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Old 01-14-2011, 07:53 PM
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Best 383 Chevy Rods Without Grinding

Howdy,

I'm looking at building a 383 using a 1992 Vortec Chevy block. Do they make such a thing as a rod that fits without having to clearance the rods or block? Which rods would need the least clearancing?




Thank




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Old 01-14-2011, 08:10 PM
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Vortecs came out in 96. You have just a plain jane tbi engine most likely. Depending on your application the rods you have may work fine. What is your goal/part combo?
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:58 PM
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I'm building a motor for a 1972 GMC truck. I'd like it to be a stump puller. I have no rods, just the block.



Thanks


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Old 01-14-2011, 09:34 PM
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I think you'll have to clearance pretty much any block when you start changing the rotating geometry, particularly rod throws, from the block designed parameters.

Some applications will also need small base circle cams to avoid contact, you're moving already close clearance parts higher into the block, and further out the sides, dangerously close to the cylinder bottoms and the pan rail on some.

Clearancing for a 383 is very simple, using a small grinder, even a dremel tool in a pinch. I'd grind the block before I did rod bolts.
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:36 PM
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If you really just want torque I'd get a real Vortec sbc, put in a 383 crank with 400 rods and 350 pistons. ZZ4 take out cam a rpm manifold and a 1406 edelbrock would finish out the combo real well. Short rods for better low end- the difference isn't huge but if you need rods may as well get the ones that best fit your application.
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Old 01-15-2011, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck
Howdy,

I'm looking at building a 383 using a 1992 Vortec Chevy block. Do they make such a thing as a rod that fits without having to clearance the rods or block? Which rods would need the least clearancing?




Thank



92 would not be a Vortec block as folks around here use the term "Vortec". The Vortec as we define it would be the 1996 to the end of Gen I production L31 truck engine. The 92 will be something else with factory swirl port heads not considered to be a performance piece but sans those heads can be built up.

The 96 to EOP block does not require so much relieving for a 383 stroker crank as do the pre-mid 1995 blocks casting ends in 880 for these, they show up with swirl ports toward the end of 95 production

The 92 block will require a little relief on the pan rail and bore extension in to the crankcase. You will have to check the bottom of the water jackets to see if some relief is needed some blocks do some don't.

The other issue is getting the rod past the cam. The best solution is a cap screw rod, some are made for stroker clearance. With the cap screw rod, if material has to be removed from the big end side of the shank it doesn't have to come off the bolt head as it does with a conventional bolt and nut design. Check each and only clearance those that need it, not all will. This usually doesn't remove enough material to upset the balance but if you're going to balance the engine it is better to do the clearancing first so you get all the balance you pay for. I never buy a prebalanced kit, although they give a good price break on these over picking a local balancer, I've found too may times that these prebalanced kits are not done well enough to suit me.

Bogie
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Old 01-16-2011, 03:28 AM
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I use these, Scat Pro Comps, they're profiled for Strokers.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Scat-P...Rods,6608.html
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:08 AM
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I'm not qualified to say, but I'm going to through my two cents in anyway. I'm agreeing with SSedan64 as far as what looks like a good choice. Whether its the absolute best or not??? Anyway, I bought a set of six inch Scat rods for a 383 Chevy stroker and as far as appearance, they look like a work of art compared to stock parts(not knocking stock stuff). They also have ARP 7/16 " capscrew bolts that thread directly into the rod material instead of smaller 3/8" bolts that have to be pressed into/out of the upper rod by a machine shop usually, which also usually requires that they be re-sized. Plus if grinding is required, its in the area of the bolt head on a stock rod, but on the rod "shoulder" on the Scat which they state is typically not required as they already profiled for clearance. As I said I'm not qualified as I haven't assembled my engine yet, but I'm betting the farm on mine.FWIW
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Old 01-16-2011, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
92 would not be a Vortec block as folks around here use the term "Vortec". The Vortec as we define it would be the 1996 to the end of Gen I production L31 truck engine. The 92 will be something else with factory swirl port heads not considered to be a performance piece but sans those heads can be built up.

The 96 to EOP block does not require so much relieving for a 383 stroker crank as do the pre-mid 1995 blocks casting ends in 880 for these, they show up with swirl ports toward the end of 95 production

The 92 block will require a little relief on the pan rail and bore extension in to the crankcase. You will have to check the bottom of the water jackets to see if some relief is needed some blocks do some don't.

The other issue is getting the rod past the cam. The best solution is a cap screw rod, some are made for stroker clearance. With the cap screw rod, if material has to be removed from the big end side of the shank it doesn't have to come off the bolt head as it does with a conventional bolt and nut design. Check each and only clearance those that need it, not all will. This usually doesn't remove enough material to upset the balance but if you're going to balance the engine it is better to do the clearancing first so you get all the balance you pay for. I never buy a prebalanced kit, although they give a good price break on these over picking a local balancer, I've found too may times that these prebalanced kits are not done well enough to suit me.

Bogie

I agree with BOGIE! I just got done building a 383 vortec block for my 1996 k2500. I built it with 6" capscrew rods, and didnt have to do much clearancing to the bottom of the cylinders and no where else! And you want to talk about stump pulling torque! My truck goes 7400 lbs across the scale and it sure feels a lot more nimble and gets better gas mileage now than it ever has. Even with the factory vortec computer tune it was worth every penny. Can't wait to get my flashed computer back and hook up to my gooseneck trailer to see the real difference!
Just remember parts matching is extremely important to build the most out of what you want! Good luck!
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