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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kringold
With your work area outdoors flux core is the way to go. Once you get inside tho you might want to add the gas kit.
BTW nice find on the El Camino and what do you mean no welding? Did it come with a rollcage?

No rollcage for the Elky as I don't plan on running it at the track. I will need a rollcage for the Trans Am, with the HiPo 350 I'm putting in, it will probably need it.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 09:01 PM
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rollcage

For something as important for safety as a rollcage Tig is the only way to go.
Innershield sucks in my book as a messy process, not on a rollcage as far as safety. Have it welded up with the right welding process or have it farmed out.
JMO's .....=o&o>.....
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
several people tell me since I do my welding in the driveway the gas will just blow away, and I'll have no sheilding?
That's true. But with flux core your shielding comes from the "flux" that is in the center of the wire.

Last edited by kringold; 10-18-2006 at 09:44 PM.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 10:28 PM
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welding

Bottom line when a critical weld is required weld in a shop or a protectected area with Tig. Crappy welds will not get past tech with drag racing not alone a streetrod that falls apart on the street, must be a reason for good sound welds ya think? I could not afford the Miller Tig (350 Synchrowave loaded 1991 model) and Miller (351 w/spoolgun 2002) these days with the price tag they're asking these days. Playing as a personal hobby these days costs big time money.
.....=o&o>.....
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 07:45 AM
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Kringold, Gas-less flux core is in no way the same as "duel shield" and adding gas to the gas-less wire will do absolutely nothing to improve the weld and will only waste ga$ and money! With the "duel shield" wires gas is a requirement because it is the shield with the powdered core adding alloys to the weld and forming a protective slag but offering next to no protection from atmospheric gas for the molten puddle. The flux in the gas-less wire creates a gas shield around the puddle protecting it from atmospheric contamination and this same gas would also shield the puddle from any extra gas from a tank thus the extra gas would do nothing except waste money. Save your gas for solid wires and wire such as "Twenty Gauge" or the "duel shield" wires that are commonly used in industry. One of my favorites is the "Hobart Excell Arc 71" which is available in .035 and uses either C25 or straight CO2, this wire is great for metals thicker than body panels and for those with a 220 volt machine it is extremely useful.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
One of my favorites is the "Hobart Excell Arc 71" which is available in .035 and uses either C25 or straight CO2, this wire is great for metals thicker than body panels and for those with a 220 volt machine it is extremely useful.
Hmmm. Now that there is worth looking in to. Thanks for the tip.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 07:02 PM
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Don't waste your time looking at home style 120 volt machines, look at 230 volts as the extra power and better control setting will become handy when needed as you learn about welding.
Like I said before, buy good once and higher amperage as it's cheaper than buying twice.
.....=o&o>.....
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