[1930u]

Originally Posted by Irelands child

If the Hitachi and DeWalt drill bit came from Lowes, there is a very good chance they have "Made in China" on the package. I have a few with my little quick change electric screwdriver. A reminder - Black & Decker owns DeWalt, their "premium" line

Hitachi is a very good Japanese company but also sub out a lot of their small stuff.

Then there was this Korean made tape measure we were using to put in a power plant IN Korea - five 1/4" increments to the inch.......

I think you're probably right on this one. The retail giants probably don't really care to much about quality. I am currently looking into Sears cobalt, the grainger store bits and the latter posts mention hanson so I will check them out too.

[oldred]

I know it has already been mentioned but if you have not checked out Enco you might want to try them, they have really good bits at some of the better prices to be found.

[matt167]

Originally Posted by Irelands child

If the Hitachi and DeWalt drill bit came from Lowes, there is a very good chance they have "Made in China" on the package. I have a few with my little quick change electric screwdriver. A reminder - Black & Decker owns DeWalt, their "premium" line

Hitachi is a very good Japanese company but also sub out a lot of their small stuff.

Then there was this Korean made tape measure we were using to put in a power plant IN Korea - five 1/4" increments to the inch.......

Black & Decker stuff is pretty good I think.. but DeWalt is crap... The clutches on 18v DeWalt drill/ drives break often.. Harbor freight electric power tools are a joke when it comes to things like drills.. my mom bought a 3/8" keyless drill from HF, there 14.00 1.. #1 it seems like a weakling, and 2.. I got it cought twice and the gears stripped out, granit I was cutting 2.5" holes in sheet metal. It got replaced by a $30 B&D which is awsome

[onebadmerc]

Originally Posted by matt167

Black & Decker stuff is pretty good I think.. but DeWalt is crap... The clutches on 18v DeWalt drill/ drives break often.. Harbor freight electric power tools are a joke when it comes to things like drills.. my mom bought a 3/8" keyless drill from HF, there 14.00 1.. #1 it seems like a weakling, and 2.. I got it cought twice and the gears stripped out, granit I was cutting 2.5" holes in sheet metal. It got replaced by a $30 B&D which is awsome

If you think the B&D stuff is good, try a Milwaukee 1/2 drill.

[matt167]

Originally Posted by onebadmerc

If you think the B&D stuff is good, try a Milwaukee 1/2 drill.

I have an Ancient Craftsmen 1/2" drill, 30 years old or better. full metal case w/ wooden side grips.. that'll break a wrist if your not careful.. I'v gotten it cought a couple times.. and it hurts. no broken wrist tho thankfully.. Tools just don't have the quality anymore.

[onebadmerc]

The Milwaukee 1/2" drill I have, I bought a year ago, surprising as it is this drill was made in the USA. I have heard that even Milwaukee's are now being made in China. The reason I bought this drill is because my 1/2" B&D would not hold the bits tight, I really hate key-less chucks. I also have some metal case vintage B&D drills they were my grandfathers. These drills were probably made in the late 40's early 50's and they still work. The only reason I don't use them much is they don't have a reverse on them and they will give me one heck of a shock every once and a while. I would say that has to do with they need new power cords.

[oldred]

They just don't come any better than Milwaukee and when you buy a Milwaukee tool you are getting top quality! I have never seen a 1/2" drill with more power than the Milwaukee Magnum nor one any better built, those things are brutes.

[matt167]

My old 1/2" craftsmen has reverse, probably made somewhere in the 70's or so. My grandfather has an old Montgomery Ward 1/2" w/ no reverse that's even older, it has more power than the Craftsmen I have. I think it was made somewhere in the 50's/ 60's.

When I was ridgid honing my cylinders for my 200 I6, I used my autoshop class's
newer 1/2" craftsmen high torque, and it got really hot, but didn't have a large load on it at all. it survived but I'm supprised on how hot it was getting.


I'v used a Milwaukee drill but it wasn't a 1/2" but it did work good..

[1930u]

To all,

Per my original post. I appreciate all the responses. Here's the deal I got a brand new set Craftsman cobalt drill bits for Christmas. Unfortunately I am already ready having the same problem as with the Dewalt, Hitachi and others.

Drilled out one 3/8" bolt and the bit only made it about half way before getting dull. I think I'm going to get a drill doctor and sharpen all my old 50-60 year old american bits. The craftsman cobalt are going back...

Again thanks for your input.

[oldred]

1930, How fast is your drill running? It sounds as if you may be running those bits too fast.

[hrjme]

American Vermont Bits were my favorite, at least when they were made in USA. I have used a wide assortment of bits from many sources over the years. When buying new, make sure you have High Speed Steel. I have not had any better service from the specialty bits. I do sharpen my own by hand, as was taught to me by my step father years ago. However, I did purchased a Drill Master Sharpening Machine. That is a great tool. However, it did take me some time to get use to it. I have the older style 3/4 capacity Drill Master, I have not been exposed to their new line of machines, but expect them to be just as good. They are made in Oregon. I have a shop with lathe, mill, drill press, and other machining tools, it really makes a difference with sharp bits. And the split point grinding feature really works well when drilling. Get yourself a 3/4 inch Drill Master, and a set of American Vermont drills in an index, and forget about those other drills. If you need to drill something hard, use a carbide bit. Do you know you can use masonry spade carbide bits to cut steel? I have fabricated parts out of spring leaves, using a masonry bit to drill the holes. The Drill Master can sharpen these bits, use it before you drill the holes in spring steel.

[Rob Keller]

I have not read the entire thread but here is my reply:

I get all of my bits from a local place called Southern Blade & Bolt
352-732-3904
They do not have a web site its more like a mom & pop place.

They have a "turbo "
I Do not know anything but the best I have ever used.

I re decked a 30+' goose neck {take boards off & flip ..Re attach} bought 200 of those torx bolts & 4 ~7/32" turbo bits after about the 1st 10 holes I got it snagged & then it cut faster!

Bored all of the holes needed & used that same bit for many years after .

They have a HUGH set I drool over every time I am in there.

Chances are you might be able to find where they get them & if you do please let me know{& I will do the same}





R

[onebadmerc]

Try the Norseman bits they are a very good bit here is a link: http://www.fairburyfastener.com/norseman.htm

[1930u]

Returned the Cobalt bits to Sears tonight. Got my $99.00 back and then walked across the tool department and bought a Drill Doctor model 500X. It was on sale for $119.00. Hopefully when I sharpen all my 100's of old dull bits my drill problems will be solved.

[79C10]

As far as drilling steel and keeping your bits sharp , I will offer some unsolicited advice ( gotta love his site! ) . a lot of pressure , a little bit of speed. keep a small cup of oil nearby for dipping the bit into. Lubes and cools at the same time. If any of your bits were blue on the edges , you were running them too fast.( burning them )
If you already know how to drill steel , I'm not trying to offend you ,just tellin' what I've been taught by folks wiser than I .