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Old 06-15-2010, 11:05 AM
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Battery Charge Problem

I have an 82 CJ8 with a rebuilt AMC 360 out of a 1973 Javelin. After I got it I had some electrical issues that prevented it from starting that a local shop "fixed". After various issues over the few months after it was "fixed" I started changing out the ignition system mainly because it had Mallory that I could not get any replacement parts for locally so I decided to go to MSD because I can get parts for those everywhere.

The problem I have is that when the Jeep is running it is not charging the battery enough to crank it after I turn it off again. For example this morning I cranked it up with no problem. Volts read around 13 when it was running. I let it warm up and drove about .5 miles to the store, came back out in about 5 minutes and it would not start, dead battery. I can then put my portable charger on it for about 2 minutes and it cranks. If I put a trickle charger on it, the same thing, it only takes a few minute of charge and it cranks up.

This morning I changed the idle higher to see if it was more of a low RPM thing and then drive it non stop for about 1.5 hours and turned it off, then it would not start. Put the charger on for about 2 to 3 minutes and it fires right up. Meter reads around 13 volts the entire time I am driving.

Battery is brand new Red Top.
Here is what I have changed, I am putting together some diagrams.
Original:
Battery
Ballast Resistor
Mallory Promaster Coil
Mallory Dual Point dist
Tach(mention because it is connected to system)

Current:
Battery
Streetfire CD Ignition
Tach(mention because it is connected to system)
MSD Blaster II Coil
Mallory Unilite Dist(Conversion)

When wiring the Streetfire, the only thing that was not addressed was rewiring the sense wire from the alternator. It had been wired to the ballast resister previously along with the ignition switch. I read all I could find as far as wiring for this engine combo and from what I found I could wire it to the empty post on the starter solenoid. This would "sense" power use when ignition circuit is on and car is running.

So in a nut shell I can start it up first time for the day fine, drive right down the road, come back out and it won't start. Yesterday I drove for about 2 hours straight and shut it off and it would not start. I jumped it drove about another 1.5 hours home, shut it off and it would not start. It sat uncharged over night and fired right up this morning. I was think that new battery was bad but I am not sure now.

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Old 06-15-2010, 08:20 PM
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u need to get the alternator checked. U need closer to 14 volts.. That can't be the problem because cause u should be able to restart it until it starts cranking to slow. . I would triple check my wiring. sounds like something gets hot and will still run but won't start till cooled off.
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:08 PM
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put a better alt on it

if you have any fab skills at all then you could get a normal regular "three" wire alt off a newer vehicle with a more reliable longer lasting alt

i have 14.6 volts on my 91 s-10 4.3L now that i stuck a 2000 ford taurus alt on it a few days ago

its really the best thing i ever did for the truck im so happy i did it. its awesome now, super bright lights and no more 12 volts low system crap, quicker starts, etc
easy to fab another alt on an engine.,

only took 20 minutes to do

make sure its wired correctly

the two larger wires on the alt go to battery full time

the small third wire goes to dash light or guage

very simple easy but ppl still tend to goof this up somehow i have no idea how.

good luck!

Last edited by fast68; 06-17-2010 at 10:17 PM.
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