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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2012, 07:29 AM
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Why not find a good Mercruiser 502 shortblock from a boat? Great quality parts, top not assembly and balancing from the factory. Change cam and heads, add a dominator and go.

If this is your first foray into the 600hp market; my suggestion would be to add a GM 502/502 cam and valvetrain to the Mercruiser 502. And, once you get comfortable, get the suspension sorted etc...you can step your game up. I found religion real quick in a 640hp 427SBC. Things happen much faster...good and bad

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2012, 09:51 AM
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Well I actually have 2 cars that this motor could go in both built except for the trans which I just finished building my dads old t400 that was behind his 496 10 years ago. I'm surrounded by my uncles and brother that have ****** cars my uncle has a 668 bbc on nitrous pushin 2k hp but my brother is more my speed who has a built 355. I want to build my own motor with little help from them. Too much power doesn't exsist for me but unless we're talkin 850+ hp cause I don't have the drivetrain for quite that much power or the foot for that matter. So you guys think 496 is the way to go? Money is a small factor but I'd rather spend the money and have a good strong motor.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2012, 09:52 AM
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Cobalt is right, the trans isn't that big of a deal as a built th400 will be fine but you'll need a well built 12 bolt, a expensive custom driveshaft and the suspension will require a lot of dialing in to get a perfect launch.

A regular racer is used to all of this and you may be too but the engine is only about half the cost of a "600hp" car.

That's the biggest reason I now lean to the "lighten it up" side rather than the more power side. Lighter cars running less power are far cheaper and easier to build, assuming you start with a relativley light car (getting a chevelle under 2500 pounds can get expensive)
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:44 AM
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Guys im trying to focus on one thing at a time, right now being the motor. When the motor is done i will be focusing on the car it is going in and do what needs to be done to it. I would just like your guys advice for this motor and if a 496 is the best way to go and what internals and heads are the best?
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:26 AM
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Bigger is better. You can run a big cam and still get it to behave; they make heads now with beer-can sized ports and 1050 dominators are everywhere

Forged Crank, Rods and Pistons. Im not sure I would go with Scat; but its your budget. Probe makes good pistons; no idea on your SCR. Contact Mike Jones @ Jones' Cams for your valvetrain. And heads? Why not AFR. Single Plane intake that's been ported
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:54 AM
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if you have the cash, buy you a set of 290 AFR's CNC oval port aluminum heads.. flow like a big head, produce good low end torque with good low rpm velocity like a small head...run a good dual plane intake manifold like a rpm airgap for good street/strip or single plane for more upper rpm power band.. just a few ideas
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:55 AM
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Who makes the best forged rotating assembly at the best price? Yes i was looking at afr aluminum heads but the prices were a little high who else makes good aluminum bb heads under or around $2000? obviously dart or brodix.
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:55 AM
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If you feel more comfortable building the 468 then go ahead a build it, its not a bad CI to work with.. if you decide to build you a 496, here is a rotating assembly, the crankshaft i assume is a cast/steel you may ask tho to be sure http://www.ebay.com/itm/BBC-CHEVY-49...es&vxp=mtr..if you do purchase something like this, like anything save yourself a headach later on and have all these parts check to make sure they are good and true, even have the assembly rebalanced to double check by a local shop if posssible.. or you can give scat a call or email as well, they can hook you up on a 496 or 468 assembly
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2012, 07:42 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Since you're budget is pretty tight I would consider offshore heads. Order them bare, have them inspected, then clean up the ports (esp guides and bowls) and assemble them yourself. Its probably about the best you can do for under 2k.

Also, figure out what your power and rpm target is, that will determine stroke, head size, compression, cam, etc. You need to have a very definite goal, not just "I'll buy what's cheap when I can"
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:52 PM
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Im honestly not worked about rpm range i want it for both street and strip. Is a forged crank worth spending the extra money? I really like this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/BB-489-496-F...0401d4&vxp=mtr
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:49 PM
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To be onest, if the engine will never see over 6500 rpm and maybe hit that point once in a great while, than save your self a bit of cash and just buy a cast/steel crank, then take the rest and put most of your budget in a set of heads and roller cam, that's where you get your HP
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dav770431
Who makes the best forged rotating assembly at the best price? Yes i was looking at afr aluminum heads but the prices were a little high who else makes good aluminum bb heads under or around $2000? obviously dart or brodix.
you have sevaral options here for your price range, Ill list a few..

Patriot freedom series 320/119cc roller setup $1600
Elderbrock E Street 290/110cc $1900
Brodix BB2+ 312/119cc $1900

this is just a few about for your price range depending on the camshaft you decided on roller or flat tappet... One thing to remember is what ever heads you choose, make sure the intake manifold you buy has the ports to match up with the heads... you have oval port heads and rectangular ports heads, the intake manifold MUST!! match the head port
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2012, 09:33 PM
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496 build

I know you said you didn't have the money to buy a Dart block but check out this ad on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-496-ST...#ht_1621wt_952. I am assuming you will have to buy a block for your build. Do this first, get an estimate of all machine work that has to be done to your block. Then itemize the prices of all the parts to assemble the short block. I bet you will be spending very close to the price of this short block. Think about it, it is a good deal.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2012, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdminter59
I know you said you didn't have the money to buy a Dart block but check out this ad on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-496-ST...#ht_1621wt_952. I am assuming you will have to buy a block for your build. Do this first, get an estimate of all machine work that has to be done to your block. Then itemize the prices of all the parts to assemble the short block. I bet you will be spending very close to the price of this short block. Think about it, it is a good deal.
I wonder why they are starting with a Little-M block when they ae building 496 BBC they should be using a Big-M block!!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2012, 12:15 PM
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Cnc Blocks Ne

I checked out that ad again and sent them an email asking that question. I asked if it was a misprint since it's a 496 big block.I checked my messages on Ebay and they responded that it was a misprint. It should have said big M dart block.
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