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Old 07-07-2005, 07:18 PM
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Battery keeps dieing on me, please help

Well the problem is kinda strange here, i put my car back on the road probably 2 months ago (81 elcamino) anyways i drove it for probably a month and then put the new motor in but i never changed anything just a direct swap. now here is the problem about 2 weeks ago i went to start it and all i got was a click click click everytime i went to start it anyways i have been disconnecting the battery every time i dont use it for a long period of time and whenever i would reconnect the - terminal i would get some juice well i figured it could be my amp (suspected this before hand) so anyways last night i went to disconnect it and it never sparked and it still fired right up so i left it well this morning it was DEAD i had to jump her and hustle to work and i disconnected it at work so i connect it at the end of the day and go to start and it turned over once and that was it nothing so i had to jump it again.... so anways i had this problem last season but forgot about it and it worked fine up until a week ago or so... and im not electrically inclined

altenator is charging at 13.8 volts
replaced the battery last year (motormaster eliminator)


any ideas? i was thinking of replacing the battery with an interstate i hate these cambodian tire battery jokes.

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Old 07-07-2005, 07:27 PM
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when u have time make sure battery is fully charged
like on a charger
then load test it after it sits a while.
it might not be holding a charge
if u still have warranty take it back
after test
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:06 PM
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Where is docvette

Oh well,

Ok here we go on a test procedure to see just where the electrons are escaping to..

Disconnect the positive from the battery terminal and using a mulitmeter check for current draw by putting one test probe on the battery and one on the disconnected positive lead..then start pulling fuses one at a time until the you find just which circuit is the culprit..

Then it is a matter of running down that circuit to find just where it is leaking electons at..

Probably one of those jobs that try your patience to find a wire rubbed through or something causing this..

OMT
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
Oh well,

Ok here we go on a test procedure to see just where the electrons are escaping to..

Disconnect the positive from the battery terminal and using a mulitmeter check for current draw by putting one test probe on the battery and one on the disconnected positive lead..then start pulling fuses one at a time until the you find just which circuit is the culprit..

Then it is a matter of running down that circuit to find just where it is leaking electons at..

Probably one of those jobs that try your patience to find a wire rubbed through or something causing this..

OMT
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:39 PM
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test alternator

Using a voltmeter check battery voltage. Start car and check it again. Voltage should go up to 13 volts or more. If it drops below 12 volts your alternator is bad.
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:45 PM
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Check this out

Check it out.............
http://www.labscopes.com/pg07.htm
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Old 07-08-2005, 11:31 AM
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does it jump start OK or does it hesitate a little bit? if it hesitates you may have a shorted cell in your battery. causing it to drain itself. another thing to check is a load test. you take your multimeter and hook it up to the battery and try starting the car. it shouldn't drop more than a few volts. if it goes below 7 i would change the battery.
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Old 07-08-2005, 12:12 PM
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I would start with what OneMoreTime said, but don't forget about voltage drops. Could be as simple as a bad ground strap or power cable. Don't over look the basics.

Also when you do the battery load test you don't want to see any lower than 9.5 volts.

Steve
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:13 PM
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The Short Version...

Doc here,

Measure your battery voltage static, should be around 12.7 and 13.75 volts...

If that's good, Start the vehicle and remeasure..It should be around 14.4 (after about 1 minute warm~up time)

If it is less Check your connections and fuse links..to the alternator, If the connections are good, check or run a 10 gauge ground from your alternator ground lug, to the main vehicle ground over by the starter.

If your running readings are still lower than 14.4 OR fluctuate up or down, replace the regulator and / or Diode pack ... Or just replace the alternator...you have a diode reverse biasing, imposing a load just sitting..and also producing LESS than 14.4 DC (like 12.2 DC and 2.2 AC which is useless.)

Let us know what you find

Doc
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Old 07-08-2005, 06:13 PM
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that part about the diode you mentioned vette is exactly what my dad told me to check, well tommorow im putting the speed demon on and i will deal with the electrical gremlins so i will let everybodu know what happened
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:57 PM
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Alright well the problem has been solved, but let me tell you what happened before it was fixed. I used it parked it 7 went to start it up around 11 and it was dead then i disconnected the - post overnight went to use it in the morning and it started but it was slow so i went to church went to start it again in 1 hour and it was dead. came home let it sit for 30mins went to use it and it was dead again. went and got an Optima Red stuck her in there started great. Well we went to test it and.... it was pulling .308 milli amps so i knew there was a major problem so i went in the car and ripped the ground right off the amp and now it was pulling .028 milli amps so i think it solved the problem
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Old 07-10-2005, 07:16 PM
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Find a better ground for amp.
Make sure no paint is present between cable and body
and use a star washer to anchor
test again.
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Old 07-11-2005, 07:15 AM
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Drain

Doc here,

Sounds like your AMP ENERGIZE line is wired hot at all times instead of hot when the control head is on..check that line and correct if required...

Your amp is running all the time when it should not be.

Doc
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