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Old 09-25-2002, 08:46 PM
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Post Best breakin lube??

Getting ready to fire up my 350. I had planned on some Delo oil with a qt. of Chevrolet EOS in it. My local Chevy dealer "don't have, can't or won't get it" The dolt tried to sell me MOS. So...what's next best thing? Lucas?.
While I'm asking...Isky did not include a breakin procedure with all their other instructions. I'd like to hear advice on cam breakin. Thanks

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Old 09-26-2002, 09:37 AM
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you can't be talkin bout cam break in lube cause youre already going to start it. just any ol 30 wgt oil since youre gonna drain it after 20 minutes at 2200 rpm.
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Old 09-26-2002, 09:57 AM
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If you put in sythetics or any additive you will ruin your engine. It needs to break-in, and it can't do that without a little bit of friction. Just use a decent 10w40 for the first 1000KM, then put the good stuff in. To break in your cam you need to run the engine a 2000 rpm for a minimum of 20 minutes. If you didn't grease-up your cam when you installed it, you should at least pre-lube your engine with an old distributor and a drill.

Good luck
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Old 09-26-2002, 10:11 AM
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Not to worry1 i used the lube Isky sent with the cam. I lubed all valvetrain components with it. I also lubed the main and throws with an assembly lube. I will use a prelube tool just befre we stab the motor. So..just go with the 30# for break in, then the multi wt. Delo??
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Old 09-26-2002, 09:22 PM
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I use nothing but straight weight non detergent oil for break-in and change that twice during the run-in part. The reason for non detergent oil is you want to get rid of the particles of bore and cam break-in goop and detergent disperses the particles and holds it in suspension. In non detergent oil it falls to the bottom of the pan and settles out, when you drain everything goes with it. The first 100 miles of all my engines run straight weight non detergent mineral oil 30wt and then you can run synthetic, most of the break-in has occured by then and particle shedding has disappeared.

Works for me.
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Old 09-27-2002, 06:48 AM
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4jaw wouldn't you want the oil to hold the particles in suspension so it will remove particles better when drained and not sit on the bottom of the pan? But I guess if the oil held particles in suspension than you would have particles moving around in the engine.

I'm curious about the oil too I'm near completion and installation of my 350.

[ September 27, 2002: Message edited by: MHenricks ]</p>
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Old 09-27-2002, 10:56 AM
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did you say you lubed your mains with cam lube? not advised from posts ive read as it hinders oil
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Old 09-27-2002, 06:04 PM
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I use 10w-30 mineral oil on my street engines, I use lubriplate assembly lube on the bearing surfaces, and valve guides, and I use high pressure Schneider camshaft lube on the cam and timing chain.
I will immediately change the oil after the initial run-in, and I will usually change the oil two more times before it reaches 500 miles.
On pure racing engines, I use 20w-50 Kendall GT-1 Racing oil, and change it after the first dyno pull. Oil is cheap, change it often.
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Old 09-27-2002, 06:57 PM
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...Bullheimer; Cam lube on the valve train. Syenthetic assembly lube on the crank parts. Found some EOS. Will add that to my break in oil, then drain, then Mobile 1. I notice no one said the word Lucas. From their website, you'd think everyone used it. Hmmmm?
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Old 09-27-2002, 07:01 PM
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Lucas Brothers oil is some pretty good stuff, but their oil stabilizer is alot like STP, which makes a pretty good assembly lube. Their transmission additive is one of the few products you can pour in and actually feel a difference.
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Old 09-28-2002, 01:42 AM
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MHenricks, the theory is with a dispersant acting on the particles they tend to "stick" to the engine and not drain. I guess the similie is when you add detergent to oily water the oil disperses and adheres to the sink. This is the way most aircraft radial engines are run in, run-in should be easy and light since there are no high pressure additives to protect the high spots.

Just an opinion learned from many old timers in the biz, has always worked for me. When you drain the oil you can actually see the particles floating in the oil, scared the hell out of me the first time I seen how much there was. When I did my lawn mower the oil came out looking like metallic silver paint!
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Old 09-28-2002, 10:32 AM
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I allways dip the bearings in 10w40 as I assembe coat the cylinder walls in oil.Then I put cam lube on,soak the lifters in oil overnight, prime the motor,Start it with no valve covers on and adjust the valves.I've never had any problems doing it this way.I never run the motor at 2000 rpm I feel thats an accident waiting to happen.I was allways taught to baby the motor as much s possible for the first 3000k.Change oil frequently.I allwas use just straight 10w40.
But this is just the way I was taught I'mn not an engine builder this is just how I build engines.
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Old 09-28-2002, 11:27 AM
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78monte: Do you think that race motors are "***** footed" for 3000 miles before they are raced? An engine is "broke in" as soon as you break in the cam, whis is not just an accident waiting to happen. As far as running the engine with the valve covers off to adjust the rockers, that's OK if you like a big mess under your hood (even with those stupid "clips"). I always adjust the rockers with the motor OFF, it's simple to do and no mess. All you have to do is follow the firing order, and in less than two turns of the crank yer all done ( no "special sequence" to remember). I'm not trying to bust your balls or anything, but try getting more than just one opinion on things. That's what is good about this site, EVERYONE can learn an easier or more proper way to do things. If you ( or anybody else for that matter) would like, I will tell you exactly how to adjust your valves with the motor still on the stand even. Later.
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Old 09-28-2002, 03:49 PM
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Oil opinions is akin to ***holes, everybody has one, and they are all different. I once had an old bum that sold me an OPEN sign for my shop tell me that peanut oil is the best thing for an engine, I tried not to laugh, and handed him the five bucks for the sign, not just any sign, but a "plastic metal" sign as he called it.
Yes, peanut oil is a closely guarded secret, high smoking point and gives your bearings a succulent, savory taste. I suppose if I were dying in the desert, and needed oil, I would try it, but for now, I'll stick to Pennz or Valvoline, ect.
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Old 09-28-2002, 03:57 PM
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That's where the term "The crank ate my bearings" came from, must be the peanut oil!
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