[bullheimer]

put all new push rods in. pulled out the 1.6's and installed stock 1.5s. adjusted according to book. bent 5 and Zee'd one more. heard electrical type (but it aint) snapping noises occasionally in cranking with the intake off first while all the pushrods were in and getting bent.

pulled them all out. put two straight ones in #1 and tried to adjust. as motor gets cranked (all plugs out) hear that sound again. the p rods arent bent, but they dont adjust. they are going up and down different heights. pull out all lifters and they look fine. pull one of the two apart and the plunger doesnt pump so we take it apart and it seems like the plunger was kinda wedged. it had oil in it tho. this is sucking! i should have enough clearance with 1.5's. it seems we have tons of room before binding could occur, but the shop says the springs they put in are only good for .470 and my exhaust lift is .469. i dont want to pull the heads off but it looks like i am going to have to. after all. i am DEVOlving.

[chianesi]

Sounds like you're on the right track. While reading into your problem, I was going to say it sounds like the springs also. I am willing to bet that if you springs capable of handling more lift your problems will be gone.

[bullheimer]

spose if i hadda brain i wouldnt be here. i called comp cams they just told me that none of there cams will work with stock springs! course, i wasnt spozed to have stock springs. heads are comin off. devolution continues as promised. i wouldnt lie to you. so far....

crank out once to change bearings
all rod caps had to come off for that

rear main and oil pump off to put in rear seal i forgot

all head bolts r and r'd one by one to put sealer on them

intake removed twice to weld crack in heater hose bung and now to check lifters and galley for metal

timing chain cover had to come off right after i put it on cause i remembered i forgot to torque down the cam bolts!

a/c compressor off again, carb off again, alternator coming off,

headers off once before to remove head bolts when i put the permatex 300 on them and now to take off heads

valve covers: had tall ones on, had to put shorts on to clear a/c

rocker arms cause they bent all the push rods, on second set

heads to get different valve springs. so by the time i get this done i have basically built 2-3 engines for the price of one. devo!

[Beenaway2long]

(in a whisper)
Pssssst, Sam! Hey Sam ! Crate motor, brother.....

Ever think of writing a book? Dude, you have some killer stories..

Jeff

[4 Jaw Chuck]

Sounds like your kissing the piston Bull.

[malc]

When you did the cam bolts did you put one of those locking plates on there with the little tabs you bend up to stop the bolts coming loose ?

[bullheimer]

no i used loc-tite. didnt have one of those when it came off. crate ... i hear ya bro. it was a numbers matching thing and was sposed to be cheap and quick. CHEAP AND QUICK HAHAHAHA! i can check the pistons when the heads are off again. my friend is workin on them now, says he has the engine rotating without snap crackling and poping and it looks like there is no coil bind issues, but my friend who built them says he'll put springs on for free and check the install height etc. i ordered the springs from summit. they are $60 plus $10 for 2 day air plus $10 for handling. so $80. but hey don't cha know I'M FRIKKEN MADE OF MONEY???

news flash:

tops of the pistons have a very slight mark-not even a nick- from every exhaust valve. remember my post "pistons kissing valves"? well i used those sealed power pistons w/o checking them. have to check tolerances this time. i think the noise came from the spring being loaded by the valve hitting the piston. blah. just a good thing i tore it apart.

[4 Jaw Chuck]

Hope your valves are alright.

Glad you found the problem.

[tresi]

Something is really wrong here. Normally you won't have a piston to valve clearance problem with only .470" lift. Either you have the cam really off or you pistons are a set of asymmetrical style or two eyebrow pistons and you have them in backwards. The stock 4 eyebrow piston will always have a valve relief under the valve no matter what cylinder you put it in.

Ok from your other post I seen what pistons you have. You've got a timing problem or something like that.

[malc]

If I were you, when the heads come off check the cam timing,
get nº one to TDC and set the head back on w/gasket. Plop the pushrods in and rockers and see if they are both closed.
I would even take the timing cover off to check,you can´t keep buying pushrods forever!
BTW those pistons I see in your journal seem to have generous valve reliefs cut in them.
Also how far down the bore are the pistons at TDC ?

[bullheimer]

without miking like one 32nd or so. the pistons do have four reliefs. i think there are a couple possibilities.

wrong lifters in the box
wrong cam in the box or lobes in wrong spot
sabotagee but doubtful

what worries me is that my friend had everything spinning w/o interferance while i was at work yesterday. if i would have had the right springs in the first place i would have left it together, as it is i have to pull the water pump and timing cover off to check my marks and if they are okay i have to pull the cam and check the numbers on it and find someone who can tell me if it's manufactured right

[Beenaway2long]

Got a degree wheel and the cam card, Sam? With those 2, you should be able to determine if the cam is the same duration as the cam card. And if you verified your harmonic balancer is zero, when you had the heads off, you can actually see if the cam is zero'd without taking the whole shi-bang apart.

Get one of those $13 plastic push rod length checker (Jegs pn# 778-66789) that will tell you if the pushrods are too long. It will also verify if the lifters are too long.

Good luck, man. You could use some.

[galaxieguy3]

I agree with tresi and malc, check your cam timing.

[DoubleVision]

If I remember right by your other post you were using 345np pistons, if memory serves me correctly, these pistons have .020 off the tops, and that would give a even bigger clearance if the block has not been decked, .020 off the pistons plus .025 below deck factory plus a fel pro gasket of .041 gives a distance of .086 so if valves are kissing the pistons, something is way off valve timing wise, I would yank the cam and compare side by side to another cam.

[malc]

bullheimer, check this out http://www.hotrodders.com/showthread...threadid=41656