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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2002, 04:02 PM
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78 monte - the reason for running the engine at 2000 rpm upon start-up is to splash plenty of oil up to the cam and lifters. After the 20 minute "run-in" the normal amount of oil that gets up there is adequate.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2002, 09:25 PM
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I set the valves on the stand. i used the Comp method of cam base circle. I don't hear so good, so setting wet is ify for me. For better or worse, I've put non-detergent 30#, with 1 pint of EOS. Pre-oiled it tonight. It's sitting there, waiting for tomorrow.i think It will do OK on break in. Thanks to everyone.
One conflicting point; Instructions with ring set (molys), say to go from idle to medium rev 10 times in succesion to seat rings. Hmmmm? Rings or cam?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2002, 07:02 AM
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4jawchuck, I follow what your talking about.

Talking about lawn mowers or any small engine I always run them at fast idle for about an hour an then drain oil to remove metal particles.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2002, 01:35 PM
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if you want to know everything in the world about why cam anything go to <a href="http://www.cranecams.com" target="_blank">www.cranecams.com</a> and click on installation instructions. "not less than 1500 rpm for half hour min..." different than 2000 rpm for 20 min, but that was what my non-crane cam installation instructions read. as for rings or cam...CAM!!! then worry about your rings. ps, never heard of eos or mos but take it it's some kind of additive
:o I AM ADDING THIS, IF YOU GO TO ABOVE CRANE WEB SITE IN ADDITION TO WHAT I QUOTED IT ALSO STATES TO VARY RPM GREATLY DURING THIS "CAM" BREAK IN (while staying over 1500 rpm). THIS WOULD TAKE CARE OF THE RINGS TOO I IMAGINE, SO I RECTUM THIS WOULD BE THE BEST METHOD. I'VE NEVER DONE IT THIS WAY THO & AINT NEVER LUNCHED A CAM YET, OR HAD ANY BROKEN RINGS - DITTO FOR EVERYONE ELSE I'M SURE. :p

[ October 02, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2002, 10:56 AM
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The reason for increasing the rpm to seat the rings is because at higher engine speeds the piston/rods can experience slight stretch, all of the bearing clearance is taken up for sure and the rings should be traveling to the limits within the grooves. If broken it at normal (low) idle speed, there can be a microscopic ridge at the top of the rings travel. When the car is taken out and throttle is mashed, then the rings will hit these break-in ridges and kill the ring seal. Whether the cam is broken in at 1500 rpm for 30 minutes or 2000 for 20 minutes, makes no difference the result is the same. You are elevating the engine speed enough to get additional oil up to the cam and lifters.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2002, 06:04 PM
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I would not make coating the bearings with cam lube a habit. Most cam lubes have molibdium(not sure on spelling) in them that basically polishes the cam and wears it in. This is unfavorable on bearings as they dont need to wear in. The isky cam lube is the best I have seen on a side note as it has alot of "grit" to it to polish things up, and is also very thick so it doesnt just run off. Comp Cams stuff sucks. I have lost two Comp cams after a routine 20-30 minute breakin. I dont use their lube any more.
Chris

[quote]Originally posted by Ted655:
<strong>Not to worry1 i used the lube Isky sent with the cam. I lubed all valvetrain components with it. I also lubed the main and throws with an assembly lube. I will use a prelube tool just befre we stab the motor. So..just go with the 30# for break in, then the multi wt. Delo?? </strong><hr></blockquote>
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Old 10-01-2002, 06:55 PM
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Turbo; Cam lube on the cam. "engine assembly lube" on the engine. Two different products. Sorry I wasn't more clear. :o
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2002, 07:44 PM
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Turbos10: Molybdenum disulfide is actually a wear inhibitor, it is in almost all engine assembly lubes. Ever heard of moly-lube?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2002, 07:31 AM
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That is correct, Molybdenum Disulfide is like millions of tiny marbles and actually works like ball bearings. Sometimes the moly will fall out of suspension with the other lubricants in engine assembly lube and collect at the bottom of the container. Recommend that the engine lube container be turned upside down for a few hours before use. Cam lube still shouldn't be used on engine bearings tho, as it is too thick to work properly. Proper engine assembly will require three different types of assembly lube: (1) Cam lube for lobes, lifter BOTTOMS, pushrod ends, rocker arm (pushrod end, valve end AND ball if using stock type), valve stem FACE. (2) Engine Assembly Lube for cam bearing journals, rod & main journals, valve stems, distributor drive gears (cam & dist), fuel pump pushrod, lifter body AND lifter bores in block, piston pins, oil pump gears. (3) 30# Motor Oil for cylinder bores, piston rings (after assemblying on pistons), crankshaft seals.
A final note: use a good quality, extreme pressure engine assembly lube. The white stuff that comes in a tube is not extreme pressure and is not suited for engine assembly (IMO), but it does work real well for assemblying fishing reels.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2002, 07:43 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by BstMech:
<strong>Turbos10: Molybdenum disulfide is actually a wear inhibitor, it is in almost all engine assembly lubes. Ever heard of moly-lube? </strong><hr></blockquote>

Yep, call me a *******. After a couple beers this evening, my brain seems to be engaged.


Chris
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