Yeah Ken (is that your first name?) I was going to ask what kind of body man he was dealing with too. But honestly, I can't see the door and he may be right, it IS a repro after all. I have installed some pretty crappy repro parts I could see having to take the cut off wheel to the door to make it fit.
In fact, a 67 that we just did at the shop had some dii brand sheetmetal that could have been inproved with an air chisel. They were absulute garbage.
But like I said, it could be in at the top in the front causing this. I could see the door having the hinge mount nut plate in the wrong place WAY before needing the thing "narrowed"?
Ripped, if you don't have the fenders on and you havn't looked at how the door fits to the inner pinch weld, you don't know how those doors are fitting.
An excerpt from "Basics of Basics" Trial fitting parts.
If you canít install the rubber at that time at least spend some time looking at where the rubber fits to for a proper gap. For instance, while fitting a decklid to your new quarter (or the other way around, it makes no difference) get in the trunk and close the lid. Inspect around the channel where the rubber fits. Be sure it is a uniform distance ALL the way around. You can usually find the correct distance right where the hinges are. If the panel fits correctly on the outside then that gap for the rubber is usually going to be correct. If you feel for some reason that there is damage to that area, you need to spend some time there. If you feel the car has been hit on the side piller post (if you were fitting the door) you really need insure that the door fits properly and that you KNOW what that rubber gap should be. This gap is usually a uniform distance all the way around, be sure of it. When you are doing a door, you always have the other side to check to guidance remember. When installing a quarter, rear panel, upper panel, this is very critical. You donít want to find out later that your gap is too small, the lid wonít close properly or sticks up. You donít want to find out the gap is too large, the rubber may not seal and the trunk leaks water. A little minor shifting of parts prior to welding could take care of it.
You want ALL gaps perfect PRIOR to welding (a little tack here or there may be needed for fitting the parts) there is NOTHING that will tell you this other than FULLY mounting the adjacent parts.
As Ken said, sometimes you need to "Rob Peter to pay Paul" when fitting parts. You may move the quarter out a hair to meet a door that is out a hair to far. I am no saying you move the quarter out a half and inch to where the door is now. You twist, move the top front out, and THEN with a little "fudging" on the quarter you get a good fit.
If you are hanging both the door and the quarter at once, this could get you into trouble fast. Put the original door back on, see how it fits to that new quarter. And while you are at it, see how it fits at the inner pinch weld as discribed in the "Basics". It isn't going to do you any good to fit that door on the outside if your inside is all screwed up.