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best primer and sealers to use

80K views 42 replies 24 participants last post by  richowens 
#1 ·
I know this has probably been beat to death, but i am new at this and want to get right the first time.
My 1948 olds is being stripped to bare metal, all body work done, welding nd fillers , now come time to prime
What is the best way to go and the products to use in what order.
can i use an etching primer over body fillers and old paint and primers
The car will not be painted final color for probably a year or so.
thank-you so much for all the help guys
My daughter and i really appreciate all the help and great advice
 
#32 ·
Speaking of the old lacquer (hand rubbed) paint jobs, which is what I started spraying way back. I have to disagree with the concept of their look can't be beat. First off the gloss of the urethanes can't compare to that of the lacquers, it is just much more shinier right off the bat. You have to rub and buff to get that gloss out of the lacquers, so if you can get that thane peel out totally and level it FLAT once you buff it has a gloss and depth to it NATURALLY that lacquer just never had. If you have ever seen this up close and personal, not talking about pics on the net either, you will know exactly what I mean. Anyone else agree, or disagree?
 
#33 ·
I think it's a lot like real and fake boobs, real is just better no matter if they aren't "perfect".

There is just something sexy about that lacquer. I did a lot of show quality (I mean REAL shows) lacquer jobs, 5 coats, cut flat, I am talking EVERY SINGLE SQUARE INCH of texture off, we are talking jambs too. Flawlessly sanding around every louver. Then 5 more coats and the same thing, then five more coats and the same thing then buff. Personally, I have never put them side by side to compare, I have only done one of those jobs since the bc/cc urethane came along and I honestly don't remember putting them side by side. But as I can't imagine the look being more exact, more beautiful than that lacquer done that way.

The last one I did was a repair of a car I had done years before, a 31 Model A that hit a telephone pole support cable. :pain: Anyway, I had to replace a few panels and I dug out the old lacquer (had a quart of the original paint) and shot the parts after not shooting lacquer for probably 5 years or so.
It was like going out with an old girl friend that you really liked. :D I still dig the stuff, and I don't believe you can really get that look with urethane. But again, I have never put them side by side. I do know that right as I finished we put it in the Grand National Roadster show and it won first place in it's class. :D The owner (a good friend) passed away from cancer within months. :(

Brian

 
#34 ·
I just can't resist adding my 2 cents here. When I started doing paint and body I would not have thought about anything but lacquer. Just to put things in perspective, by then there was not much available accept acrylic lacquer. Nitrocellulose lacquer was already pretty much extinct by then.

A well done lacquer paint job is as pretty as anything you will ever do. With that said, I wouldn't paint my driver with lacquer if you gave me the paint. I do agree that the lacquer does not have the inherent grain that urethanes have but the lack of durability is just is not worth it. I painted the Ford in the picture below with lacquer and 4 years later it needed to be painted again. Much to the dismay of my friends I repainted it with catalyzed enamel. I then color sanded and buffed it. The car is still around as you see from the picture taken at the Local cruise a few weeks ago and looking pretty good..........It was painted in 1975!!!

The technology available to us today is so superior to what we had 50 years ago it is hard to believe.

John L

 
#41 ·
rubbed lacquer

hi guys...ole rich here again....Im not sure that it would really make a difference what type of paint you would use as long as you get plenty of it on the car,,,I put at least three coats of single stage color (most of these beauties are solid color) and then at least three coats of clear over that...with flash time..it will take me anywhere from six to eight hours to shoot a complete...we are very accute with temp and reducers as the day goes on cuz we cant cool the booth...but we give them about a week after the initial bake(@ 180 degrees for an hour )...then I start with 600 grit on a block and cut the whole car till it says " ouch" lo ..lthen I graduate down using a flat block each step with 1000...then 1500...then 2000...then 3000 on the da...by this time...the paint is pretty shiny and then I begin to polish...we achieve a glassy finish this way but sloooooow!!!!!but then again....we get usually 250000.00 and up for a complete restoration and it will average about two years to complete...anyway...i have seen both urethane and lacquer side by side and I think that the look is so close that only the very discerning eye could really tell the difference...for me...a good ole durable urethane finish is where I would put my money and effort...Im counting on a supreme glassy finish on my tigerrrrrrr..lol...by the way...it will be for sale in about a year...good price at only 85000.00!!!! sounds steep but wow!!! what a car...Ole rich
 
#43 ·
red Harley

nice Bike Larry..your paint has obviously been pampered...here in Colorado...we are a mile high and paintwork wont hold up to the elements...the ultra-violets are very strong here..but ..you should be proud!!!!!...thanks for the pic and good nite to all...Ole Rich
 
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