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Battery Relocation questions

Hey guys, I used the search function to try and find an answer to my problem to no avail. I'm moving the battery to the trunk of a 73 Nova and I'm not the best at wiring.

My questions are...

1) The starter I have has the solenoid on top of it, do I still have to get another solenoid for a trunk mount set up?
2) Do I have to use 1Ga Positive wire to go straight to the starter solenoid
3) Do I have to run a thicker wire for the Alternator charge wire (from the Battery)
4) Where can I buy some 1ga wire the length I need (24 ft)?
5) Is it okay for me to run the wire underneath the car with wire loom protecting it?
6) If I ground the battery to the engine block, can I still ground it to the frame?
7) does the Alternator charge wire come from the horn relay?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm ready to get this car going with only a few small steps to make things work.
Thanks

Fine strand arc welder cable is more flexible , easier to route. I would use multiple grounds, engine block, frame and , body.

okay I was going to do that to be sure. thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67MercCat (Post 1581288)

Hey guys, I used the search function to try and find an answer to my problem to no avail. I'm moving the battery to the trunk of a 73 Nova and I'm not the best at wiring.

My questions are...

1) The starter I have has the solenoid on top of it, do I still have to get another solenoid for a trunk mount set up?
No - it complicates your wiring
2) Do I have to use 1Ga Positive wire to go straight to the starter solenoid
1AWG works nicely (the welding wire is a good alternative)
3) Do I have to run a thicker wire for the Alternator charge wire (from the Battery)
It should be at least a #6AWG
4) Where can I buy some 1ga wire the length I need (24 ft)?
Welding shop or Summit and their Taylor kit
5) Is it okay for me to run the wire underneath the car with wire loom protecting it?
Yes
6) If I ground the battery to the engine block, can I still ground it to the frame?
Yes, as well as to the body
7) does the Alternator charge wire come from the horn relay?
I doubt it but manufacturer's have done/do some really strange things and possibly 'daisy chained' the positive leads

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm ready to get this car going with only a few small steps to make things work.
Thanks

Adding to your first question - when I first wired my car, I used a second solenoid at the battery. When I redid the isolating wiring last winter, I took it out as unnecessary.

One more - don't forget that shut off switch in the main battery to starter wire. You can still maintain computers and radio systems with a simple bypass and fuse arrangement.

Dave W

Before doing anything, be sure to visit auto electrical guru Mark Hamilton's site:

MadElectrical.com - Mad Enterprises

Then you'll understand not only what to do, but why. This guy is the best!

The main (IMHO) reason to using a second solenoid in the trunk at the battery is to eliminate a hot + heavy gage wire running from the rear to the front of the vehicle. If that wire shorts you will more than likely loose your car to a fire.

Vince

oh okay I understand it's purpose. Kinda like a huge fuse. I noticed that while wiring the starter, that they'res no terminal for the purple wire, do I have the wrong starter solenoid?

Here is a good tutorial on the Ford starter solenoid.
Remote Starter Solenoid Instructions

Vince

My 2 cents..... The Ford solenoid in the trunk to maintain a dead cable while not running etc...... Why?..... if run properly the cable won't chafe and short out for that terrifying meltdown everyone keeps talking about, but I've never actualy seen. and if you really do have a fear of that..... put in a 150 amp Maxi fuse yadda yadda.....

As far as your starter, not sure if your starter has 4 or 3 terminal on the solenoid....if a 4 terminal .... you should have a "I" terminal, supplies 12v pwr to the old coil/points setup, while the engine is cranking, yell or white wire, if yours has been upgraded to an HEI system this could be the pwr source for the HEI while cranking wtc....

and a "S" terminal that get 12v from the ing switch....purple in color
three terminal doesn't have the "I" terminal

yeah it's an old points set up and he has that 3 terminal starter. I got it to turn over just so I could set the initial timing, Another one of my buddies told me that the Ford solenoid would give me better starting when the engine is hot. I much rather put a maxi fuse back there instead of a solenoid.

I was thinking to go and get the Ford solenoid because they have an "I" and "S" terminal so I can hook up the coil.

I'd get the new starter vs the ford solenoid, and with the lifetime replacements etc...... never an issue again

thanks guys, you've been so helpful, I got the solenoid and the other parts and my buddy decided to keep the battery in the trunk thing until another time. I told him what it would cost him in cable and I told him I won't do it if he's gonna cut corners in such a critical area.

Anyways, I got a clear understanding of all things electrical from MadElectrical.com, I love the way it was explained.

thx again guys and pics soon of the finish product!

A cheaper way to get cable is to use a set of OO jumper cables and cut off the ends.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EOD Guy (Post 1582001)

A cheaper way to get cable is to use a set of OO jumper cables and cut off the ends.

Or spring for some marine 4/0 cable and never regret what it costs.

Vince

I've used OO jumper cables several times and haven't regretted it yet, they are actualy a larger gauge than OEM battery cables. What's the issue with saving a little money?