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Old 09-19-2004, 06:44 PM
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best way to fill trim holes???

I'm just wondering the best way to fill trim holes?
could someone possibly give me a step by step??
thanks,

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Old 09-19-2004, 06:57 PM
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Try the faqs for Welding patch panels or applying body filler.
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Old 09-21-2004, 02:38 PM
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Welcome swain....The FAQ section gives a good method of filling trim holes, but you will need a welder....If you don't have a welder you can try what I have done in the past.

Realize that this is not as good as welding, but will fill the hole and is less likely to crack and chip out as plastic filler. I use the sticks of a two part epoxy that makes "metal" (JB Weld makes it). it dries super-hard, like metal and you can grind, tap, machine, and drill the stuff when it's dry. I used this methond on a few holes in the '68 and the results are really good. Just make sure you work the putty from both sides so it doesn't fall in or out of the hole when you start to grind it down.

Again, this may not be a "preferred" method according to any real body guys, but it worked well for me!
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:08 PM
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Another option, depending on your beast, it to use structural adheasive to glue patches behind the holes and fill from the front with good quality filler.
It won't win any awards where they look at the inside but it will be undectable on the outside when you finish
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:14 PM
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Personally, MIG, grind, flap disc or sand, coat with your favorite paint system.
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Old 09-22-2004, 12:05 AM
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I thought I replied the other day about using structural adhesive, but it must have not went through. Anyway, if you do not have a welder, you could use some structural adhesive from say 3M, Fusor or Duramix. You can glue on pieces of sheetmetal to plug the holes. The extra adhesive that protrudes through the hole can be leveled and ground off later and skim filled with glazing compund if needed. Not a weld job, but hey, no weld distortion either. If you ever want to replace it in the future, you can always grind this stuff away. This stuff has been used in the factories for putting on door skins, roof tops, quarter sections and what have you for years. This is my first use of this product, and it really seems like it is some tuff stuff. The 3M 8510 I use is $30 for the cartridge. It seems to go along ways. I bought the gun for $40, but most stores around here who sell this stuff rent the guns as well. I have heard of folks paying $300 for a gun - OUCH! I believe some of the other brands have a built in dispenser. I myself have many uses for this product, so the4 gun was worth it.
Good luck and let us know how it works or what you come up with.
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Old 09-22-2004, 02:32 PM
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there's a how-to floating around where lead is used. All you'd need is one of those $20 map-gas torches, a propane torch or oxy/acetylene rig if you've already got one.

If I remember correctly, you put some metallic tape on the backside, then you heat up the lead and work it into the hole.

just another way of skinning the cat.
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Old 09-23-2004, 11:22 PM
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Ron M.,
I've been using Fusor from Lord because that's what my supplier carries the most (they have some 3M but it is almost always the most expensive choice). My gun was $53 but I've been replacing big panels on a motorhome and it is a lifesaver. One of the reasons I chose structural adheasive to begin with, is that, when cured, it is completely waterproof so my long lap seams don't have any chance of trapping water or other nasty stuff.
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Old 09-24-2004, 12:13 AM
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Julmer

I agree with you about the sealing capabilities. That is one of the things I liked as well. I got my gun from a large local PPG jobber who carries the 3M products as well. I have been wondering if they made a mistake when they only charged me $40 for that gun. The other jobber I checked wanted $300 plus. I am also wondering if it is a genereic replacement. Whatever the case, it works very well and is heavily built. I will be interested to see how this adhesive handles primer and paint over it. I would think it should be no problem being covered by epoxy. I also don't understand why the 8510 adhesive seems to be much cheaper around here. Both of the local jobbers were within the same price range for the adhesive. I do live within about 8 miles from the 3M headquarters, but you wouldn't think that would matter that much?
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:53 PM
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My dealer was about $10 a tube higher for the 3M. Maybe your location saves on shipping and handling or 3M might not want the competition to do well in their back yard.
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Old 09-26-2004, 10:02 PM
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I filled trim holes using ultra fine thread stainless steel screws and ground the off smooth after running them in. Think this would be enough? The car is still sitting stripped so i'm asking before I prime. Should I hit them with a mig?
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Old 09-27-2004, 07:31 AM
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Copper and Mig

I filled some space in mine with copper behind it and mig across it. I used magnets to hold a piece of copper probably 1/16 " behind the hole and filed it in. It lets you fill the hole instead of making a procupine inside the panel. You can see it in my journal if you want to see what you can fill...

I have only melted the copper one time, and that was in a tight spot where it couldn't cool. Also a 1/2" hole. In one of my journal pics you can see what the copper looks like after filling.
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Old 09-27-2004, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rocket1
I filled trim holes using ultra fine thread stainless steel screws and ground the off smooth after running them in. Think this would be enough? The car is still sitting stripped so i'm asking before I prime. Should I hit them with a mig?
iff you just ground them off there's a big chance they will work loose, give it a zapp with the mig.. another way ive used (better than bog) is to countersink hole a little and screw in self tapper cut it off with a bit of screw left each side so you can
gently hammer it to make it lock to you panel.
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Old 09-27-2004, 01:44 PM
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Alright i'll hit it with a mig, It was a self tapper and it's a very small hole, they went in pretty tight. But better safe then sorry.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:45 PM
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I'm new blood and all but maybe this may help maybe not on my car mind you not even a project I've used acid core solder or epoxy resin with a filler even jb weld then sanded and painted used hot glue on plastic parts with holes too don't know if this will help but hell any advice is good advice
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