Best way to heat and cool Garage?

I am planning on building a new garage that measures 24 X 38, 8 foot walls with insulation, 3/12 roof pitch, built on a concrete slab. I was trying to decide weather to put in a heat - cool window unit or should I go for an electric central unit, mounted on a slab? What size unit, and ballpark idea of what it would cost would be nice. Any advice appreciated. Thanks


Register now (free) or login to remove ads

The best advice I can give is talk to a reputable area residential genral contractor and get his opinion because there are way to many unseen factors to be able to give sound advice. good luck

Does not cost anything to get at least 3 estimates unless you only have one heating and cooling contractor in your area. Mitsubishi offers a ductless system in that one large compressor is outside and wall units are installed inside that are nothing but an evaporator and fan connected to the high and low pressure lines from the Compressor/condenser unit. You can get these in the heat pump configuration which should work great in Ala.

Trees

I know someone that uses one of those Mitsubishi units and it works great. I'm not sure of the cost though.

if you use a metal roof the 3/12 is fine but for comp roofing you should go to a 4/12.the flatter the roof is the more water will blow up under the roofing.just a thought.and the insurance co. doesnt like 3/12 at all unless its metal.

Use the search function here http://garagejournal.com/forum/ Lots of ? & answers about your issue.

I have a 24x40 garage stick framed very well insulated walls and ceiling garage is sheeted with osb. I have a propane furnace out of a mobile home for heat works great keeps it plenty warm!!!!! I put a window ac unit in last year in the wall it was 220 and rated for 1000 -1200 sq ft it does alright but not great during our 100 degree days it kept it at 75 . I would look into a better way to cool then window unit if I were to do it again I'm in eastern tn hope this helps

I will be putting in a heat system in my garage and it will be a forced air with the ducts in the ceiling so I can have clean filtered air..I should be able to find a furnace on craigslist that will work..

Sam

__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..

I used to live in Tacoma wa for 42 years I did that same thing when I lived there ,my garage now the heat just blows out freely from furnace I plan on doing the duct work in the future to get more even distibution of heat but like everything got to wait for $$$$$$$$$ lottery please

I just built a 24 x 28 garage,, for heat / ac my contractor told me what is popular currently is the same all in one units used in hotels, think Holiday Inn Express,,the all in one units typically found under a window

as the $ is always a factor I elected to spend else where,, I did go with a full insulation package, walls, ceiling, floor, my garage doors do open to the west so I'll get a breeze in the summer also have adjacent existing large trees for shade. In the winter I plan to have an electric space heater.

There is only one way to go, I have a 30X60 shop with a 18X30 upstairs the walls are 2X6 24 on center, three windows, two facing south, one west. Two doors both facing west, one 16 wide by 15 high, the other is 12 wide by 10 high.
Now I don't know how cold it gets in Ala. in the winter, I live 150 miles north of the T.C. in MN.. The winters up here get to -40f so it's a tad chilly some morning when you go to the shop. What I did was put heat in the floor you can't beat it, the cement holds the heat and as heat goes up your shop is warm from floor to ceiling, I run two 3 blade fans real slow to drive the warm air down from the ceiling. When you are on the creeper it is nice and warm. with forced air there is noway you will get the floor near as warm. it cost about the same as a furnace.
I cool the shop with two 110volt a/c units in the wall, I got them on sale in the fall for around $240.00 each. Cool goes down so I put them both up high on my 15 foot walls, one on the east wall, one on the west, I also staggered them so one is in one corner, to the south , and the other is in the corner to the north. Most of the time I only have to run one. Whichever one I'm using they will cool or heat the upstairs area. Even if it's 40 or 50 degrees out that floor heat can't be beat.

Later 35terraplane

The initial cost of the Mitsubishi units are a bit more expensive unless you get complex on your duct work/air handling system. The energy savings should make up for the increased cost in about 3 years and then you are money ahead. I have one of the in-wall motel units in the sun room of my home and honestly say you will not like the cost of operating enough of those units to do the summer/winter job in your area. My unit is 4 years old and I don't think there has been much EE improvements in that time.

Trees

I also have heat in the floor of my house,, we have wood and tile floors and they are both warm. You have to put down sand first then installation. your tubing for the fluid to run though, and then the cement some only use 4", while I used 5", it takes longer to heat up but once it gets warm it takes a long time to cool down. I even have it in the house garage, which I keep at about 40-45 degrees. Everything is zoned so you can have some parts of the house warmer or cooler than others. you can fuel it by Geo-thermo, gas or electric, wood, anything that will make heat.

Later 35 terraplane

My shop and my new storage shed both have hydronic heat in them.

2" of blue foam board laid on the ground,then 6x6 wire mesh, 1/2" pex tubing on 1 ft centers. copper manifolds.
Fired with a nat gas hot water heater, an expansion tank, and a Grundfos circ pump.
120v baseboard heater thermostat, wired in series with the pump is the only control circuitry.
Cheap and works great.

And I bet it's pretty nice on the creeper or just on your feet on a chilly morning.

Later 35terraplane