My batt to solenoid cable is #0, with the terminals crimped and soldered. I'm running a Flathead, and using a Powermaster geared stsrter to keep the cranking amps as low as possible.

Happy Roddin' ! JON