Best water trap for a compressor - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Garage - Tools
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 08:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Idaho
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Best water trap for a compressor

Well I am going to pickup my compressor today, I settled on a Puma 5hp (running), 3 cylinder, 2 stage 80 gallon tank. The specs are 175PSI max with a 19.1 CFM rating @100PSI. All cast iron (no aluminum and sleeves), it also has a Mag starter...and man does it weigh a ton...OK so not a ton but 550LBS.

Anyway I plan on piping around my garage using a variant of the diagram that is linked to several posts, with drop legs, etc. The question I have is what are your opinions about who makes the best water trap? Where I bought the compressor they have the Puma brand regular filter/trap and the filter/lubricator/trap. I am so new to all this I am not sure and always like to do my research before I buy. Thanks for any feedback!

Jim

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 08:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South West MI
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
At our shop we have a compressor simular for yours and we use a ingersole rand automatic bleeder. It seems to work realy nice because you can set the time interviles and then just no more worries.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 10:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Downey, CA
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Water trap

My water trap system that doesn't use a std. water trap. My comperssor is in the back of the gargage, sitting out side in an enclosed but vented cabinent. I plumbed it into the garage about 3 ft above the foundation. It run up to the top header of the wall, then forward to the garage door where it drops back down for usable height air fittings. It then runs up over the large door in a upside-down V shape to get to the otherside of the garage door, where there's more fittings. At each of the low places, I installed a petcock (probably 3, in all). Water collects at each of these low spots & I open the petcock to remove the water.

When I'm painting, I open all 3 slightly so they're just "hissing" a bit. This purges the water & I've never had to install a conventional water trap system, although I propbably should. Keep in mind, I only paint using the air fitting at the end of the system, after all three water traps.

Part of the system works on gravity, but I think the other is the cooling of the air before it get put to use. When the air comes out of the compressor its HOT! As it cools, water vapor separates from the air & it collects in the low spots. I built this out of galvanized years ago. However, each cut has to be threaded which is a real pain. Next on will be out of PVC.

Alan
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 12:26 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,909
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Scs, I was really admiring your set-up and the little trick you use to bleed the water during painting. I usually don't recommend that for most people because most are pressed to supply enough air to begin with but if you have the extra air to spare (and it only takes a little) it works just fine. BUT then you said you were going to use PVC Why? PVC is a looser from the start, it will contribute greatly to moisture problems due to a lack of cooling. Your system that works so well now probably wouldn't if it were plumbed with PVC because the air would remain hot and carry the water vapor all the way to your hose where it would condense and exit as liquid water. Then there is the very real danger of plastic shards flying like pieces of shrapnel if a line bursts which it could easily do because of inadvertent damage or just simply line failure, it does happen. PVC is illegal anywhere a system has to be inspected and is not allowed by OSHA or MSHA for transporting compressed air unless buried or run inside steel conduit, they do this for a damn good reason. I have installed and serviced air systems for years and I have seen many problems relating to the use of PVC and I have replaced several systems that had been plumbed with it. Do yourself a huge favor and stay with the galvanized.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 12:35 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
The paint booth I have the pleasure of using has a Speedair refrigeration system to cool the compressed air and remove the water. Even though the drops have water separators they never show any water. This is a Cadillac system and I am very fortunate to have it at my disposal.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 12:53 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,909
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
302, Those refrigerated systems work like magic I noticed that Harbor Freight has a cheap version that may work well. I have no idea how well this thing would hold up or how good of a job it would do but, like most HF stuff, it probably would be worth it's cost-less than $300.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40211
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 02:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Idaho
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
well I finally got my compressor home....35 miles from where I bought it and we used a flatbed snowmobile trailer...then used my tractor and ramps to pull-push the monster into my shop! What an effort, this sucker is heavy. The motor is a Leeson, rated at 5hp continuous duty at 21-23 amps. Does anyone know anything or have opinions on this motor? So far for $1200.00 bucks I am impressed with the build quality of this Puma compressor from the magnetic starter to the nice brass ball valves on the drain and 1/2" NPT output, just looks to be built to handle just about anything I will ever throw at it!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 03:01 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,349
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 53 Times in 49 Posts
I have HF's regular duty 125 PSI FRL air regulator filter lubricator, it has a water seperator in the filter and when I was running it dry w/o oil in it, I didn't have any water, if I use my direct feed that has no regulator, piped off the main system into a 50' hose reel on the outside of my shed the compressor system is in, water continuesly comes out tool exhaust's but not with that regulator. I bought HF's industrial air filter regulator with 1/2" NPT inlet and a oxygen style preassure regulator, for my paintwork but I have not plumbed it in yet.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 06:20 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Alabama
Posts: 39
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have the galvanized piping that all runs at a slant with several downlegs with connections branching off and up with regulator/filters, but still use the cheap disposable filters at gun. When I use to sandblast thats a diff. story cause compressor heats up a lot but I found that the toilet roll style filter works great for that.

Use a flexible connection at compressor like steel braided hose.

On a side note I hear copper piping can be used if silver solder is used in joints for strength.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2006, 06:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: rio de janeiro
Posts: 157
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Help! Also a new compressor issue.I just bought one down here in Brasil.7.5 HP,250 liters tank,30 cfm.Believe it or not it does not come with a magnetic starter (switch?) and no wiring in between the pressostat and motor.TO make matters worse,the instruction manual does not include a diagram!@!#$%#^^&
I will use it o a 3 faze breaker.Does anyone have a diagram I can copy?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2006, 12:43 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Downey, CA
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Air Compressor

If your compressor only uses 3-phase, I don't think residential is wired for it. I'm not an electrician, but I think 3-phase is only in commerial applications.

Alan
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2006, 10:25 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 381
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
True... 3-phase power is rare in residential neigborhoods here in the US. If it was available for me, I can think of a lot of machine tools I'd probably own by now.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2006, 11:32 AM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,349
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 53 Times in 49 Posts
some deep well pumps are 3 phase, the 1 we have is 3 phase, need it cause the well is 425' deep. so there are residential situations where 3 phase wiring is nessasary
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2006, 04:38 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,909
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Matt, Are sure about that? It is not a matter of what you need it is a matter of what is available. 3 Phase is industrial power and not meant for residential use it is not just a matter of simply hooking it up. I can think of no situation , here in the US anyway, where a residential site needs 3 phase power.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2006, 04:43 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,349
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 53 Times in 49 Posts
yep our deep well pump is 3 phase, it's back from the 80's, 1987 to be exzact. it was put in when the house was put in, which is a double wide.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Garage - Tools posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
air lines CARGUY Garage - Tools 96 11-16-2006 04:11 PM
Water in compressor lines??? SouthernRodder Body - Exterior 51 07-28-2006 08:33 AM
Compressor newbie question...(water filter) flipp121 Hotrodding Basics 2 07-06-2005 12:01 AM
Air Compressor Water Traps & Tank Reservoir Drains ultgar Garage - Tools 1 01-26-2005 12:01 PM
Compressor Water Problem MI2600 Garage - Tools 8 12-26-2004 06:54 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.