[bigdog7373]

How's the car coming? Any updates. I'm thinking I should do the same but not sure it its worth pulling the subframe since my car doesn't have much rust. May do it just so I can do a complete job. What do you guys think. Sorry to thread jack..

[rusthater89]

I went overseas the last month so not much got done. I ended up buying a 2 ton Harbor Freight crane. It was missing bolts and had paint knocked off. They gave it to me for $150. I just pulled off what was left to be removed. I should have the engine and maybe even the frame out next week.

[bigdog7373]

Well now that you got a crane, be safe and pull the engine/trans out. Will make the rest that much easier. Good luck, keep us updated

[rusthater89]

Looks like I am about ready to get that Engine and frame apart.

Few more minor things to remove like speedometer cable and such but I think I got just about everything.

I want to get the car higher but the Harbor Freight jack stands don't go very high. The craftsmans I got on the control arms can go really high if I wanted. Maybe i'll get some more wood blocks for the harbor freight stands.

[bigdog7373]

So you're pulling the engine/tranny now? Thats good, will make it much easier. Remeber the trans cooler lines are bolted to the oil pan on the passengers side. They will bend if you dont disconnect them from the engine. This is assuming you have an auto and the engine hasn't been out before.

[rusthater89]

Originally Posted by bigdog7373

So you're pulling the engine/tranny now? Thats good, will make it much easier. Remeber the trans cooler lines are bolted to the oil pan on the passengers side. They will bend if you dont disconnect them from the engine. This is assuming you have an auto and the engine hasn't been out before.

Thanks for the tip. I'll check the trans cooler lines. The engine has been out. Someone put a sb Chevy 350 in it but it still has the BOP Turbo 350 Transmission.

It fooled me. I put in 3.73 rear gears a few years back (stock had 2.42 gears.) I bought chevy speedometer gears and what bummer that was to realize I had a BOP trans all along.

I'll be busy the next few days but like I posted before hopefully it will be out this weekend.

[bigdog7373]

Good luck

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by rusthater89

Someone put a sb Chevy 350 in it but it still has the BOP Turbo 350 Transmission.

This was done w/an adapter plate, right? Be sure to keep track of the special spacer washers that are between the torque converter and flex plate if you remove the transmission.

[rusthater89]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

This was done w/an adapter plate, right? Be sure to keep track of the special spacer washers that are between the torque converter and flex plate if you remove the transmission.

Of course. I don't think it can be done without an adaptor of some sort.

[rusthater89]

Quick questions.

What would be the best way to attach the crane to the engine to pull both engine and trans out? Should I attach brackets to the intake bolts? Should I use the thermostat bolts, etc?

It looks like the headers may not be able to come out with the engine. Do people normally install headers from the bottom? It looks to be a very tight fit.

Thanks in advance.

[bigdog7373]

Lift from the front of one head and the back of the other. (front left and back right is what i use because of tranny dipstick tube). Use any grade 5 bolt that fits. I use two from the accessories or intake bolts work too.

Headers are usually easier to install from under but most of the time you can pull them with the engine. Is easier though if you take them off.

[rusthater89]

Boy, what fun I had today.

I removed part of the exhaust(headers to muffler joint pipe) to allow ease when working on the floor rust. Whoever installed it used one of those dumb clamps that crush the pipe. I tried to remove it without cutting but got fustrated and just chopped it off. I'll weld it back later.

I still had the slip yoke in the rear of the tranny. I tried to put a milk jug under it to catch the tranny fluid when I slid the shaft out the rear. The darn uv joint on the shaft hit the funnel spilling tranny fluid all over me and the floor. When I finally got the funnel back under it, turns out the damn jug was leaking.

**************
When all hell was done I was finally ready to pull out the engine/trans. I got the mounts off the frame and tried to slide the engine/tran out. Turns out the header is getting caught on the bottom of the firewall where it meets the floor.

I am done for today. I guess tommorow I have to yank out the headers.

Wish me luck!!!!!

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by rusthater89

Boy, what fun I had today.

I removed part of the exhaust(headers to muffler joint pipe) to allow ease when working on the floor rust. Whoever installed it used one of those dumb clamps that crush the pipe. I tried to remove it without cutting but got fustrated and just chopped it off. I'll weld it back later.

I still had the slip yoke in the rear of the tranny. I tried to put a milk jug under it to catch the tranny fluid when I slid the shaft out the rear. The darn uv joint on the shaft hit the funnel spilling tranny fluid all over me and the floor. When I finally got the funnel back under it, turns out the damn jug was leaking.

**************
When all hell was done I was finally ready to pull out the engine/trans. I got the mounts off the frame and tried to slide the engine/tran out. Turns out the header is getting caught on the bottom of the firewall where it meets the floor.

I am done for today. I guess tommorow I have to yank out the headers.

Wish me luck!!!!!

The F-cars generally won't sallow the engine to be pulled w/the headers attached- as you found out. You don't need to try to remove them, though. Just remove the bolts and slide them away from the engine just enough so they don't catch on anything.

When reinstalling the engine I set the headers loosely into the engine compartment then slip the engine down between them. Tighten once the engine is settled into place.

If you cut the exhaust gaskets (some gaskets come that way) you can install some of the bolts first, then slip the gasket in between the header and head. On a 1-piece exhaust gasket you only need to slot the end holes and maybe one more towards the middle. The exhaust gaskets shown below have worked well for me in the past even though they're made for stock-type cast iron manifolds.



Good luck.

[cdminter59]

I use this engine lift from Summit Racing and pull my big block 454 with transmission together. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1015-1/. I used new 1 1/2" studs to bolt it to the intake.

[rusthater89]

Got it out. Guess it's time to get back to body work