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Old 12-17-2008, 06:46 PM
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best ways for alot of power 'mopar'

i was wondering how to get alot of hp and torque out of my 383 with out crappy nos or blowers, price range $0-2000

or for the actrual car i have a 66 sport fury i got 3.23 posi in it


Also i was wondering are unibodys bad for hauling ***?

thank you
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Old 12-17-2008, 06:53 PM
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Never mind. YOu said mopar.

Last edited by Jsup; 12-17-2008 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 07:11 PM
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Stroker kit and Mopar performance heads will do it.
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Old 12-17-2008, 07:44 PM
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create a 383 commando, which is a 383 with 440 heads... bump your compression, add some cam, and it should not be hard to make some HP..

Mopar used unibody's on all of there cars from 1959? on.. and all of there Muscle cars have seemed to hold up ok over the last 40 years..
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Old 12-18-2008, 07:04 AM
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Sub frame connectors work on helping the uni-body stay together. And you better use them if your planning on making any serious horsepower! Saw a picture of an early cuda or challenger that was completely bent in the middle at the starting line of some dragstrip. Too much power twisted the body!
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d&c repairs it all
i was wondering how to get alot of hp and torque out of my 383 with out crappy nos or blowers, price range $0-2000

or for the actrual car i have a 66 sport fury i got 3.23 posi in it


Also i was wondering are unibodys bad for hauling ***?

thank you
Subframe connectors are a good idea.
Raise your unibody car on a "spider" lift and watch how much it sags. Sometimes the doors won't hardly open or close.

383s make decent power if not overcammed. Your 66 heads are OK, not great. 383 are underheaded, generally speaking. If you can mildly port the heads, that helps. Professional porting is prohibitively expensive. You can do it yourself with the Mopar templates and get a reasonable job if careful.
I prefer the closed chamber heads over the later better ported open chamber heads. Quench is important and you can run 10/1 compression with closed chambers on lower octane.

Stay with a 108* LSA and durations in the 224 @ .050 range with a single pattern cam timed at 104*. Lobes designed for the Mopar lifters are preferred. Purple shafts are good cams but the lobes are not state of the art, but what makes the cams good is their LSA. Study what Mopar Performance says.

Performer RPM intake, BIG 750+ Edelbrock AVS, and good headers of a not too large diameter/ 1 3/4 max. 1 5 /8 preferred.
The 4-2-1 header is a definite plus, and use a 24" collector extension.

Stall converters in the actual 2500 range are necessary with 3.23 gears. Remember you are launching a C body car. 3.55 are better but highway cruising gets tougher. 4.10s are the best launchers but are only good for a weekender unless you like cruising at 3000 rpm @ 60 mph.

It doesn't take very much to get an honest 300 hp at the tires from a factory iron headed 383.

Oh by the way, we have a yard full of 383/440 B and C cars. 8 I think.
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Old 12-20-2008, 12:06 AM
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Here is a Link on how to add 117 H.P to a Stock Mopar 383 . http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spa...picID=20314546
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:17 AM
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Put the 383 in a lighter car.......The Fury is a barge to push around.
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Old 12-29-2008, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TANGO
Here is a Link on how to add 117 H.P to a Stock Mopar 383 . http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spa...picID=20314546
Idling rough and
lacking snap below 3000 rpm, (read article carefully)
now all you need is a 3000 stall
and 3.70 or 3.91 gears
for 9 mpg on the highway at 60 mph.

It looks good on the dyno but will be a pain in the butt on the street= unless you don't mind a street driven overcammed pseudo "race engine".
But it will feel good when driving around at 5000 rpm.

(that is a lot of cam for low compression,
single plane intake for rpm,
and don't forget the exhaust system restriction)

Seriously, we have built several similar because that is what the customer wanted.
Every one, every one, has come back and gotten 355 or 323 gears, dual plane intakes, and a smaller cam, and usually a lesser 2400 stall to match.

Last edited by ScoTFrenzel; 12-29-2008 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:45 AM
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ScoTFrenzel is right. People with little or no experience will generally point someone to an article they've read, even though they don't understand it. I also noticed that he gave you the link to his board instead of to the actual article, but that's typical for some people. Self promotion usually fails to impress.

A Fury is a "big" car and will never be a real "quick" car unless you have a lot more to spend than 2 grand. You can make it a respectable runner but the key is not to go overboard with the carb and cam. If you don't want to stroker kit, you can simply improve the engine's ability to breath with better heads, a mild cam, headers and good quality mufflers, along with a good dual plane intake manifold and the right carburation. That will give you good throttle response and excellent drivability. You can probably do all that for $2000. The next thing, when you have more money would be a better set of gears.

Good luck.

Last edited by Centerline; 12-29-2008 at 10:56 AM.
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