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Best breakin lube??

3K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  TurboS10 
#1 ·
:confused: Getting ready to fire up my 350. I had planned on some Delo oil with a qt. of Chevrolet EOS in it. My local Chevy dealer "don't have, can't or won't get it" The dolt tried to sell me MOS. So...what's next best thing? Lucas?.
While I'm asking...Isky did not include a breakin procedure with all their other instructions. I'd like to hear advice on cam breakin. Thanks :)
 
#3 ·
If you put in sythetics or any additive you will ruin your engine. It needs to break-in, and it can't do that without a little bit of friction. Just use a decent 10w40 for the first 1000KM, then put the good stuff in. To break in your cam you need to run the engine a 2000 rpm for a minimum of 20 minutes. If you didn't grease-up your cam when you installed it, you should at least pre-lube your engine with an old distributor and a drill.

Good luck
 
#4 ·
Not to worry1 i used the lube Isky sent with the cam. I lubed all valvetrain components with it. I also lubed the main and throws with an assembly lube. I will use a prelube tool just befre we stab the motor. So..just go with the 30# for break in, then the multi wt. Delo?? :)
 
#5 ·
I use nothing but straight weight non detergent oil for break-in and change that twice during the run-in part. The reason for non detergent oil is you want to get rid of the particles of bore and cam break-in goop and detergent disperses the particles and holds it in suspension. In non detergent oil it falls to the bottom of the pan and settles out, when you drain everything goes with it. The first 100 miles of all my engines run straight weight non detergent mineral oil 30wt and then you can run synthetic, most of the break-in has occured by then and particle shedding has disappeared.

Works for me.
 
#6 ·
4jaw wouldn't you want the oil to hold the particles in suspension so it will remove particles better when drained and not sit on the bottom of the pan? But I guess if the oil held particles in suspension than you would have particles moving around in the engine.

I'm curious about the oil too I'm near completion and installation of my 350.

[ September 27, 2002: Message edited by: MHenricks ]</p>
 
#8 ·
I use 10w-30 mineral oil on my street engines, I use lubriplate assembly lube on the bearing surfaces, and valve guides, and I use high pressure Schneider camshaft lube on the cam and timing chain.
I will immediately change the oil after the initial run-in, and I will usually change the oil two more times before it reaches 500 miles.
On pure racing engines, I use 20w-50 Kendall GT-1 Racing oil, and change it after the first dyno pull. Oil is cheap, change it often.
 
#9 ·
...Bullheimer; Cam lube on the valve train. Syenthetic assembly lube on the crank parts. Found some EOS. Will add that to my break in oil, then drain, then Mobile 1. I notice no one said the word Lucas. From their website, you'd think everyone used it. Hmmmm? :confused: :D
 
#11 ·
MHenricks, the theory is with a dispersant acting on the particles they tend to "stick" to the engine and not drain. I guess the similie is when you add detergent to oily water the oil disperses and adheres to the sink. This is the way most aircraft radial engines are run in, run-in should be easy and light since there are no high pressure additives to protect the high spots.

Just an opinion learned from many old timers in the biz, has always worked for me. When you drain the oil you can actually see the particles floating in the oil, scared the hell out of me the first time I seen how much there was. When I did my lawn mower the oil came out looking like metallic silver paint!
 
#12 ·
I allways dip the bearings in 10w40 as I assembe coat the cylinder walls in oil.Then I put cam lube on,soak the lifters in oil overnight, prime the motor,Start it with no valve covers on and adjust the valves.I've never had any problems doing it this way.I never run the motor at 2000 rpm I feel thats an accident waiting to happen.I was allways taught to baby the motor as much s possible for the first 3000k.Change oil frequently.I allwas use just straight 10w40.
But this is just the way I was taught I'mn not an engine builder this is just how I build engines.
 
#13 ·
78monte: Do you think that race motors are "***** footed" for 3000 miles before they are raced? An engine is "broke in" as soon as you break in the cam, whis is not just an accident waiting to happen. As far as running the engine with the valve covers off to adjust the rockers, that's OK if you like a big mess under your hood (even with those stupid "clips"). I always adjust the rockers with the motor OFF, it's simple to do and no mess. All you have to do is follow the firing order, and in less than two turns of the crank yer all done ( no "special sequence" to remember). I'm not trying to bust your balls or anything, but try getting more than just one opinion on things. That's what is good about this site, EVERYONE can learn an easier or more proper way to do things. :) If you ( or anybody else for that matter) would like, I will tell you exactly how to adjust your valves with the motor still on the stand even. Later. :)
 
#14 ·
Oil opinions is akin to ***holes, everybody has one, and they are all different. I once had an old bum that sold me an OPEN sign for my shop tell me that peanut oil is the best thing for an engine, I tried not to laugh, and handed him the five bucks for the sign, not just any sign, but a "plastic metal" sign as he called it.
Yes, peanut oil is a closely guarded secret, high smoking point and gives your bearings a succulent, savory taste. I suppose if I were dying in the desert, and needed oil, I would try it, but for now, I'll stick to Pennz or Valvoline, ect.
 
#16 ·
78 monte - the reason for running the engine at 2000 rpm upon start-up is to splash plenty of oil up to the cam and lifters. After the 20 minute "run-in" the normal amount of oil that gets up there is adequate.
 
#17 ·
I set the valves on the stand. i used the Comp method of cam base circle. I don't hear so good, so setting wet is ify for me. For better or worse, I've put non-detergent 30#, with 1 pint of EOS. Pre-oiled it tonight. It's sitting there, waiting for tomorrow.i think It will do OK on break in. Thanks to everyone.
One conflicting point; Instructions with ring set (molys), say to go from idle to medium rev 10 times in succesion to seat rings. Hmmmm? Rings or cam? :confused: :mad:
 
#19 ·
if you want to know everything in the world about why cam anything go to <a href="http://www.cranecams.com" target="_blank">www.cranecams.com</a> and click on installation instructions. "not less than 1500 rpm for half hour min..." different than 2000 rpm for 20 min, but that was what my non-crane cam installation instructions read. as for rings or cam...CAM!!! then worry about your rings. ps, never heard of eos or mos but take it it's some kind of additive
:eek: I AM ADDING THIS, IF YOU GO TO ABOVE CRANE WEB SITE IN ADDITION TO WHAT I QUOTED IT ALSO STATES TO VARY RPM GREATLY DURING THIS "CAM" BREAK IN (while staying over 1500 rpm). THIS WOULD TAKE CARE OF THE RINGS TOO I IMAGINE, SO I RECTUM THIS WOULD BE THE BEST METHOD. I'VE NEVER DONE IT THIS WAY THO & AINT NEVER LUNCHED A CAM YET, OR HAD ANY BROKEN RINGS - DITTO FOR EVERYONE ELSE I'M SURE. :p

[ October 02, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>
 
#20 ·
The reason for increasing the rpm to seat the rings is because at higher engine speeds the piston/rods can experience slight stretch, all of the bearing clearance is taken up for sure and the rings should be traveling to the limits within the grooves. If broken it at normal (low) idle speed, there can be a microscopic ridge at the top of the rings travel. When the car is taken out and throttle is mashed, then the rings will hit these break-in ridges and kill the ring seal. Whether the cam is broken in at 1500 rpm for 30 minutes or 2000 for 20 minutes, makes no difference the result is the same. You are elevating the engine speed enough to get additional oil up to the cam and lifters.
 
#21 ·
I would not make coating the bearings with cam lube a habit. Most cam lubes have molibdium(not sure on spelling) in them that basically polishes the cam and wears it in. This is unfavorable on bearings as they dont need to wear in. The isky cam lube is the best I have seen on a side note as it has alot of "grit" to it to polish things up, and is also very thick so it doesnt just run off. Comp Cams stuff sucks. I have lost two Comp cams after a routine 20-30 minute breakin. I dont use their lube any more.
Chris

Originally posted by Ted655:
<strong>Not to worry1 i used the lube Isky sent with the cam. I lubed all valvetrain components with it. I also lubed the main and throws with an assembly lube. I will use a prelube tool just befre we stab the motor. So..just go with the 30# for break in, then the multi wt. Delo?? :) </strong><hr></blockquote>
 
#24 ·
That is correct, Molybdenum Disulfide is like millions of tiny marbles and actually works like ball bearings. Sometimes the moly will fall out of suspension with the other lubricants in engine assembly lube and collect at the bottom of the container. Recommend that the engine lube container be turned upside down for a few hours before use. Cam lube still shouldn't be used on engine bearings tho, as it is too thick to work properly. Proper engine assembly will require three different types of assembly lube: (1) Cam lube for lobes, lifter BOTTOMS, pushrod ends, rocker arm (pushrod end, valve end AND ball if using stock type), valve stem FACE. (2) Engine Assembly Lube for cam bearing journals, rod & main journals, valve stems, distributor drive gears (cam & dist), fuel pump pushrod, lifter body AND lifter bores in block, piston pins, oil pump gears. (3) 30# Motor Oil for cylinder bores, piston rings (after assemblying on pistons), crankshaft seals.
A final note: use a good quality, extreme pressure engine assembly lube. The white stuff that comes in a tube is not extreme pressure and is not suited for engine assembly (IMO), but it does work real well for assemblying fishing reels.
 
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