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Old 03-07-2012, 06:54 PM
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Best aftermarket sheetmetal

I'm looking for some aftermarket sheetmetal for my 69 camaro. I know that factory is best but I'm building a driver not a show car. Is there any one brand that is better than the other or is the quality about the same? AMD, Goodmark, and tons of jap brands out there. What do you bodyshop guys think??

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Old 03-08-2012, 08:39 AM
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I've used several different reboxers of the sheetmetal and the majority cover the same manufacturing plant sticker with their own sticker.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:46 AM
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First let's discuss WHY you need new sheetmetal. I have seen a LOT of people who replace a fender because there is some rust, or a door because it has a big dent only to learn (or not understand even then) that it would have been MUCH easier to repair what they had then to try (often failing) to fit the repro part anywhere near as nice as the original did.

Why are wanting to replace these parts?

Brian
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:21 PM
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I'm pretty sure my fenders are older aftermarket units anyway and the quarters have been replaced also. The fenders are full of bondo and rusted at the bottoms. The quarters have popped out at the body line and could be repaired but long term would need replacing. I would hate to paint the car then have the quarters to pop out again. If my fenders turn out to be GM then the cost to fix them vs aftermarket cost would be the factor. Considering the cost to align the aftermaket vs repair the ones I have.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:20 PM
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For front fenders try finding some good used OEM ones with as little repair work as possible theres still a few around ,I've never had any luck with goodmarks fenders the extra cost is well worth it in time lost making the repops fit ,it hard enough for a pro but close to imposable for a non pro...
the goodmark half 1/4s are at best hit and missyou never know HOW bad they'll fit but the fit is never good if you need 1/4s get the full 1/4s and use what you need and through the rest of it away because from the body line up dosent fit well or look right . I always use the full 1/4,cut down the fit is much much better. For me its easier to splice the 1/4 about 3/4 -1' down from the body line with a flanged joint for strength and least amount of warpage.I know it sounds lke a waste,cutting down a 500.00 1/4 but its really not ....So after trying it many ways on many cars I get the best results with the least amount of work using full goodmark 1/4s and used OEM fenders.
I did a goodmark door skin not long ago and was dreading the job But I was pleasently surprised at how well that one fit...
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:50 PM
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I forgot about the 1/4's I just put on a 68 non-Camaro Ford ponycar coupe this winter. They were ordered through Laurel Mountain Mustang parts and fit remarkably well with crisp lines that flowed well into the door lines. This was the first set of quarters I've replaced that actually fit like they were supposed to and looked factory when done.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:34 AM
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for Mustangs, I get Dynacorn whenever I can. Not that Dynacorn is perfect by any means, but the quality is still quite a bit better than the other producer or two, Golden Legion and maybe another one.
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:29 AM
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If Dynacorn is the "better" of them, HOLY CRAP. I used a Dynacorn fender and rad support on a 67 Mustang a few years ago and it was CA-RAP OMG it was such garbage. Like I said, I LOATH repro parts and will do anything to avoid it. When I think of the newbes who will buy a repro deck lid or something for their Camaro or Mustang because the original one they have needs some work it is such a shame.

FIX THE ORIGINAL stuff guys, you don't know work until you tried to make repro parts fit and look like the originals, now THAT'S work.

Brian
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:11 AM
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Brian is right about a lot of the re-pro stuff. Floorboards, inner fenders, maybe OK. I looked at a 67 Chevelle the other day a friend is working on, the owner had both quarters replaced, the contour is different from the lower half down. They were installed already, my buddy gets the job of making it right, he told the guy it would be cheaper to buy new quarters. There's a few grand down the crapper. For the Chevelle guys, we've had good luck with this place:http://www.trueconnections.com/catalog
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
If Dynacorn is the "better" of them, HOLY CRAP. I used a Dynacorn fender and rad support on a 67 Mustang a few years ago and it was CA-RAP OMG it was such garbage. Like I said, I LOATH repro parts and will do anything to avoid it. When I think of the newbes who will buy a repro deck lid or something for their Camaro or Mustang because the original one they have needs some work it is such a shame.

FIX THE ORIGINAL stuff guys, you don't know work until you tried to make repro parts fit and look like the originals, now THAT'S work.

Brian
Don't even attempt the non-Dynacorn stuff then. I've had to put quite a bit of new metal on my Mustang....new quarters on both sides, door skin, tail light panel, trunk drop down, trunk deck lid, rear trunk brace, radiator support, fender skirt, strut rod support, front and rear valances, and a floor pan. The hood is also a reproduction piece that was on it when I got the car.

Needless to say, reproduction metal is the BANE of my existence when I'm working on my car. NOT A FAN AT ALL and I go Ford tooling, NOS, or a part off a junk car whenever I can. Based on my experiences and from vendors I've talked to, the quality among pieces even from the same manufacturer is very inconsistent. The right fender can be very good, while their left fender can be a horrible stamp. I actually bought a junker door with a smaller hole rusted in the bottom front corner than the hole my original door had, then repaired that rust hole and reskinned it rather than getting a new door. And now I'm taking off that skin and putting on a new one because it was a bad skin.

With that being said, my tail lamp panel, my trunk lid, and the hood that came on it are good pieces and fit and look perfectly. The full quarters weren't terrible but did require some work. The door skin was another story. I bought one of the cheapie $30 front valances when I first started this project and finally got around to doing the test fit. I was honestly planning on laughing at my attempt to get this thing to actually fit and just throw it away. I'll be damned if it didn't actually fit just right.

The quarter skins are a major no no. I bought one, it didn't have the recess stamped out for the valance so I threw that one out, bought a full quarter and cut it down to a skin and life was much better. My Mustang was from California and didn't have a lick of rust on it (save for the pinholes in the floor pan) but below half inches of body filler EVERYWHERE it looked like this car has been through a pop can crusher. Had been in several good collisions and was literally hacked together. My only choice was to replace those panels.
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
I forgot about the 1/4's I just put on a 68 non-Camaro Ford ponycar coupe this winter. They were ordered through Laurel Mountain Mustang parts and fit remarkably well with crisp lines that flowed well into the door lines. This was the first set of quarters I've replaced that actually fit like they were supposed to and looked factory when done.
Now thats something worth saving .Those stangs are tough to get good panels for..."Laurel Mountain Mustang Parts"
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:33 PM
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Is a can of Nason better if you buy it at the 'DuPont' store or O'reilly auto parts? That's really what it breaks down to with Mustang sheet metal at least. It's almost irrelevant where it's purchased because there's only a few manufacturers making all the sheet metal, which then gets distributed through brokers. Laurel's is probably getting their sheet metal through the same place all the other mustang suppliers do because I know they're not making their own.

National Parts Depot is almost my preferred sheet metal vendor now because it's not uncommon for them to have several different options of the same piece, such as 'improved tooling, thicker metal', etc.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:26 PM
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Just finishing up a 67 mustang fastback that the owner did all the metal work on. This guy spent more time cutting and moving every single panel around to get the correct gaps, body lines, you name it and it was moved around. Then I had the task of all the bodywork to take over after he got it as best he could in raw sheetmetal. And let me tell you these cars have A LOT of bodylines. Not an easy job for someone who knows what they are doing, let alone somebody with limited skills and or tools. Like every one else has said the aftermarket sheetmetal just does not have the same crisp stampings as do the originals and if your looking for exceptional results you are in for a surprise. Anyway on this particular project between the both of us the hours are in the thousands. It can be done just be prepared to sacrifice a lot of time to get it just right.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:53 AM
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I have 2 quarter skins (67 Firebird) sitting in my garage - a Goodmark and a Golden Legion. The Goodmark skin is notably better. The stampings are crisp and clean vs. the soft lines on the Golden Legion. Frankly, I considered replacing the whole quarter or using a skin, but I think I will ultimately either take it to a shop and have them work the factory metal or just cut up the skins and patch it as most of my original quarter metal is good...and most guys I have talked to say "Save as much original sheetmetal as possible".

I also have a NOS GM front fender, but even that isn't perfect. I snagged it a few years ago when GM was discontinuing them and I felt compelled to pick it up before I could no longer get one. I can tell the body lines on it are softer than my old fender (no doubt becasue the dies had been used a billion times and were getting soft). If my original fender didn't have a bunch of issues I would consider re-using it.

Finally, as others have said, you might be able to look at a panel off a car and tell the obvious stuff (like stamping sharpness), but you can't eyeball it and tell if it will fit right. The QA seems to be getting better, but even so you might have one guy with no issues and the next guy has a totally different experience.

You only have original sheetmetal once...
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:47 AM
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As far as your nos fender. From back when I worked at a chev dealer in the early 70's we were told the dealer parts were stuff rejected for Assembly line use.
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