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-   -   Best Chassis Paint for Strength and UV-resistance? (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/best-chassis-paint-strength-uv-resistance-155027.html)

H1LM002G55 03-15-2009 10:58 AM

Best Chassis Paint for Strength and UV-resistance?
 
Greetings,

I am new to the forum, however, I have been reading articles on here for several years now.

I want to refinish the chassis on my Hummer H1. The chassis is visible, and I would like it to have a strong and durable finish that is also UV-Proof as best as possible to stop fading.

I live in Florida and the salt air is a bit of an issue.

Here are 2 pictures of the chassis/front bumper currently. There is light surface rust on the painted chassis/bumper assembly. It would be difficult to disassemble to send out for a complete power coated treatment.
I would like something that does the following:
1. Kills the rust on an existing, painted surface completely so I never have to worry about rust/surface rust again.
2. Coats the chassis/bumpers in a finish that does not allow rust to grow.
3. Provides extremely durable finish resistant to rocks, wear and tear.
4. Provides optimum UV proof finish to prevent fading, etc...in a semi-gloss black finish.

I have spent several hours on here already reading about POR-15, but I am keeping this vehicle forever and do not want to "put lipstick on a pig". I did not like reading threads of members who applied POR-15, only to sand it down and find the rust still present and the steel weakend.

I have read about the epoxy paints and they seem pretty decent. However, not great for rust from what I understand. I also read about the traditional enamels and the Dupont Chassis Black, Southern Chassis Black, etc...

I have no idea where to start. I have not painted previously, but I am handy. I have a great local paint shop that does work on my vehicles and I am happy to use brush-on finishes as long as they flow evenly and do not show brush strokes/marks.

Thanks for your time. I did my best to read old threads, etc...and the online discussions/articles, but I still do not know what is best for my particular circumstances.

Cheers, C

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/612/chassis002.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/503/chassis001.jpg

willys36@aol.com 03-18-2009 08:29 AM

Are you going to spray what you can reach or do a tear down to bare chassis? Has a bearing on what is suggested.

From your pictures your problem appears to be rusting where the factory did a crappy job of the original paint job in hard to reach places.

#1 answer is to have the frame and all chassis components powder coated whatever color you want. Problem solved. Assuming you are just doing a touch-up, painting whatever you can reach on the assembled car, you are down to a not perfect solution whatever you choose. You can cosmetically finish the spots you can see but I guarantee there are parts you can't see that will continue to rust.

If it were my truck, I would sand the rusty spots to firm metal, coat those spots with a rust converter such as Coroseal (there are a bunch of these products out there), then sand, epoxy prime, and catalyzed urethane color coat/clear coat the whole frame. That is vastly superior to the just-barely factory job and will stop the problem where you can see it.

pepi 03-18-2009 08:50 AM

you may want to check out Eastwoods chassis paint it is very glossy and is chip resistant too road rash ... Just did a frame and have notice while wrenching, cause I get clumsily some days, it will stand up to a wrench smack pretty darn good .. The only down side of this product is the time it COULD take to cure .. needs 70 degrees at least and low hum ,plan not to drive for a day and it becoming spring and all that the stars are aligned ...

OneMoreTime 03-18-2009 10:36 AM

Well i will just take you back to industrial spec on this kind of job..2 wet coats of high quality primer and a topcoat of a UV resistant paint..Just do the best you can to reach all the areas..Powder coat requires the chassis be stripped entirely and is not to me a practical answer..In any event read the instructions that come with the product..

I personally prefer the epoxy primers myself..

Sam

H1LM002G55 03-18-2009 11:38 AM

Thanks everyone for the replies.

1. I am going to spray/brush what I can reach. I do not want to do a tear down.

2. AM General is not known for quality painting. Lots of orange peel on original paint H1's is very common.

3. I do want something Heavy Duty Industrial Grade. Satin Black. That will not fade/look chalky in the sun after time...As you can see from the pictures I posted, that is what happened to the factory finish after a couple of years.

4. Can someone recommend the best system for this? I can get in there pretty wheel for sanding and I am fine using a ruse converter.

5. Will this be a spray on or a brush on solution?

Thanks again for your time.

H1LM002G55 03-18-2009 11:43 AM

Links of What To Buy
 
After I determine the best route with you gents on what to do, It would be very helpful if someone could post links of where I should buy this stuff and what to buy.

I have an Eastwood Catalog already and looked at their stuff. I read for several hours on here and still do not know all of the differences between the products.

I am very willing to read and learn. I just need to be pointed in the right direction.

Thanks again.

H1LM002G55 03-18-2009 11:49 AM

Corroseal Rust Converter looks very nice and easy to use. Integrated converter/primer in one. And it is a brush on.

If I can achieve excellent results while minimizing steps, that would be great for me.

Would I then use a brush-on or a spray-on finish to get a satin-black chassis with UV protection? What products do you recommend for this that are industrial grade that will resist stones, branches, road debris, etc...?

Thanks again.

uncleaud 03-18-2009 12:11 PM

Look at a product called Rust Bullet. They make a black that is called Black shell i believe. Does all the things you are wanting to do. Minimal prep, goes on with a brush or roller and looks great. First rust product that I'v ever used that does what it says it will.


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