Best way to deal with very wavy roof - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2011, 10:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,157
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 63
Thanked 104 Times in 88 Posts
Best way to deal with very wavy roof

I have a 67 Mustang coupe. One of my first threads here was about repairing some dents in the roof. I have since repaired those to the best of my abilities and skimmed over them with filler.

However, when I run my flat hand over the roof (the filled areas are on the edges) in the middle where the panel is wide open, I feel many waves. I can't see them, but I can feel them. I'm sure once the shiny epoxy coat goes on they'll dance at me.

The roof is bare metal right now. Is this something that all the blocking and building primer in the world isn't going to fix? I spray all SPI. What are the fixes for this?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2011, 10:45 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 84
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
try and get a straight edge across it to judge the depth of these "waves", if you're more than 1/16ish then you may need to re-skin the roof. Go get yourself a long durablock! (can't recall the length of mine but its 2 1/2 to 3 feet long.) guide coat and long strokes will let you know if its repairable.

good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2011, 11:17 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,076
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 577
Thanked 232 Times in 211 Posts
well at least your filler is at the edges where it's tight and won't affect the middle as much. I'd block on the metal like this //// with 80 grit and then get a good look at what you got going. You can also use a sharpy and make a little grid as your guide coat, or just use the scratches in the metal. Then you can push up on your lows while tapping down on the adjacent highs. You can also hammer from below and push from above. Once you got all the areas then take a flat tear drop mallet/ finishing hammer and dolly/ shot bag and smooth it out. You can also smooth it out from both sides. Then guide coat like this \\\ which is the opposite direction from the last scratches you left which makes it easier to identify. Then repeat til it's straight and more stiff.
Roofs are a pain but when you have access to both sides it just takes a little more time to get it right and it's worth it cause you not only leave yourself with less dust in your garage but you give it the proper flex back. Shrinking disks work well with roofs to finish off.

Last edited by tech69; 04-28-2011 at 11:37 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 05:55 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,240
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 473 Times in 401 Posts
It'll be much easier on you if you epoxy the metal first,use a sandable epoxy then guide coat the epoxy.After everything has cured start blocking and you'll see just how bad it is.The centers of a roof can be very flimsy so It'll be nearly impossable to sand any bondo without it flexing ,so to make life easier you'll need to reinforce the inside to stiffen it up enough to sand.Theres a lot of ways to do this ,like gluing paint paddles to the inside.The method I like (because I have a wood shop at hand) is to cut long lengths of wood at the thickness and width of a paint paddle but long enough to reach from one end to the other,use hot glue or if you can, wedge them into a channel with no glue.space them about 6" apart and your all set...I always remove them afterwards but its up to you.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 01:58 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,380
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 48
Thanked 151 Times in 143 Posts
To me this would be an ideal time to use the shrinking disk as the metal is likely stretched because the roof was dented..The shrinking disk will tighten things up for you..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 02:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: williamston sc
Posts: 319
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am not a proffesional body man but I have a few paint jobs under my belt and just to add my two cents for what it's worth,I use a hankerchief under my hand when feeling for waves and don't look at what I'm feeling.The best way to block that I have found is use a cross hatch pattern when blocking.Try the hanky trick,you may be surprised.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 04:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,157
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 63
Thanked 104 Times in 88 Posts
I do use the hanky trick (actually use a shop towel, but same thing) and it works great. I also shut my eyes and turn my head when I feel so my eyes don't play tricks on me and can concentrate strickly on what I'm feeling.

I have a shrinking disc but it's only a 4.5" one, and my main problem is I think my angle grinder shaft is slightly bent so it has a slight wobble to it. You can't really see it just by looking at it, but on the surface of the shrinking disc you can tell only half of the disc is actually making contact with the metal so I don't think I'm making the metal as hot as I could be. Additionally, the metal gets this black marred look on it after I've used the disc. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong (I squirt water with dish soap on the surface as lubricant as stated in the instructions). Also, I am wondering if the 4.5" is just too small to be of any practical use. I'm sure most of you here would say yes.

I'll try out some of these ideas. I'm glad I can put the epoxy on first and then guide coat, because I'd like to get the epoxy on sooner than later.

I don't have a finishing hammer but I do have a nice slapper. I understand this can serve the function too? I don't have a shot bag either, is this something you guys highly recommend I get?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 05:02 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: williamston sc
Posts: 319
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Power tools are OK for roughing in but thats all, I do all mine by hand and elbow grease.Thakes longer but is more accurate and less boo boos.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 06:56 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,076
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 577
Thanked 232 Times in 211 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer
I do use the hanky trick (actually use a shop towel, but same thing) and it works great. I also shut my eyes and turn my head when I feel so my eyes don't play tricks on me and can concentrate strickly on what I'm feeling.

I have a shrinking disc but it's only a 4.5" one, and my main problem is I think my angle grinder shaft is slightly bent so it has a slight wobble to it. You can't really see it just by looking at it, but on the surface of the shrinking disc you can tell only half of the disc is actually making contact with the metal so I don't think I'm making the metal as hot as I could be. Additionally, the metal gets this black marred look on it after I've used the disc. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong (I squirt water with dish soap on the surface as lubricant as stated in the instructions). Also, I am wondering if the 4.5" is just too small to be of any practical use. I'm sure most of you here would say yes.

I'll try out some of these ideas. I'm glad I can put the epoxy on first and then guide coat, because I'd like to get the epoxy on sooner than later.

I don't have a finishing hammer but I do have a nice slapper. I understand this can serve the function too? I don't have a shot bag either, is this something you guys highly recommend I get?
I highly recommend a shot bag with a plastic tear drop mallet with a shaved face that's nearly flat. The problem with hammer and dolly is that you can over stretch. Before you epoxy you can also kind of rough it out a bit so you can better utilize your epoxy. I tend to find that for roofs when you think it's stretched it might not even be the case cause the arch is what gives it the strength and once something in the middle is displaced it can make you think it's stretched. Sometimes just working it out will tighten up cause it gives it back the arch, but it's always good to finish with a shrinking disk anyways for those. I'm not sure about shrinking disks on hoods or decklids though. I've gotten a lot better since trying it last time on those but my take was that since I didn't take enough time to fix everything really good and parts of the skin are adhered to the supports that it can have adverse affects. Not sure though so I will try it again when time allows.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 05:04 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,240
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 473 Times in 401 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69
but my take was that since I didn't take enough time to fix everything really good and parts of the skin are adhered to the supports that it can have adverse affects. Not sure though so I will try it again when time allows.
Your right ,the adheasive will prevent the metal from moving the way its supposed too.When I have a bad hood The first thing I do is slice through those with my mini saw,I just use a full size hack saw blade in it,after I'm done with the bodywork I'll reglue it...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 09:14 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,076
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 577
Thanked 232 Times in 211 Posts
you're certainly right about that. I had to learn the hard way. I also feel that near the hinges of decklids the glue will continuously pull the outer skin down after you open it a few times and let the hinges stop the hood. My boss thought I was crazy when I said the ding came back.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Took sun roof out of 84 Cutlass cross members missing will roof rattle at high speed? heathj1 Body - Exterior 9 04-16-2009 07:28 AM
jelp with wavy panel.. yasmany Body - Exterior 5 12-12-2007 06:29 AM
Wavy dash pad 428ho Interior 7 11-14-2007 07:15 PM
removing wavy factory leadwork? 62galaxiguy Body - Exterior 11 11-30-2005 07:18 AM
the roof! the roof! the roof is on fire! DragLinkscc Hotrodders' Lounge 18 09-20-2002 08:22 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.