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Old 06-12-2010, 04:08 PM
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Best Budget 383 crankshaft

Hello, I was looking to upgrade my 355 with the 60103 lunati cam Brodix Ik

200's, I was looking around for a new 3.75 stroke crank to use with 5.7'' rods

and internal balance.I was looking at scat website but they don't have any

unless I go to the 6.0'' rods, after I looked on summit and the only crankshaft I

could find for my application was Eagle and I heard (also read on here) that

they are made very poorly. I have a budget of $400 without machine work so

forged isn't necessary. Should I go with the Eagle or some other company. T

Thanks

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Old 06-12-2010, 04:22 PM
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scat does have what you need. Speedway motors part number 91513755 - cast steel for 229 bucks. Note- most all cranks are cast / forged in China and turned in usa.
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Old 06-12-2010, 04:29 PM
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Right on thanks but I forgot to post the my motor is a 2 piece rear main
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Old 06-12-2010, 06:21 PM
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For what it's worth, I just installed an Eagle Cast/steel crank in a smallblock along with Scat rods, the machine-work from one end to the other was absolutely dead on.
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Old 06-12-2010, 06:35 PM
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the quality of a rotating part doesn't mean **** brand new out of the box. Its 1-200,000 miles later when you are ready for a rebuild when a good crank will shine. I went through the same thing building my 383. I ended up with a scat crank and 5.7 scat rods, I am 1 piece.

How about this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-910375/

Last edited by crussell85; 06-12-2010 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 06-12-2010, 07:01 PM
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Yes, I agree, the real test is how a part holds up over time, but if the machine work is good it has a better chance than a part with obvious flaws.....
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:08 PM
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i have a scat crank 3.75 crank in my motor now, but i have used an eagle 3.75 crank before in another build and was completely happy with them. by the time i sold that truck i had over 60K on the motor, and it still ran just fine, oh and i put that truck trough hell.

oh about building a 383 to go 200K not that it can't be done or that it hasn't been done but when most people build 383's they do it for performance and typically a performance motor will not last 200K no matter how often you change the oil, as performance motors tend to get beat on and eventually something in there is going to break before 200K
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:37 PM
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I am new to the performance automotive arena, but, as an aircraft mechanic, I have seen the difference quality materials make over time. I regularly see high quality components damaged by something as simple as a cheap nut or washer that was used to save pennies but cost hundreds in the long run. If you choose good quality components throughout the engine, I expect that the long term result would be better. Of course, sometimes **** just happens.
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:38 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-935056/
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:22 AM
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Thanks Techinspector1, will this crank work with 5.7'' rods or just the 6.0'' rods?
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deiselpower
Thanks Techinspector1, will this crank work with 5.7'' rods or just the 6.0'' rods?
it should work with both.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85
the quality of a rotating part doesn't mean **** brand new out of the box. Its 1-200,000 miles later when you are ready for a rebuild when a good crank will shine. I went through the same thing building my 383. I ended up with a scat crank and 5.7 scat rods, I am 1 piece.

How about this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-910375/
I bought a "CAT" crank a few years ago and it was a complete POS right out of the box. I dumped it and bought a Summit crank ( by SCAT ) and the difference was night and day. The "SCAT" was almost too nice to hide inside and engine.

Not trying to worry the OP but I've heard of some issues with some of the lower end Eagle cranks as well. I'd have it checked by a reliable machine shop.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deiselpower
Thanks Techinspector1, will this crank work with 5.7'' rods or just the 6.0'' rods?
The notes for that listing say 6" rod only.

You will have a hard time finding an internal balance 5.7" rod 3.75" stroke crank, the reason that they are external balance to start with is there is not enough room to put the needed weight inside the crankcase on the counterwieghts because they will then be too big to clear the bottom of the piston at BDC with a 5.7" rod. About your only choice is to buy the external balance for 5.7" rods and have the balance shop convert it to internal by adding Mallory metal slugs to the counterweights

Why are you so worried about having internal balance?? The 350 and smaller SBC's are about the only 60's thru 80's V8 engines that ARE internal balance, virtually everything else - Ford, Chrysler, etc is external balance without problems.

Seems to be way too much importance placed on getting an internal balance crank just for a 383 SBC if you ask me. Unless it is going to see constant 8000rpm like a circle track car you are wasting your money. Big expense for very little gain.
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:04 PM
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I'm not the stroker expert, but about the only way you'll be able to internally balance is if you use a crank that is weighted for 5.7" rods and put 6" rods on it. That's what I'm doing.

I'm using a forged RPM 5.7 crank (chinese) with set of 6" Scat H-beam forged rods. I found a screaming deal on the package from a kid who bought the parts new and couldn't complete it, but I think the forged crank sells for $370 new.

www.rpmmaxx.com

I'm going internal for the modest gains in reliabilty/harmonics. I'm a reliability freak. The additional cost for internally balancing will be offset by not having to buy an aftermarket balancer/flywheel. My 383 will be an LT1 that won't ever see more than 6000.
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
The notes for that listing say 6" rod only.

You will have a hard time finding an internal balance 5.7" rod 3.75" stroke crank, the reason that they are external balance to start with is there is not enough room to put the needed weight inside the crankcase on the counterwieghts because they will then be too big to clear the bottom of the piston at BDC with a 5.7" rod. About your only choice is to buy the external balance for 5.7" rods and have the balance shop convert it to internal by adding Mallory metal slugs to the counterweights
Thanks Eric, missed the part about the longer rods for that crank. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm not beyond doing a little whittling on the bottom of piston skirts for clearance. I've done it several times before on other motors and never had a problem. Of course, you have to keep the weights the same. I remember taking a half-dollar sized dollop out of some BBC pistons for crank clearance. I put that motor together for a friend of mine and last I heard, he had fragged 3 drivelines, 2 converters and a transmission, but the motor hadn't missed a beat.
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