Best Rust Inhibitor?

I have been looking at a variety of rust inhibitors and all make claims of magically turning surface rust into magnetite or some other non-corrosive inert material, arresting rust in its tracks, and enabling you to paint over the top of it.

I am in need something that I can spray inside the doors of my '41 (surface rust), underneath the headliner, and various other places.

In your view, which of the available products works the best for the money and do they really work?

Thanks in Advance,

Ty


Register now (free) or login to remove ads

I've never used either of these products, but see for yourself:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?...372&iSubCat=372

Here is a comparo between POR15 and the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?...688&iSubCat=852

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
"Magically" You just answered your own question!

Have you read the FINE PRINT?
* Only sticks to scale, not metal, and the best part!
* To work must be 3.5 mils OR more for most of them.

Its funny as about 4 years ago the same question was asked on a 55-57 T-bird forum -now these people that own these cars are usually old folks and have owned there car for years. I had about 5 people write in that had used the stuff in the last year and said how great it was while they blasted me. Then the horror stories started! Most of the peel ups were 2-7 years and statement like the "surface rust" turned to rot underneath. With the birds trunks and floors are a problem as the cars were never waterproof when built. Sum it up will work good short term and create major problem long term.

Buy the cheapest, as there is not an ounce of difference between any of them.

Last I knew there were two company's in the world making these
type products one in england and one in southeast (NC) the rest is just a label stuck on and maybe a dye to change color.

I buy "Tremclad" rust paint........$9/qt...good as anything out there.

__________________
In the words of Walter Cronkite..."And that's the way it is."

Ontario Rodders

I like Rust-Mort. I've never seen it fail and like spraying it through a common spray bottle . Since it's thin like water, blowing it with compressed air will get it into hard to reach areas.

SEM Rust Mort

You need to get the loose stuff off.

I always use
POR-15
But I use Metal Ready first.
It's got phosphoric acid in it and converts the oxide to a phosphate.
There's another thread on it Here

i know on airplanes we use a water displacer called "boe-shield" or "bo-shield". supposedly it works great for making sure water doesn't stay in those hidden areas and rust stuff up... i don't have much experience with it personally though. i sprayed it inside a 737 a couple of times and thats about it. I read an entire article on it once but the article was in a boeing products book (boeing makes boe-sheild) so what they wrote was fairly biased. but everything used on airplanes is supposedly tested to higher standards than most automotive stuff... i bet this stuff would work great inside frames and on the backsides of panels where its not seen (it has an ugly "nicatine yellow" look to it when it is cured.

interesting stuff... boeshield. Thanks for the heads up.
Found a link--> http://www.boeshield.com/

This does look very interesting!
A converter that stays on is a problem but one that wipes off?
Now were talking!

use por15 it works right over rust, just make sure its not oily surface

Rust Cure works well for us. we use it on Jet Engine Test Cell sound suppressor. This area has a lot of rust on steel items Rust Cure works well out side too. I have tried it at home on tile and glass in the shower. It removes all that junk from the tile and glass. Just to be safe used A&H baking soda wash down.Supplier CarQuest Auto Parts. wts

I use phosphoric acid to clean the surface, then cover with POR-15. Don't get any POR 15 on your skin. It won't come off.

Corrosion - is an eletrolytic process, where essentially 2 different electrically conductive materials exchange electrons through a conductive medium.

Pure water is not electrically conductive, but IONISED water is., - that means the water has electrically charged or chargeable atoms or moluecules in solution - with most mineral salts being excellent in terms of both conductivity (ionising the water) and solubility.

Then what happens is typically the iron reacts with the carbon to form an electrolytic cell (think carbon zinc voltaic piles) and without going into complex reactions (and it's years since I studied surface technology), essentially the water dissociates into hydrogen and oxygen and the oxygen combines with the iron and froms one of several stages of iron oxide FE02 or FEO3 etc., (think red scale, powdery rust and black iron mill scale on bars and plate)

The fundamental mechansisim of rust prevention are to seperate the STEEL (carbon and iron) from air and water.... to prevent the cell from ever being created in the first place.

Rather than crap on for hours., which the simple minded just love and the dedicated just hate., go to your local university and study up on the mechanisims of corrosion and the prevention and or alteration (stopping) of the process - from QUALITY engineering manuals.

Also cross reference from a number of sources - because 10 different books and videos will ascribe the same situation in slightly different ways, and you will gain more clarity and understanding of the mechanisims involved and the remedies to apply.

For instance, converting the iron oxides into a phosphate or a chromate, is just dandy, but it's not an ende solution within it's self.


It needs to be undertaken in combination with a series of other process's and actions.


Education and application is the best form of prevention and correction.

The artical was supplied and is copyrighted by:

Shane Hanson

3 / 20 Halliday St Charlton Victoria Australia 3525.

No part may be used etc., without prior written permission of the author.

Buttwelder gave the perfect description of the coorosion process. Think of corrosion as a 12V battery. There's a positive and negative side ( as there are positive and negative charged particles in a corrosion cell) and there is the electrolyte that allows the electrical charge to flow. If you remove any one of these the battery doesn't work. Same thing with coorosion (rust), take away one of the three components and there is no rust. Since you can't really get rid of either the positive or negative particles, you have to eliminate the moisture that allows the charge to flow.

The rust converters typically tend to solidify the top layer of rust and make it somewhat impervious to water, which stops the coorosion. (No electrolyte in the battery!) The problem is that this layer of converted rust tends to be very brittle. With expansion and contraction and movement of the surface the converted layer will crack and allow moisture to penetrate the surface. This starts the coorosion all over again.

I'm not saying that these products don't work, they just don't tend to last for long periods of time if the surface is stressed at all.

I tend to lean twords removing as much of the rust as I can and coating it with a good grade epoxy that has some flexability. This will stop the moisture and therefore stop the rust or coorosion from continuing.

Sorry for being so long winded!!