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Old 06-18-2013, 09:25 AM
oldbogie oldbogie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
Hi Folks,

I finally got around to removing the intake today with the intention of re-sealing the rear china wall with Ultra Black RTV (as suggested on this site.)

The first surprise was seening crud in the thermo housing, on the thermo, and gelled antifreeze under the thermo on the floor of the water passage inside the manifold.

It got worse when the (RPM Air Gap) manifold came off. The driver's side rear water passage was nearly plugged with technicolor goo. (Yuck)


I plan to fix this situation by refilling with tap water and GUNK rad flush ... and then refilling with 50/50 premix. It just had to be a chemical reaction with tap water, right?

Block was dipped, the rad is brand new ... everything is (was) brand new, with only hours -- not years -- of run time. Yes, the engine has sat idle for a couple of years now. I discovered that the t'stat housing was actually corroded to the point of perforation, but then again it's made from genuine Taiwanisium. Any recommendations for a GOOD new one?

I have reordered a FelPro Performance Intake Gasket Set (#1210) also at the advice of the membership here. The gaskets pictured in my journal are Felpro MS90240-2 which would have been stock on this engine.

Now on to the subject of this thread:
Some of you may recall that I have experienced the scrubbed cam lobe on the initial startup on the original cam. We're now on cam #2, and I MAY be paranoid ... but I don't like the look of the lobes considering this NEW cam has just break-in and occasional "show and tell" sessions on it.



More pics and story in my latest journal entries. (#73, 74, 75)
Opinions?
The bottom picture tells the story, lobe number 2 and 3 in from the left are wiping out, the wide near center rub band on the lobe is the giveaway.

I'm not a fan of antifreeze diluted with water. But if you must follow instructions than use either distilled or de-ionized water. All tap water carries dissolved chemicals picked up from the soil and rock it passed through and/or added for taste, anti-bacterial or dental health by the water district. This stuff can be very corrosive depending on these previous conditions. Plus different types of anti-freeze are not compatible with other types and this situation has become extremely complex in recent years. Given that there are all these strange brews out there, I just cringe when I see words on Prestone containers that say itís compatible with all other anti-freezes. The company I used to implicitly trust is now telling me "one size fits all"; I don't think so!

Living on the west coast where the weather is gentler in winter so I don't need to be concerned about the antics of pure old fashion ethylene glycol Prestone at sub zero temperatures and subjected to very hard water if it isn't distilled or de-ionized, I long ago switched to a waterless solution of 100% Prestone. While I fiddle now and then with the chemistry of mixing ethylene and propylene glycols, I mostly just use Evans waterless any more, it makes the problems of chemical reactions inside the cooling system, corrosion of the parts, worrying about nucleate boiling and such concerns just go away. The peace of mind is more than worth the extra money.

Bogie
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