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Old 12-30-2013, 06:06 PM
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Battery chargers/car starter/booster packs

What do you guys have and how do you like it?
I have older Schumacher manual battery charger. It's alright but I can't jump start car with it. It just charges batteries and I better keep an eye on it cause it won't auto shut off.
Recently bought this booster pack 12 Volt Power Supply and Jump-Start

Today I tried to just start my diesel truck with it (low batteries) Truck just clicked as it usually does with low batteries. I guess not enough amps to start my CTD. I'm probably going to return this booster pack, really want something with more power.
I came across this on ebay though, seems like a good price and supposed to be able to jump start car with it.
New Schumacher Battery Charger Maintainer Starter Tester Car 12 Amp Auto Charge | eBay

Any suggestions/recommendations?

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Old 12-30-2013, 06:58 PM
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i have never had a booster pack
and i have always just had the smaller type chargers
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:11 PM
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For many - I'm not sure if it is ALL or just many of them - disease-els boosting either battery won't do a damn thing - you have to jump or boost BOTH at the same time because it has a 24 volt starter. It electronically switches to 24 volts (puts the 2 batts in series) for starting (while the rest of the system stays as 12 V) and then returns to the 2 batts being in parrallel for charging and running stuff at 12 V.

I managed to leave some stuff on, and flattened things in my D-Max last fall and had to get simultaneous jumps from 2 cars to boost BOTH batteries or nothing would happen.
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:19 PM
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I don't think my truck has 24V charger. Maybe Duramax trucks do
I do know that when grid heaters cycle they take a lot of amps, so they drain batteries if I haven't used truck in a while.
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:35 PM
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No - the charger in my D-Max is 12 Volts - the entire system is 12 volts. The alternator is 12V, all the instruments & lights are 12V.

The starter is 24 Volts.

Nearly all of the larger diesase-els have 24 V starters. Any diesase-el with 2 batteries has most likely got a 24 volt starter.

The batteries charge in parrallel at 12 volts - the whole system is 12 volts.

Except the starter solenoid is designed to engage both batteries in series for 24 volts to the starter motor only.

Your booter pack boosted ONE battery - that gave you a good supply of power AT 12 V! If you boosted BOTH batts (used 2 packs) you would have had a supply of power at the required 24V.

You can't boost ONE battery in a 2-battery system and expect to start.

By the way - I just looked it up - the RAM trucks do use a 24 Volt starter in the Cummins (and 12 Volt alternator - same as D-max )
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:54 PM
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A Battery charger is useless to me when I want to go for a ride in the winter and my vehicles been sitting a month or more so I use a Booster Pak in those situations. It's works like a charm on anything I've ever owned. Not sure about a diesel but I've used mine on many Hi HP, High Compression, Performance Vehicles over the years and it has never not worked immediately for me.

Mine has 500 Cranking Amps. Mobile Power 400 Model #2001
Plus it's an Inverter, Compressor, Light, or emergency power for Computers, Chargers, USB, etc....
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:56 PM
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I have the HF/CenTec booster behind the seat in my daily driver/beater pickup.

It has saved my donkey several times.. Like the time I left the headlites on for 8 hours. Or when the alternator was showing good charge but actually dying. Also I keep a tubeless tire repair kit in the center console. That and the air compressor function on the CenTec saved me twice last year.

Not bad for a $27.00 open box bargain from Harbor freight..

It was also instrumental in starting my emergency generator, just recently. The start battery on the thing is old and the booster box fired the old gasoline generator first thing.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave57210 View Post
No - the charger in my D-Max is 12 Volts - the entire system is 12 volts. The alternator is 12V, all the instruments & lights are 12V.

The starter is 24 Volts.

Nearly all of the larger diesase-els have 24 V starters. Any diesase-el with 2 batteries has most likely got a 24 volt starter.

The batteries charge in parrallel at 12 volts - the whole system is 12 volts.

Except the starter solenoid is designed to engage both batteries in series for 24 volts to the starter motor only.

Your booter pack boosted ONE battery - that gave you a good supply of power AT 12 V! If you boosted BOTH batts (used 2 packs) you would have had a supply of power at the required 24V.

You can't boost ONE battery in a 2-battery system and expect to start.

By the way - I just looked it up - the RAM trucks do use a 24 Volt starter in the Cummins (and 12 Volt alternator - same as D-max )
Interesting...according to parts store its a 12V starter.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:39 PM
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What year is your Cummins/RAM?

When they went to a common rail injection system with electronic FI, they also went to 12 volt system with 24 V starter.

Parts store likely knows it is a 12 V truck and starter part # XXXXX is for that truck, so therefore......, but if you follow the wiring diagram, you'll find there is a relay that brings power from the 2 batts IN SERIES into the starter. It is likley a part of the starter relay system
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:43 PM
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Its 2001.5, pre=common rail
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:52 PM
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Got one of these and it bolted in perfectly right on the battery hold down bracket, hope I won't have anymore dead batteries. I did install a little disconnect on the trickle charger so that I can disconnect it when not plugged in (so it won't draw juice from the batteries)
1.5 Amp Three Stage Onboard Battery Charger/Maintainer
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:31 PM
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Battery pack

I have a battery pack that works great. The first charge should be for 24 hours. I'll put my on charge every so often to keep it fully charged for when I need it.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:57 PM
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I have had several of the battery booster packs and have used them many times with good results(have not used on any diesels)

Two features to look for if you are considering purchasing one is to get one that is designed to plug directly into 120V(using a regular extension cord) and that it can be left plugged in indefinitely.

These seem to be a fairly common features nowdays, but several older ones I have had required a separate charger(which can get lost) and required that you not leave it plugged in for extended periods of time(which could damage the booster pack)
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