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Old 03-16-2011, 11:04 PM
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bench bleeding master

How many strokes does it take to bleed the master cylinder. I'm bench bleeding my master cylinder by installing it in a vice . I made bleeder tubes connected them and bent them into the master. {cylinder has large a small resiviors for disc and drum brakes.] the instructions say to use dull instrument to push in piston 3/4 to 1" and release. keep doing that till piston will only push in 1/8". I push in slowly and release slowly then wait for ten seconds and push again. still goes in the one inch after several minutes of pushing. ???? Bill
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:25 PM
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They might mean until there's considerably more resistance than there was at first. I've always just slowly pumped the piston- w/o "bottoming" it to the very end of its travel- until the bubbles quit appearing. But the piston never stopped after being depressed 1/8", at least not on any of the MC's I've ever bled.

At the point where no more bubbles are seen, the MC is mounted, lines attached, fluid filled and the brakes bled. Using this procedure I have had no problems.

One thing to note (and not to confuse the issue)- the last MC I bought was supplied w/plugs to block off the outlet ports of the MC. Bleeding was then done by stroking the piston as usual, but the air was expelled through the ports in the bottom of the reservoirs.
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:34 PM
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bleeding master

I went back out after reading the brake threads and found one with the same info as my brake sheet. I started pumping slowly again and it appears that the rear resivoir is flushing fluid as I push in but not the front. When I push in the resivoirs they both go down a little in fluid and comes back up as I release but the front doesn't seem to have the gush that the rear one has. My bleeder in front is about 2 1/2 inches longer than the one in back do you think that would make a difference. Bill
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:46 PM
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bleeding

Thanks for your reply Cobalt, I'v pushed this so many times I can't tell if it the same or not. As for the plastic nut both methods are in the instructions. I guess if the fluid is going down in both resivoirs and comming up when released they must be working. I guess I'll try mounting it on the car and try bleeding to the wheel cylinders and see what happens. I'll let you know. Thank you. Bill
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:48 PM
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You're getting your bleeding methods confused.
Using the recirculating tubes that you made, all you need to do is keep pumping until you see no more bubbles coming out of the tubes.
The instructions regarding pumping until you get little or no movement of the piston refer to a method that uses plugs, not tubes, in the outlet ports. Using this method, you put solid plugs into the outlet tubes and pump the piston. The air bubbles will come up through the bottom of the master cylinder resevoir and when the air has been expelled, the piston will not move any more.
I have worked for a major brake manufacturer for over thirty years and we publish both methods for bench bleeding. Personally, I prefer the way you are doing it. Just pump until you see no more bubbles and you are good to go.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:09 PM
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brake bleed

Well after fixing 4 different leaks at the fittings and replacing two lines Im finally ready to bleed to the cylinders. will go to az to pick up a bleeder bottle and tube. If I can get these brakes done I will be ready to put the body back on the frame to see if I got all the mounting holes in the right place. I've been working on the body floor channels by the trunk. I installed a new floor but just had it tacked in till I got my next bottle of gas for my welder. So rear floors done front floor and kick is done and now I have to see if everything fits. thanks for everybody's help. Bill
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