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Best 100-300 shot Nitrous set up? dry or wet shot?

6K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  ProStreetRob 
#1 ·
I have a 355 sbc with Mahle coated dome forged pistons, forged Eagle crank, with I-Beam Scat rods in my lower end. I am not to familiar with nitrous set ups or witch is a better way to go, dry or wet shot? I am pretty sure i should be safe beings im running all forged internals. My question is what would be the best nitrous 150-300 shot set up to go with an am i on the right track not trashing my motor?
 
#2 ·
If you are not familiar, read up - alot. It's a whole lot more than just putting it on and pushing a button. 150-300 shot is easily done with a base plate. Tuning, timing, fuel system, wiring, bottle heater, gauges, blow off valve, timing controller, etc. etc. etc. Your statement saying you are not familiar with it tells me you need to read up on what it does, how to control it, how to use it, store it and be safe for you and the engine.

Warning: once you know all of it and use it, it is addictive. I moved on to just all forced induction now cause the power is there without gassing it. But, I do not know your intentions either.
 
#3 ·
This is actually my first nitrous motor I have ever built, I just want to do it right and not cut no corners. I no what u need to run the system correctly an the difference between dry and wet shot just dont no witch would be a better alternative. An meaning by set up is like witch is the go to brand that aint junk. Just dont want to throw a build and all the money i have into it away.:thumbup:
 
#4 ·
If this is a street car, go wet. I have only used NOS and Nitrous Express systems and parts.

If you go dry, the engine will be too rich just driving around on the street. Going wet, you will just add the additional fuel when the nitrous is being used. You are looking for 150-300 shot, so it will take more fuel.
 
#7 ·
Not being familiar with it I would strongly recommend using a Nitrous Controller. It's great to be able to delay the Nitrous, have it come on in percentages, and then use stage two to pull a percentage of the nitrous away somewhere @ the 1000ft mark.

I've had many different kits on many vehicles over the last 35+ years, as long as you do your homework, dont over do it, and you listen to your motor, you'll be fine.

You can never go wrong with NX (Nitrous Express), I just put a very basic 500.00 NX kit on my Prostreet Ranger (100 - 250 RWHP Kit) but in your case expect to pay up to 800-1000 for the initial kit and by the time your done 1500-1800. (You want the extra's like a pressure switch, purge, relay, heater, gauge, maybe an electric bottle opener).
 
#10 ·
Zex makes a great Kit and I've used them in a couple of cases now with great success :thumbup: Their TB/EFI kit has 3 wires to hook up, Power, Ground, & TPS, everything else is self contained in a nice small box you bolt to the fire wall. It makes for a real nice clean install especially if you custom size your lines. This was the set up on 1 of my Lightnings



In my recent case I have a very light 2500lb truck with a Fully Forged Ford Racing Boss 345 motor specifically built for n20 or boost so it's pretty bad ***** to begin with. I added the n20 more for those special moments when it's HAMMER TIME, (the more hammer the better if you know what I mean). :D

I like a stealthy install most wont notice, I still have a little work on this install to finish when the weather breaks.






Dam I got a lot of cleaning to do when this dam snow finally goes away :pain:
 
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