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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2012, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
Deuce hit it on the money use only an epoxy primer over the bare
metal.
Unless your using lacquer or enamel as your color coat
you should not use an acid etch primer.

When you get it stripped to bare metal email me off line and I will
send you "The Perfect Paint job" It gives step by step from bare metal up. It was written for Restorations and Street rod builders only not everyday paint It does apply to any paint brand.
Could I please get a copy of "The Perfect Paint job" I am going to try my luck on a 1957 cheverolet. Need all the help I can get
Thanks
gnmnj

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2012, 06:35 AM
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this is an 8 yr old thread...but still has a lot of good info.it would be interesting to see how the acid primer guys feel now days though...
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
Deuce hit it on the money use only an epoxy primer over the bare
metal.
Unless your using lacquer or enamel as your color coat
you should not use an acid etch primer.

When you get it stripped to bare metal email me off line and I will
send you "The Perfect Paint job" It gives step by step from bare metal up. It was written for Restorations and Street rod builders only not everyday paint It does apply to any paint brand.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Could I please get a copy of "The Perfect Paint job" I am going to try my luck on a 1955 Ford F100 I need all the help I can get too!

Thanks ron _of_orange

P.S. I'm hoping this reply works for a Very old thread
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:35 PM
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I would appreciate a copy also. tworods@shaw.ca
Thanks
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 05:03 PM
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The perfect paint job is freely available on SPI's website...

Perfect Paint Job
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 07:19 PM
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I would really like a copy also.
tractorman@billstractor.com
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:37 PM
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paint stages

Send me a copy also kitch771@gmail.com
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 09:23 PM
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Perfect Paint Job

Here you go...I have parts done several years ago in black epoxy which show no rust..not true for other primers..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 09:32 PM
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If you want the paint job to hold, spray all bare metal with an etching primer.
do not cover old paint or fillers with etching primers. epoyy primer over all.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:59 PM
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primer controversy

hi guys...ole rich here..yes as some of you might know...ive been painting since the early 60's..Ive seen the good, the bad and the just plain ugly...but now I spend my time getting cars ready for pebble beach and Duntov awards thru a premier shop in colorado..we use PPG products and have done so for many years....the only other product I would consider would be Sikkens for a premier restoration...we are restoring the purist type vehicles...we have a 59 vette here restored to original specs...(bolt by bolt), a gorgeous 34 Packard eight convertible capable of best of show at pebble beach and so on...we are coached to use an etch primer when using a three part catalyzed primer with a urethane sealer and either single stage urethane color or base/clear for top coating....we are also coached to use DP40 epoxy primer if a lacquer top coat is used...we will see very little lacquer products in the near future because it is becoming extnict and is being outlawed in many states...many painters and paint reps will argue about this subject but I am a firm believer in an etch primer first on bare metal only when using the primer surfacer to block sand...this is my story and im stickin to it (LOL)
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2012, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richowens View Post
hi guys...ole rich here..yes as some of you might know...ive been painting since the early 60's..Ive seen the good, the bad and the just plain ugly...but now I spend my time getting cars ready for pebble beach and Duntov awards thru a premier shop in colorado..we use PPG products and have done so for many years....the only other product I would consider would be Sikkens for a premier restoration...we are restoring the purist type vehicles...we have a 59 vette here restored to original specs...(bolt by bolt), a gorgeous 34 Packard eight convertible capable of best of show at pebble beach and so on...we are coached to use an etch primer when using a three part catalyzed primer with a urethane sealer and either single stage urethane color or base/clear for top coating....we are also coached to use DP40 epoxy primer if a lacquer top coat is used...we will see very little lacquer products in the near future because it is becoming extnict and is being outlawed in many states...many painters and paint reps will argue about this subject but I am a firm believer in an etch primer first on bare metal only when using the primer surfacer to block sand...this is my story and im stickin to it (LOL)
How bout some pics?

Vince
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:43 PM
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I have never read so much mis-information.

Laquer and enamel? What is this, the 1950's?

Go to the auto paint store (or web site) and read the PPG literature which is available for all of their products. Read about PPG DP primers. Fill and surface after priming.

The best custom painter in ths U.S. is Charlie Hutton. He uses PPG products including PPG waterborne paints. Fantastic stuff.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:46 PM
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restoration pics

well guys...I would love to share the pics of the stuff we are doing, however,...they are our customers and we have not the rights to post their cars for public display...they are the only ones who can do it...I really do hope the packard appears in pics somewhere..It is worthy of all genres of automotive excellence and they are so proud....I will not comment further on primers and undercoats but someone made a great suggestion...go directly to the automotive paint supply store and they can give you a complete breakdown of what will be best for you and your particular project should you decide to do it yourself...Paint and body has gotten astronomically expensive and I admire anyones bravery to work your own stuff...there are many good coaches but i still think your supply store is a good place to start...good luck to the guys wanting to improve their rides...Ole Rich
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2012, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richowens View Post
hi guys...ole rich here..yes as some of you might know...ive been painting since the early 60's..Ive seen the good, the bad and the just plain ugly...but now I spend my time getting cars ready for pebble beach and Duntov awards thru a premier shop in colorado..we use PPG products and have done so for many years....the only other product I would consider would be Sikkens for a premier restoration...we are restoring the purist type vehicles...we have a 59 vette here restored to original specs...(bolt by bolt), a gorgeous 34 Packard eight convertible capable of best of show at pebble beach and so on...we are coached to use an etch primer when using a three part catalyzed primer with a urethane sealer and either single stage urethane color or base/clear for top coating....we are also coached to use DP40 epoxy primer if a lacquer top coat is used...we will see very little lacquer products in the near future because it is becoming extnict and is being outlawed in many states...many painters and paint reps will argue about this subject but I am a firm believer in an etch primer first on bare metal only when using the primer surfacer to block sand...this is my story and im stickin to it (LOL)
I've used dp epoxy and I thought it was pretty good stuff 25 years ago..etch primer too,also a firm believer 25 yrs ago but back then I had 10 yrs experiance and knew it all .....Today I know better,, Epoxy primer is the only choice.and there hasnt been a can of etch primer in my shop (even the good stuff Dupont made) in 15yrs and like I said I was a firm believer..it went on every bit of bare metal I did..
and PPG never did make a REALLY good clear as far as I'm concernd ,I used only ppg products for quite a few years but they're all a bunch of asshats these days...
SPI epoxy is far superior to the old DP40 epoxyI was so dedicated too and the newer epoxy PPG make isnt even come close...spi universal clear is better in every way than anything PPG has and its comparable to Glassurat ...If your using PPG products ,your doing way to much work to get it looking good enough to be a show winner...Do yourself a big favor try SPI and see for yourself but if your using PPG and have thier sign up you probably had to sign a contract saying you will use only PPG products so dont get caught ...PPG today is like a spoiled man child that inherited the business when dad died and dosent have a clue what to do and are running the company into the ground the only thing they have going for them is their fathers well earned reputation from hard work ....The best thing I ever did was drop PPG ...Theres a whole world of better products out there that arnt so over priced ....
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2012, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picklefart View Post
I have never read so much mis-information.

Laquer and enamel? What is this, the 1950's?

Go to the auto paint store (or web site) and read the PPG literature which is available for all of their products. Read about PPG DP primers. Fill and surface after priming.

The best custom painter in ths U.S. is Charlie Hutton. He uses PPG products including PPG waterborne paints. Fantastic stuff.
He may just be ONE of the best but hes NOT THE best ,theres always someone better..Just undiscovered, Theres plenty of people just as good that dont use PPG...Anytime you see PPG mentioned in a magizine its called advertising and the magizine is PAID to put it there...It means very little in the REAL world....
Going to a paint store and asking them what is the best materials to use on a certain car thats being used a certain way is also a waste of time they know nothing but what the reps tell them and they are salesmen that will sell you whatever they can to get the most money out of you...Compare it to going to a used car lot and asking the saleman what kind of car should I drive...
You want to know what you want BEFORE you go...

Something I heard once and use all the time: If you only believe 50% of what your hear and 50% of what you read You'll be 100% clueless...

The reason lacquer paints will never die completely out is when done right there is simply no better LOOK than a perfectly straight ,rubbed out lacquer job.Unfortunely the only thing its good for are trailer queens that rarely get driven, it just dont hold up on anything else AND only a rare few are willing to do the work involved or spend the time it takes to painta minimum of 14 coats and all the sanding between coats it takes to get that look ,even if they could and did have the talent...Its been 25 yrs since my last lacquer job ...For the LOOK theres nothing better.
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