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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2011, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC Phil
If you are cutting metal, thick metal, Milwaukee makes a blade called "the torch". This blade will cut and cut. I use it to cut thru old cast iron boiler pipes. Cuts like butter. They aren't cheap, but save a bunch of time. They last pretty good too.
I used those ...they're pretty good also..

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Old 05-19-2011, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I used those ...they're pretty good also..
Torch is a nice thick blade, easy to make straight cuts with. IMHO they dont't last as long as the Lenox Gold. They are a great second choice for me.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2011, 05:58 PM
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I find all are junk and don't last and they want so much money for them. to bad u dont get what u pay for when it comes to blades.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2011, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jss
I find all are junk and don't last and they want so much money for them. to bad u dont get what u pay for when it comes to blades.
Probably putting too much preassure on the saw and forcing the cut. That will dull any kind of blade...
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:24 PM
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Haven't tried Lenox, but happy with Milwaukee. When cutting thinner material, I slowly swing the blade through the work like I'm using a hacksaw. Uses the whole blade instead of wearing out a section in the middle. Go slowly and allow only the weight of the Sawzall to be against the work.
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:06 PM
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When cutting sheetmetal, I'v found to slow the blade down. doesn't cut slower on thin stuff, but it keeps the heat down..

I found some Kobalt brand I bought for a hand saw a few years ago ( takes a sawsall blade ) and used them to cut the box up off the parts truck. 6" 14 TPI. Cut at speed 4 out of 6, and I used 2 blades to cut the entire floor out of the box ( need a patch for another truck ) and then cut the box in 1/2.. Went out to get another rear end today ( Explorer 3.73 disc brake ) and stopped at lowes for another pkg of them
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:32 AM
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I bought some from HF. Used the first one for about 5 minutes. Threw the rest away. Going back to Milwaukee.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2011, 09:35 PM
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OK, after comparing the performance of the lower end Lenox that I got ( Not gold ) to these Kobalts, there is no need for the lower end Lenox. Performance is the same on blades that are $5 cheaper. Cut most of the crossmembers out of the rear of the Ranger frame like butter with the Kobalts lubricated with Accell lubricating oil ( non detergent 30W ). Then took 1 and cut the frame in half, because i needed to put it on a small 8x10 trailer and don't need all of the original frame because I'm going to back half it
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:05 AM
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Bosch hands down

I love Bosch blades I find them at Menards holds a edge and cuts straight.

Best part is I have never bent one like the cheep ones.
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:55 PM
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I have only bent the Lenox gold, because I have them in 9". Cutting thru the cab blind, hit inner supports a lot, and the blades do bend. But they hold the best edge and just keep going. Most of mine were damaged beyond usability only because they were bent beyond usability... The Kobalts seem to be last better than I thought. I ran out of new blades. Went thru the kobalts destined for the trash, straightened some that still had an edge, and with a decent amount of oil, finished my cutting
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2017, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167 View Post
When cutting sheetmetal, I'v found to slow the blade down. doesn't cut slower on thin stuff, but it keeps the heat down..

I found some Kobalt brand I bought for a hand saw a few years ago ( takes a sawsall blade ) and used them to cut the box up off the parts truck. 6" 14 TPI. Cut at speed 4 out of 6, and I used 2 blades to cut the entire floor out of the box ( need a patch for another truck ) and then cut the box in 1/2.. Went out to get another rear end today ( Explorer 3.73 disc brake ) and stopped at lowes for another pkg of them
The thinner the metal the more TPI (teeth per inch) you need. Most don't know this and think they have a crap blade because it wears out fast but using a blade made for thin metal with a lot of TPI on thick steel will do the same thing. The oil is a must have if you want to prolong the life of any blade or cutting tool. Thanks for bringing it up. Some guys always blame the blade (or tool) when its actually improper use that wears them out. Its a good thing a sawzall blade can only go in one way, some dumas will be saying its a cheap blade and the problem is, its in backwards.
Rule#1) Drill bits and saw blades shouldn't make sparks when in use.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-04-2017 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:50 AM
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6 year old thread. Brought forward via a spammer that was cleaned & banned.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2017, 06:02 AM
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So what, as a matter of fact I posted in it back then and had something else to add to it. Its still a good thread, now its better. Actually the older threads are better and worth adding on to. someone else might have something useful to add that nobody thought of. I might even spend this weekend raising the dead threads just for something to do and spark some life into this slowly dying site.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2017, 06:18 AM
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It may have been a spammer - but again, a lot of newbies don't know any better. As far as a DeWalt blade that the 'spammer' recommended - they are one of my last choices and bought at Home Depot/Lowe's and used only when needed and my last Lenox has no teeth left.

DBM - please resurrect some of the old threads. Maybe I would spend some more time here. I'm really tired of the 'what's the best gizmo for my Blivet 8 to make it run fast" and the major reason I check in only occasionally.

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Old 01-04-2017, 02:51 PM
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Lenox has my vote.
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