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Old 07-16-2013, 08:47 PM
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Best way to fix these door gaps

I'm doing my final test fitment, and most of my door gaps are pretty good, but have a tricky spot on driver's door between door and fender. Overall, the door gap is great all around, just one spot where the door sticks out farther than the fender. I'll just post pics rather than try to explain. How should I fix and where to shim?

This is an original door and original fender, so it's not like I'm fighting reproduction sheetmetal.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:51 PM
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And then here's some issues on the passenger's side: original fender, reproduction SKIN on the ORIGINAL door frame. As you can see, the curvature of the skin near where the mirror would mount doesn't have the same radius as the fender. Not sure how to work this...it seems difficult to make that metal move.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:48 PM
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Looks to me like your drivers door needs to come up in the front. On the passenger side it may be up too high, without a shot of the whole door and the rocker it's hard to say. What year is this Mustang? I am thinking about the wing window, does it get one? That fit to the A pillar is pretty critical with the window window.

But that right one also looks like it along with the fender is going to need some "massaging", you have a bit more than simple "alignment" issues there.

Brian
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Old 07-17-2013, 05:41 AM
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One at a time concentrate on the drivers side first. I agree that the front of the door needs to come up a bit but the fender needs to go down a bit also..after that it looks like the door needs to go in a little but its hard to tell if its the door or the ,mabe a little of both...something that might help is if theres any moldings that go on top of the fender and door place them on there and see how they line up...one other trick is lightly guide coat the body lines then sand one side with 400 or finer so theres a destinct line in both door and fender ,it makes lining them up much easier...your very close but I think that fender will need some filler at the top where it meets the door
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:39 AM
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Ok, so just concentrating on the driver's door right now, if the front of the door comes up, isn't this going to mess up my nice gaps along the rocker and quarter panel? I will try taking the front of the door up ever so slightly and see where this gets me first.

I can't push the fender down anymore. If I push down on the top part of the fender and force it down it flexes ever so much and bows out and then is a close fit, problem is I can't figure out a way to keep it like that. There's also some filler on the fender behind the wheel well just above the rocker area...whole area is skimmed. I'm afraid of cracking that if I were to set the fender on the ground (standing it up in the orientation it would be mounted on the car) and pushing down on it to put a little more 'crown' in the side of it.

The door can go in or out, but it moved the door only at the area where the hinges where, it did not bring that entire point of the body line in.

When the door opens that point just BARELY clears going under the fender. By barely I mean you could fit a single hair between there, but 2....no way! It actually might scrape once it gets mil build on it from epoxy sealer, base, and clear.

What if I were to try to re-bow the fender? Run a wire from a hole where it would go on the cowl, other end of the wire is where the fender would mount to the rocker (fender is off the car for this), put a lever in the middle of the wire length and twist the wire to tighten it and pull these two areas of the fender closer together? Don't know if it would hold, spring back, or crack my filler. I guess if I crack the filler I redo it...
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:44 AM
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If you need to move the fender down a little but can't because it won't go down at the bottom, shim it down. Put a shim between the fender and the rocker to allow it to go down.

Will this mess up your perfect fit at the rocker, yep, but that is all about making the "good fit" and not having a perfect fit some places and a horrible fit other places. Often it's better to have a "good" fit overall, it's robbing Peter to pay Paul and it is a regular occurrence when fitting panels to some degree.

And another thing on that door, be sure to look inside too! Look along the outer line of the door on the inside to be sure the gap is consistent for the doors rubber weather strip to work properly. I have forgotten that little tidbit to find that there was too little room for the rubber or the rubber didn't touch at all, only because I was too focused on the outside.

Brian
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:12 AM
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I'll try shimming first and see what that gets me. I forgot to answer your original question, this is a 67, and yes it has the vent windows along the A pillars.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
I'll try shimming first and see what that gets me. I forgot to answer your original question, this is a 67, and yes it has the vent windows along the A pillars.
I don't remember on the Mustang, been a long time for me but be careful often those vent windows don't move a whole lot and you have to respect that while fitting a door. On my Gran Sport for instance, the vent windows were in the doors when I did the fitting as you are doing.

Brian
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:44 PM
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shimming it down will also suck it in. Sometimes shimming down low just isn't to line up a body line but to stretch the fender and pull it into shape. As far as the front of the door needing to go up, that depends on the rocker gap, if it's fine than leave it and use that as a last resort fix. Raising the front of the fender and shimming it down should probably do it. Once the gap is right and you can't move it anymore without getting adverse affects then MAYBE it's the area on top is just out of shape and you have to take the fender off and open it up from the top peak to the upper body line, sometimes even cutting a slice, opening it up, and tacking it while someone's applying pressure to keep it open. This should only be done if you're certain that's what it is, but it's not a rare problem. It's pretty common.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:40 PM
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So tonight I just concentrated on the driver's fender mostly. I shimmed the bottom of the fender where it bolts to the rocker, though I don't want to suck the fender in, I actually want it to bow OUT. I just shimmed it with a cupped washer I had. Can't tell for sure how much it helped though I think it might have lowered the top of the fender some.

I tried shimming the front of the fender but this made it reeeaaally high off the fender skirt. I think I need to put a jack on the floor and use a board to push up that area of the fender skirt just a bit.

The biggest improvement I did was loosening the hinge on the door and pulling the top of the door OUT. This made the gap at the top of the door and fender line up laterally, though the fender still sits just a little bit higher than the door, but I think it's better than it was.

But I still have the problem with the point from the door body line sticking out farther than the fender body line point. If I pull the fender out to line up with it, then I get a big gap between the fender and the cowl, at least 1/4" or maybe 3/8". I'm almost ready to just live with it at this point.

Henry--where does this slice go that you speak of?

Ok, so feel free to comment more on this door, otherwise we can focus on the passenger side door now, I think it's going to be more involved.

Brian, I still need to check the insides and the vent windows. never got around to that tonight. I get some serious ADD in the shop....work on fender...look for hood hinge....go check on the horses...decide to check hay field...decide to pull weeds in field...oh look there's an apple tree!...let's move the horses to another pasture...oh, the fender!
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:17 PM
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My point with shimming it down was to move the top down as well, lowering the rear of the fender. If you only try to lower it and don't bring the bottom lower with a shim when you tighten up the bottom it will suck back up bowing out the fender. That is why I was saying lower it, by shimming at the bottom.

Brian
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:23 PM
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I shimmed at the bottom. But that also flattens the fender rather than bowing it out. I'm not following what you're saying. The fender needs to be bowed to line up with the door better, while at the same time needs to be lowered as well, the latter of which is accomplished by the shim.
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:29 PM
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It may not need to be bowed more, move it down then out at the bottom a little. This is from looking at your photos, I may be off but it looks like just going down is going to get you closer. Remember, the fender and door below the body line are coming in, right? The body line is as far out as they go, so as the fender goes down, below the body line it will be going OUT as well, because the line isn't perfectly vertical.

Brian
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:38 PM
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It's difficult to do this when you only can work from pics and not see it in real life, but if you go back to the second picture I originally posted, that's looking straight down from the top of the fender. You can see how the door body line corner sticks out farther than the fender, or wouldn't be flush if you laid a straight edge across the two panels. While I have been able to get all other parts of the two panels relatively close, this phenomenon in the picture still persists.

In other words, when all the other edges of the two panels are relatively aligned, that damn corner wants to stick out on its own.

Last edited by Lizer; 07-17-2013 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:47 PM
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Oh yeah, sorry, then you want to do a little of both, or simply slide the fender down from the top with the bottom loose, then tighten up the bottom and it will bow the fender out.

Brian
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