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Old 05-14-2006, 08:13 PM
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Best AIR LINE FILTER for HVLP guns!

Here is a topic that I have not seem much information on. I have a new bulb filter at the gun but I am still getting water bubbles in paint! What is the best air line filter to use? I see that they are rated by micron's. Devilbiss has one that is 5 micron's! I am looking at a filter on eBay that is 1 micron and has 1/2" inlet and 1/2" outlet but it doesn't say how many cfm's it is able to handle. I would like one that is 1/2" in and 1/2" out because that is the hose size I am running. What do you folks suggest?

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Old 05-14-2006, 08:37 PM
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I would suggest you read the tons info that has been posted recently on how to remove the moisture from from your air lines! You need a water separator/regulator in you air line between the gun and compressor! The "bulb" filter at the gun is you final defense it should not be the only separator used! Water can be a big problem if your air plumbing is not up to par!

There is a really good diagram here on how to run air lines to remove moisture along with discussions on water traps
Water in compressor lines???

Last edited by oldred; 05-14-2006 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:23 AM
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Sounds like you're trying to solve the symptom instead of the problem.
If you're having that much problems with water your main problem
sounds like heat, your air is to hot and not cooled down before the filter/gun.
If you have a small compressor that runs most of the time this can be
a major problem, overheating the air.
The cure is metal piping long enough to cool it down before the filter.
Many run copper or galvanized pipe 10 to 20 ft along the wall before hooking
to the hose, with a filter at the end of the pipe.
Also a fan blowing on the compressor fins can help keep it cool.
Here's a filter I really like that can be removed and dried and reused
a few times I use a trap filter before it to get most of the water first.

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/moto...otorguard.html
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:30 AM
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If you can't run a lot of metal line then maybe a cooler would solve the problem. I know of one guy who uses an A/C evaporator core from a Ranger pick-up and then there is this.

http://www.dune-buggy.com/webs/Off-R...ompressor.html

OMT provided that link a while back and I thought it looked like a great idea, similar to the A/C core mentioned but sturdier and easier. Another simple, but temporary, fix if you are running a hose directly from the compressor would be to coil a length of it in a container of water (which will act as a cooler) before it reaches the water separator. I am assuming you are using another separator besides the filter at the gun? If not then Harbor Freight has some pretty good ones at really good prices so if you don't have one yet that will be the first thing you will need to do to solve the problem. Water is probably the no. one problem with compressors but it need not be with just a few simple precautions and inexpensive parts. While the big expensive refrigerated air driers are nice they really are not necessary and as JC pointed out it is just a matter of cooling the air before it reaches the separator.

One thing I noticed about that set-up is that the guy welded his mounts to the TANK NEVER,EVER weld anything to a tank! He has destroyed his tank. His idea in principle is good but welding it to that tank was just plain dumb besides being very dangerous.
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:19 PM
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air dryer

I am tag teaming with cheap(economically priced) ones. a $20 big blue "devilbiss" copy from HF on the tank and 50 ft away a $50 one from Lowes and a little plastic wirlwind on the gun. I the tank gets hot but the first filter gets most of it out. I really bought the big blue one for keeping the air dry when sandblasting but never take it off. Now if I can keep my sweat out of the paint job??
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Old 05-15-2006, 09:47 PM
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I have a spare trans cooler sitting around and was thinking of putting it on my 2stage 80gal kobalt to help cool it down some. Do you think that a trans cooler will hold that type of air pressure? I know it holds trans fluid but it seems that the air compressor might be more volatile?
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Old 05-15-2006, 10:50 PM
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Fat, I would think that trans cooler would hold up just fine however I would never recommend to anyone to use a non-standard part like that trans cooler without testing it first. If your compressor max pressure is as much as 175 PSI I would want to test it to around 225 just to be sure but if yours is only around 135 or so then 150-175 PSI test pressure should be ok. Just be sure your fittings are safe and up to the job. The A/C core I mentioned earlier was tested to around 150 PSI if I remember correctly and I doubt it would hold as much pressure as that trany cooler assuming the cooler has steel tubes. If the tubes in the cooler are aluminum I would be hesitant to use it over 125 PSI or so and I certainly would test it to a higher pressure than it would ever be exposed to. The more I think about it I would have to discourage the use of something like that A/C core as I think it may be unsafe, at least for pressures one might find on a two stage compressor. I have mentioned that set-up using the evaporator core a number of times here but my intention was to describe what can work and I was not recommending the use of an A/C core. One more thing to consider when plumbing the trany cooler is to make sure the connecting lines are flexible so they will not break from vibration. If you can locate the cooler a few feet from the compressor outlet and use a small fan for air flow it should help considerably but a properly plumbed system using metal lines should be used also if possible.
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acsteve
I am tag teaming with cheap(economically priced) ones. a $20 big blue "devilbiss" copy from HF on the tank and 50 ft away a $50 one from Lowes and a little plastic wirlwind on the gun. I the tank gets hot but the first filter gets most of it out. I really bought the big blue one for keeping the air dry when sandblasting but never take it off. Now if I can keep my sweat out of the paint job??
Yeah, same route I'm going for us underdogs. I did notice on the $20 big blue #01118 it only filters up to 40 microns. Air outlet 1/4", air inlet 1/2", the Sharpe regulators measure the same and even look the same too. But can add another $50 on price for that. So I bought 2 big blues for $40, and used one of its regs to put on the $44 Sharpe F88, wich can be advertised as 10 micron, but Gun Doctor says its actually 5 micron. And made my own fittings for the 1/2" inlet.

Ive gotta say its a fun thing to do. Here some more angle pics that I didn't show in the Water in compressor lines thread to help with some ideas. The long L brackets I found around the house. They used to be for a basketball hoop outside on top of the garage. I had to fab them to work with the filter. Both hose reels 4 hole brackets were luckily flush with the L brackets.







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Old 05-16-2006, 01:31 PM
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A desicant snake after your water seperators is cheap insurance, $15 and they do work with very little restriction of air flow.
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