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best engine swap for 65' rambler american and 63' rambler american?

62K views 45 replies 24 participants last post by  farna 
#1 ·
whats the best engine to use in a 65 rambler amer. and a 63 rambler amer. ?
 
#5 ·
best engine swap for '65 rambler american and '63 rambler american

Nash produced some top flight inline sixes in the '50's. Some even came factory stock with dual carburetors. They were no slouch for power. Just never really caught on in the main stream. I know of one now in a Rambler two door that garners a lot of attention when he attends the Nostalgia Drags in the San Joaquin Valley. I'll bet there are some still out there with the recyclers.
Normbc9
 
#6 ·
Okay,spree001 here. I'm new here and yesterday I asked about engine swaps in 63 rambler americans and 65 americans. I guess my bigest problem is air conditioning. I want a strong enough engine to support that. I'm not really looking for a hotrod as much as i'm looking at AC. It gets hot here in Georgia. The 63 has a flat head I think. Bought from a relative unseen. THe 65 has the ovh valve 196. My other problem is suspension and sterring. Any way to upgrade on a reasonable budget? thanks
 
#9 ·
best engine swap fpr '65 rambler american and '65 rambler american

The Nash engines I' referring to are both OHV 6 engines but Rambler was owned and produced by American Motors who also owned and built the Nash motorcars. The engines will fit believe me. I've seen many conversions. Thi sin't a first time venture by any means.
Normbc9
 
#14 ·
OneMoreTime said:
I think that measuring the jeep engine bay and comparing the length to the Rambler bay would tell the tale on how close the 4.0 would come to fitting.

Sam
Jeep 4.0L is the same length as the 232 that was used in the '65 and could even use factory mounts. It would require a CJ5 or '65 Rambler 232 short water pump, as the 232 used that year in the American. Length isn't the problem on the '63, the front suspension is 'large' and the 2 inner fenders take up a lot of engine compartment space, which really can't be mod'd
 
#16 ·
There are few engines that will fit the 58-63 American and 50-55 Nash Rambler body without a lot of cutting (all of those models are practically the same under the hood). There are some problems with keeping the 196 if you intend to drive the car a lot. The first is parts availability on the road. Lose a water pump and you will have to wait three or more days to get a replacement. Most other most likely to break down parts can be handled easier, like the starter or generator (replace the gen with a late model Delco alt and circumvent that problem), but could still take a few days to get the part. They are costly to rebuild, oversize pistons come from Egge Machine and are $50-60 each. The other parts aren't too bad. Heads at 46+ years old are prone to cracking if run hot. They MUST be retorqued every 2-3 years or 12-15K miles, whichever comes first. If not the head bolts work loose, engine runs hot, and head usually cracks. That said, they are good reliable engines when maintained, and near bullet proof due to forged cranks and rods and heavy block casting.

What fits:
1) Ford small I-6 family. No point in using one of the little 144/170 mills (if you could find one). The 200 has about the same power as the 196. I'd stick a 250 in there! Note that the old 240 and 300 are bigger blocks and won't fit.
2) Late model Ford 2.3/2.5L Ranger fours, the ones where the intake curves over the valve cover. you must use the EFI, but it does just fit.
3) Old Quad 4 (and whatever Chevy called it later). The FWD intake will clear the left side, just! The problem here is that a special $400 bell or trans adapter is needed to convert to rear wheel drive.

You MUST change the transmission with the engine. The Rambler trans won't bolt up to anything but another 196 (or the smaller 173/184 Nash L-head sixes, but who wants to swap in a smaller engine?).

The 64-65 American is a different story. Matt already stated the only problem with it -- the engine bay is a few inches short to use AC. The radiator has to be moved forward and a short shaft CJ-5 (not CJ-7!) 232 water pump and pulley used on a 232 or 258. The 4.0L is short enough to just fit as is, but the fan is an issue. An electric fan would be a tight fit, and the water pump won't accept a fan. Use a Wrangler or Grand Cherokee water pump, and you might need to use a plastic flex fan and short spacer.

Any small block V-8 will fit, take your pick. Factory parts are available for an AMC V-8 (67+), but change the trans with the engine and it's not much harder to put any other small block in.

The AMC six cylinder rear axle WILL take a mild small block with street tires. Loosen the axles nuts and torque them back down to 250-300 ft/lbs (more IS NOT better!!). That needs to be done every 8-12 years. It's the same strength as a GM 7.5"/Ford 8" (ring gear in the AMC is 7-9/16"). Not for constant drag racing, but will hold up for a cruiser that occasionally burns the tires or makes a pass down the strip. The u-joints will be the weak link. You'll have to have a driveshaft made to match the trans.
 
#18 ·
I knew a girl who had a jeep TBI I6 with OD Auto in a gremmie. Looked factory.

Quad4s LOOK kick *** when you strip all the junk off them; sort of offy-esque. But, aside from the adapter, some parts aren't exactly common for those anymore.

V6 with a 200-4r would be pretty kick *** in that lil car; T-type anyone?
 
#20 ·
I had a 64 American with a 396/425hp Big Block Chevy and Muncie 4 speed, Mustang 9 inch rear. Only real issue was steering shaft too close to the number three exhaust. Rear end bolted right in.
Also had a 64 American wagon with a 350 Chevy and 350 turbo trans, Ford rear.
Motor mounts were not too much trouble, rear crossmember easy, rear bolted right in. Had under dash AC, Chevy compressor, custom hoses. Radiator in both were Ford because that is what I had. Bottom hose has to cross over as Ford and Chevy lower hoses connect on opposite sides.
Drove the wagon 6-7 years, untold miles no problem. Pretty quick in the light car, set up with Q Jet got 21 and change driving from NC to LA and back.
No big changes under the hood except to make the motor mounts but they were easy, SBC cast iron exhaust went right in. Real fun car. My wife loved it.
 
#22 ·
The early 2300 had a carb intake that fit up close to the engine and might fit, the late model Ranger 2300/2500 with intake curving over the valve cover just
will, but the 2.3L turbo won't due to where the turbo is mounted. The 60° V-6s fit, but you have to use some rather expensive "hot rod" accessory brackets to pull them in, or make your own. The factory brackets put everything out beside the motor where there's no room under the hood in the little Rambler. That's in the 58-63 Americans (same under the hood except for the firewall/heater). Almost anything will fit in the 64-69 models -- even big blocks (though they are tight).
 
#23 · (Edited)
64 or 65 Rambler American engine swap

I have done this twice, once in the 70's and also this past year. The first time several of us put "Big Block" Fords which was tight. 352, 390, and 427 was great for a "sleeper" but this year I have put a 400 Chevy small block which was easier. The only challenge was the headers, as I had to cut one inch off each tube where they bolt to the block and then re-weld them back on. This made it difficult for removing the spark plugs, so now I just unbolt the headers, move them up a few inches, change plugs, and then rebolt the headrs back on. I will post a couple pictures of the early big block Ford and the newest small block chevy version. Mooseman1377
 

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#24 ·
spree001 said:
Will the 4.0l fit in the 65' ?
I'm not sure why, but when I read this kind of question, the hair on the back of my neck stands up. It really pizzes me off when someone asks if so-and-so will fit. Holy Jesus dude, this is hotrodders.com, not restoration.com. With a Sawzall, a cutting torch, a hand grinder and a MIG, anything will fit anything. If it won't fit, start cuttin' everything out of the way that's in the way, then build it back after the motor is fitted.

If you are unwilling or unable to do heavy mods, then you should take up another hobby and leave the hot rodding to someone who has the wherewithall to make it all work.
 
#25 ·
techinspector1 said:
I'm not sure why, but when I read this kind of question, the hair on the back of my neck stands up. It really pizzes me off when someone asks if so-and-so will fit. Holy Jesus dude, this is hotrodders.com, not restoration.com. With a Sawzall, a cutting torch, a hand grinder and a MIG, anything will fit anything. If it won't fit, start cuttin' everything out of the way that's in the way, then build it back after the motor is fitted.

If you are unwilling or unable to do heavy mods, then you should take up another hobby and leave the hot rodding to someone who has the wherewithall to make it all work.
While you may be right your delivery sucks! Lighten up :D
 
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