[elano]

I've had bad luck getting my intake to seal up dry and now want to use a sealer around the runners. I know it needs to be gasoline resistant but which would be the optimal choice for an aluminum intake, cast iron heads, and fel-pro 1206 composite gaskets.

So far, after researching, it seems many people use:

Permatex no.2 (non-hardening)
Permatex no.3 Aviation Sealer (non-hardening)
Permatex hi-tach (brush on)
Hi-Tach (spray on)
Copper coat adhesive (spray on)
Hylomar Blue
Indian Head Gasket Sealer (brush on)
Permatex 97 Super hi-tach

All are gasoline resistant, just not sure which one would work best for this application. Thanks.

[LATECH]

what engine are you working on? Ever heard of Victor-Reinz?

[bigdog7373]

If the gasket won't seal by itself you may have another problem with the intake of heads. Put a straight edge against each and see if one is warped.

[BigRoy1978]

I use hi-tack, a nice thick coat, on everything except for the...
intake end seals, which i use copper silicone
head gaskets, which i use copper spray-a-gasket
header gaskets, again copper silicone

let the hi-tack set up for about 10 minutes until you put it together, install everything else with the silicone/spray-a-gasket wet.

[68NovaSS]

Hylomar is good stuff and 'everything' resistant, I use it all over my boat motor. Make sure you give it some time to flash off the alcohol after spreading it, also, it's non hardening. Just my choice, but not something you'd use as a "filler" so to speak.

[elano]

This is a 350 SBC. It's pretty straight, just doesn't get quite as tight at the bottom of the gasket as the top and sucks in some oil. Doesn't look like it's off much, maybe just a few thousandths.

[DoubleVision]

If it`s off by so little you should be able to use the thicker intake gaskets and eliminate the problem without the worry of sealer. Myself I`ve always used the RVT blue glue on intake gaskets and most of the time had good results. I never liked the non hardening stuff, it tends to move around too much.

[elano]

by thicker, you mean same port size, just thicker? If I switched from a felpro 1206 (.06) to a 1266 (.120), would that have more compressability? I was told that just changes the intake height.

[AndersonRacing44]

Gaskisinch!

[elano]

Originally Posted by AndersonRacing44

Gaskisinch!

Around all the runners on both sides?

[ap72]

black RTV, the permatex stuff works fine, the stuff from a MOPAR dealer is supposedly the best.

[elano]

I read that you weren't supposed to put silicone RTV around the runners because it turns to jelly when in contact with gasoline. Otherwise, I think it would be the perfect.

[edge]

Originally Posted by elano

Around all the runners on both sides?

Yes. I use it around the intake ports. Put it on the cylinder head, place the gasket, then on the gasket before installing the intake.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...Supplement.pdf

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9300/



Good luck, Ed
www.edgesz28.com

[sbchevfreak]

Don't use any kind of silicone gasket maker. It will dissolve on contact with gasoline. Best advice is to use thicker gaskets, and pay special attention to how you torque down the intake. You MUST do it even, or you "c*ck" the intake off, and it will leak at the bottom of the ports, usually more so on one side. Use a torque wrench, and IIRC the bolts get about 20-25 ft/lbs. Circle pattern from center out, using at least two torque stages.

If you absolutely have to use a sealant, Gaskacinch works, as well as High Tack. After literally hundreds of intake jobs, I have found the best to be anally clean surfaces, tack the intake gaskets down in between the ports, not at all around them with weatherstripping adhesive, a thin film of Permatex Right stuff around the water ports, and a 5/16" - 3/8" bead of Right stuff on the China walls. This followed by a correct torque proceedure and value, 99 times out of 100 will be 100% leak free.

[Irelands child]

To get off the subject a little bit - I just used the Edelbrock Gaskacinch for the first time a couple weeks ago when I had to disassemble the front end of my engine. I had always used plain ol' flammable contact cement - the good stuff. From what I could see, that's all the Gaskacinch is - odor, color and the way it works plus how hard it is to remove from my fingers.

Now as far as sealing that engine. I really would take a better look at alignment. Has the engine been decked? Have the heads had some clean up machining? If so, you may have to do some corrective machining on the manifold or, better yet use offset head alignment dowels (you DID install the dowels ??).

Sealant - use the Fel-Pro Printoseal gaskets - they may cost a couple bucks more, but I have never had a seeper/leaker.

Dave W