When I got my 454 back from the machine shop, it was assembled to the long-block stage.

When I installed the intake, I started spraying some High Tack on both the intake gaskets and the cylinder heads. I was thinking that it would be best to glue them in place ... so they wouldn't slip around when I was setting the intake into place.

I was advised by one of the technicians NOT to use any adhesive, except (as others have said) a dab of RTV at the corners. He says that he has pulled apart too many engines and found gasket glue on the intake valves ... gumming them up and hardening.

Following his advice, I removed it all with brake clean ... dabbed the corners with RTV, and CAREFULLY set the intake into place.

Never, in over 20 years have I seen that. Never.

Lets use common sense here for a change. The amount of "glue" you are looking at putting on is ONLY enough to hold the gasket in place. Not a whole tube. A thin smear across the surface will not in any way make it to the valves.

Unless it's a dirt track team's engine!!!!!L.O.L.

I am with Rick,,not sure where people come up with all these crazy stories but i don't see any way for the glue to ever make it to a valve???

I also use 3m weather strip adhesive.That stuff even held the gaskets on the alcohol late modle engines i built,when most of the other adhesives gave up.


Keith

Use of RTV on the front and rear is perfectly acceptable. I have done it many times with no problems. One thing that must be done however is once a bead of it is laid down on the engine it must be allowed to skim over or start to harden before the intake is placed on. Both surfaces must be super clean and free of grease. Personally I do not like the cork end gaskets. Earlier small blocks I have seen where people dimpled the block where the cork gaskets go on the block to help hold them in place.

Cince

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I tried using black RTV sparingly, like only on the underside of the intake gaskets around the water ports.
This is what happened.

When I repaired this I used Gasketcinch and RTV on both sides of the intake gasket, and after installing the manifold did not start the engine for 24 hours.

Well ... common sense or not, this guy is a Ford Master Tech ... and I'm a partsman that has never done any engine assembly/disassembly to speak of.

So of course I followed his advice ... despite the fact that he calls my 454 a "boat anchor".

Perhaps he was pulling my leg, and I fell for it.
That is his sense of humor.

that 3m weather strip adhesive also serves as a locking material for nut and bolts. Ed

the above post (glue and guide bolts) and the following is an attempt to help on a manifold swap with the motor in the car....
probably should have named it "an ounce of prevention can be worth a pound of cure"

if the old manifold did use silicone for the end seals, just scraping and brake cleaner is not enough.....

mark the scraped end seals steel on the block with a magic marker, (cover and protect all, ports and valley) use 60 grit paper and sand till the marker is gone (I use a broken piece of a flat file), then wipe with brake cleaner

now the new silicone has a pristine surface with some bite to adhere to

and do agree, a thin smear of 3M weather strip adhesive does work great

dimple the end rail surface of the block & the intake manifold. Lay a bead of P-tex Ultra Black on that surface. THIN bead of silicone around the intake ports, Thin bead of Hylomar around the water ports. Check & retorque at 25 miles, again at about 100 mi. Drive