I'm getting ready for my first ring & pinion install and without the availability of all necessary tools, I would like to make it as painless as possible.
Right now I'm thinking about bearings and how they may differ from one manufacturer to another. Specifically the pinion and carrier bearings.
It's a 1988 Ford 8.8. From the references I've come across so far, the factory bearings should be Koyo. I have not disassembles the rear yet.
So for example, if I get a set of federal mogul bearings, how far off will they be from the factory ones and will this difference be enough to throw off the shims currently in place.
Seems all manufacturers use the same part number. For example "M 802048" is the part number for the head bearing for koyo, timken and federal mogule.
What I'm wondering is if the tolerances differ enough from one bearing manufacture to another so different thickness shims will be needed to get the same preload. All else being equal.
Federal bearings are usually made in China. I recommend getting something different. Koyo or Timken are good. You can get a complete kit from USA Standard that has Koyo bearings in it cheaper than you can get them from an auto parts store. Auto Zone bearings are usually Timken.
I've had to reshim many times when installing new bearings. I highly recommend doing a pattern check and measuring the backlash BEFORE taking the rear end apart. This way you know how you need to set it up when you put it back together. This is all assuming that you are using the same gears again. If you are changing gears or the differential then you are going to have to shim it anyway.
I don't sell axle bearings, but we get Timken and Koyo in by the pallet. I'd feel very comfortable with either brand being made to size and being of acceptable quality. If theres a big difference in price, usually the Koyo is cheaper and of equal quality.
Follow BGH's advice before you dis-assemble
Typical automotive type bearings found in a axle have an included tolerance of +/- 0.00025. The only crap bearings I have run across were some of the no name bearings from various sources. Usually they have "China" inked on the bearing and dont even have the look of a quality piece of steel.
I've noticed the same thing ericnova said. As long as they are a name brand bearing the tolerance is usually smaller than the thinnest shim you'll have available.
Any thoughts on putting in a used set of gears. It's going into a 1988 Mustang GT. I'm pretty sure I won't be keeping this car. It's my current winter project and will probably sell it come summer. I haven't done a R&P change before, so this is the perfect candidate.
Of course it won't help the resale if it has noisy gears, but I can get a used set of factory gears for about $50 VS $150 for new ones. Either way I'll get a new install kit.
I'm looking to get 3.73 to replace the 3.27 that are in it now. It's an auto.
If I do keep it, the auto will have to go and the 3.73s will go well with a manual.
Also, should I still check the pattern and back lash on the existing setup if I'm going to change the gears? Probably not I assume since gears will be different, Just checking. (Please remember, it's my first)
Used gears are difficult to set up. I don't like doing them and I've been setting up gears for 35 years. I don't recommend it for your first time, especially since you don't have the tools you need to do the job. If these used gears were pattern checked and the backlash was checked before they were removed then you have a much better chance of getting them right.
Can you please explain why checking pattern and backlash prior to removal would help in a reinstall even if it's going in a different housing. Not questioning you, just trying to learn why.
A new gear will give you a easy to read pattern because they have no wear on them yet. You can go by the book when reading the pattern and make pinion depth and backlash adjustments based on text book patterns. Used gears have wear on them and will no longer give you a text book pattern. If you don't know what the wear pattern looks like then you have little chance of setting them up correctly because you don't know what to look for. If you check the pattern before you remove the gears and take pictures of the pattern then you know what you need to be looking for when setting them up again. Backlash is easy to check and easy to set, but if you don't know what it was before then you don't know what to set it at when you reinstall them.
For a first time installer I recommend using new gears so that you can read the pattern and make adjustments much easier.
''If I do keep it, the auto will have to go and the 3.73s will go well with a manual.'' 3.73's will go well with the AOD automatic that is in the car now.
I think I have to go with used gears and a new install kit. Current financial situation is pretty tight. The extra $150 is enough to sway the decision to not get new.
I don't mean to disregard all the advise I've gotten about NOT getting used, but I ended up trading my last winter's project for this one instead of selling it to get the cash. I do realize there is a good chance used gears might be noisy. I'm going to chance it. Buddy of mine has a set of factory 3.73s he'll give me for free. He said they came out of a explorer. Be back in a week or so with help on reading gear pattern.
Thanks again.
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