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Old 01-08-2012, 08:18 PM
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Battery isolator

Has anyone made up their own master switch/battery isolator using a latching solenoid? There are several kits on the market, but it looks like they all use a 100-110 amp Cole-Hersee or Ametek solenoid, either a continuous duty or latching and most are well over $100 for 50-55 bucks worth of parts, many of which I already have. I want to use the latching version as it draws no current after it's activated where the continuous version will.

Any cautions or good words/diagrams etc before I order a solenoid in the next day or so?

Dave W

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Old 01-09-2012, 06:09 AM
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Must have been too late/too early
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:26 AM
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solenoid

never been down this road so i may be NO help... but what about a ford starter sol ??? what ever sol u use its gotta be energized by power by the key... think'n outloud...
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
never been down this road so i may be NO help... but what about a ford starter sol ??? what ever sol u use its gotta be energized by power by the key... think'n outloud...
Bill - that was my first thought to use as I have one or two clunkers around, but these have to be continuous duty or latching. The Ford is intermittent and wont survive very long. The more I read about these gadgets, the more smarter I get. Yeah, sure I do

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Old 01-09-2012, 06:21 PM
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I have used latching solenoids (contactors) many times.
The main issue is it must be rated for continuous load in that application and/or inrush for starting.
the voltage source for switching control must be considered. If one battery runs dead will it be enough to switch to the charged battery? A diode isolated feed from both batteries to the SPDTCOff switch might be good idea.

vicrod
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:58 PM
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Why not run one of these, they require no current to operate(parasitic) as they are solid state.
Pardon my last picture bump.
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:30 AM
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OK - first of all, I have to apologize for the title of the thread as it should have read "Battery Disconnect" as battery isolator in the world of these kinds of devices and designs really mean isolate one battery from a second. Like I said before, "...the smarter I get"

I finally opened my wallet and took the shot on a Cole Hersee 24200 latching solenoid. This is one that the coil operates momentarily to turn on then to turn off and with a button type switch and is rated 110 amp continuous duty. This $50 solenoid is the same one that Painless wiring uses in their $160 (Summit price) battery disconnect. Watson's Street Works also uses it for their disconnects.

To finish out, I'll try to remember to post the schematic for how I ended up wiring my car.

Thanks for the help thinking me through this mod.

Dave W
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:55 AM
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This is how I did it. It works just fine:



Including the Odyssey PC680T battery, it's all hidden behind that box with the remotely operated JVC stereo mounted on top:



The stereo box still needs to be covered - one of these days (maybe )

Somewhere an 'oops' bunch of in-progress pictures are hiding on my computer, so I may have more to add later.

Dave W
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:24 AM
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Nice job, Dave! I will have to incorporate this into my build-thanks for sharing-
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:37 PM
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Hi Dave

Nice drawing, I don't understand the function of the 14Ga wire. It looks like it's bypassing the 10A fuse. Fuse goes between 1 & 2, 14 ga wire goes between 1 & 2(low side of fuse). Am I misreading the drawing?

regards

Ron
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gto_ron
Hi Dave

Nice drawing, I don't understand the function of the 14Ga wire. It looks like it's bypassing the 10A fuse. Fuse goes between 1 & 2, 14 ga wire goes between 1 & 2(low side of fuse). Am I misreading the drawing?

regards

Ron
Yes, that 14 ga wire is bypassing the fuse. It's not needed.
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkchaser
Yes, that 14 ga wire is bypassing the fuse. It's not needed.
That's correct. When I cleaned up the drawing for my files and posting, it should have been eliminated. I'll correct and post the revised sketch tomorrow. I'll ask the mod to delete the screwed up version at the same time Sorry for the confused copy
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:15 PM
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I also tried the Ford

solenoid on switching battery banks from my solar panels. but they over heated after a few minutes. However I took one apart and could readily see that if the terminals and the brass disk were larger in proportion to the amps needed they would work. I was always going to machine out a 1 inch or larger brass disk and 3/4 inch brass terminal bolts and another housing etc. And see what it could do. maybe someday?? Then I thought use 3 or 4 in parallel to carry more amps but I only had the one solenoid.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsfyj
solenoid on switching battery banks from my solar panels. but they over heated after a few minutes. However I took one apart and could readily see that if the terminals and the brass disk were larger in proportion to the amps needed they would work. I was always going to machine out a 1 inch or larger brass disk and 3/4 inch brass terminal bolts and another housing etc. And see what it could do. maybe someday?? Then I thought use 3 or 4 in parallel to carry more amps but I only had the one solenoid.
Sounds like you needed a latching solenoid. Once energized, they don't maintain the coil current to keep the buss in place. Sounds like you have either a continuous duty or intermittent duty and with these the coil will get hot. The Ford type - that's intermittent duty and while it will work, will fail eventually. A latching solenoid will cost in the neighborhood of 50-60 bucks.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:38 AM
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This is an awwww-@#$% which I forgot to do:
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