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The Best SBC for an old Ford

1K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  39 master 
#1 ·
In another post, I received a lot of helpful advice on an engine for a Model-A hot rod. It seems that the Ford small blocks's don't fit well (too long for the engine compartment). The consensus is: Chevrolet SBC.
So the new question is: "Which One ?"
This will be a "driving" car (showing isn't my thing). I wouldn't expect to do any cross-country trips but I would like to use it regularly around my town. My priority list is: (1) dependable, (2) findable, (3) parts and accessories can be obtained, (4) decent mileage, (5) not rare or pricey. Note that "able to blow-off Cobras" is not on the list.
Thanks,
Buzz (MoonBat)
 
#5 ·
Actually the SBF 221-302 with the short water pump is the same length as the SBC. The short water pump originally was used on industrial applications but is readily available on the hot rod aftermarket. The advantage to this SBF is the distributor is up front and easily accessible and the engine a couple inches narrower than the 351 SBF or the SBC which gives a little more space for headers.


The SBC by far the best selection is the one piece rear seal blocks with roller cam provisions if not installation. The one piece seal engines just don't mark their spot with oil, the two piece seal engines are hard to dry up in this regard. A lot depends on how you want to go and how much you want to spend. The shortest distance to running is an L31 crate engine for a carb. These come with the one piece rear seal and roller cam that is roughly the equivalent of the old 300 horse 350 flat tappet cam. With a carb or self learning aftermarket TBI and conventional distributor it's ready to go except for the serpentine drive. The factory serpentine is not pretty but widely available in wrecking years, the MARCH system is pretty but not cheap. The conversion to V-belts is simple requiring a conventional rotation pump and pulleys.


Also, in the one piece rear seal is the 86 through 94 engines. But here you need to be careful as some have roller cams but trucks don't. Truck blocks may be provisioned for a roller with degrees of completions ranging from the provision is cast but not drilled or tapped; to drilled but not tappet; to completed. Some blocks however have no roller cam provision but do have the one piece rear seal. For the most part blocks after 1986 are not completed for a mechanical fuel pump but this is variable. You almost want to decide on whether a carburetor or fuel injection before looking for an engine or block as a carb can go mechanical or electric but injection must go electric because of the pressures for even TBI are much higher than those for a carb so there aren't mechanical pumps made to EFI.
305 or 350 L30 or L31 Vortec. The very down side of the 86-94 engines is the heads most of these have the dreaded Swirl Port head these engines will be identified as LO3 for 305s and LO5 for 350's. The factory cam in these engines are extremely mild flat tappets very short durations mostly under 180 degrees, with low lift. Their only redeeming value is they tolerate no zinc oil.


For a scratch build I'd pick a one piece seal, roller block or short block if you can find one with a stock bottom end for what you want that being a cast crank, either factory power rods or a SCAT 4130 lower end of their choices, a moderate OEM style roller cam. I'd top it off with bare aluminum heads let your wallet point you there are excellent imports at moderate prices to exotic domestics with matching prices. I stuff the heads with parts that match the cam of choice. All the big name shops supply decently priced and performing valves and valve train parts on the low end to costly race stuff on the top. Aluminum heads take 50-60 pounds off the engine weight which is helpful on short wheel base, lightweight car.


One thing I like is to use a two piece cast aluminum front timing cover that employees a bolt on base that has the pan gasket support and a separate cover. This allows you the privilege of opening up the timing case for maintenance, tuning, or cam replacement without disturbing the pan to timing cover seal. Pays for itself the first time you have to go in there. The tin covers of this type always leak, don't bother with them.


Bogie
 
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