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Old 06-23-2010, 10:45 PM
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Best and worse cordless drill?

Who makes the best and worst cordless drill?

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Old 06-24-2010, 12:34 AM
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I have absolutely no idea....but I did have a 19v Craftsman kit, drill, 5.5" circular saw, reciprocating saw and a light...$170. I built several small barns and sheds with those tools. The two batteries finally gave out so I bought new ones, a couple of years later the drill finally broke inside. For the money I spent and the work I got out of those tools was money well spent.

I now have an 18v DeWalt drill, the thing is a workhorse and is quite a bit more powerful than the Craftsman drill. Just stick to name brand tools, there's lots of junk floating around.
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:45 AM
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i have a 18v from harbor freight. I have had it for three years and have used the fool out of it. never had a problem.
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Old 06-24-2010, 04:48 AM
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My first was a weakling - a Ryobi, but a long time ago. The second a 14v Porter Cable and a real nice tool. After 5 years the clutch blew. Then B&D bought them out, and any reviews I read said they were only a so-so tool. I have a 14.4v Bosch. It isn't as good as the P-C and the batteries don't do as well, but still is a pretty good tool as long as you keep the spare battery near. I've used several of a carpenter friends DeWalts (also a B&D tool) and they work well.

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Old 06-24-2010, 05:19 AM
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My favorite, indestructable thus far, Bosch BruteForce 18v drill/driver. My 10.8v Hitachi driver ain't bad either. I absolutely hate Craftsman electrical devices. Everyone that I have had burned up very quickly. My dad's actually melted on him.
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:37 AM
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Cordless drill

I have never owned or used every cordless drill made so I cannot give my opinion on all of them. I can give my opinion of a Skill cordless drill and that is don't buy one.. The battery of the Skill drill is nearly impossible to remove from the drill with you hand alone. You must knock it out with a hammer or a the edge of a table. The best one I have ever owned was a Mikita cordless drill. The only bad thing about that drill was that the battery would not take a charge after about 18 months. Mikita has probably improved the battery in the 10 years that I owned one. I will buy another Mikita the next time. Mikita is a more expensive than the others but it is worth the extra cost.
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:09 AM
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At one time I did some production wood working. Right now I have cordless drills by Porter Cable in 12V (flashlight also), 14.4V and 19.2V; Ryobi in 14.4V and 18V; an old B&D 9.9 and a Chinese "Twister" 16.8 V (gift).

All of these drills have motors made by Johnson. The two bigger PC drills have a hammer drill function for drilling concrete, etc..

The Twister and B&D do not have dynamic braking, that is to say they "coast" to a stop.

The biggest problem w/the Ryobi and the reason I bought the PC drills, is the plastic handles of both of them get sticky- just like a GM steering wheel.

If and when I ever buy another cordless drill, it will have the nickel metal hydride-type batteries. Until then, I really like my Porter Cable drills.
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:18 AM
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I have a Makita drill and driver set- nicad batteries are the way to go if
you have any cold weather- they hold their charge and run forever.As stated
elsewhere- pro level is much better than homeowner grade but I have not
had great luck with dewalt, Also Makita makes several levels of tools and the
lower levels are not on par with the high end stuff- you tend to get what
you pay for! I find 18 volt is a good balance between wieght, size, and
capacity for my use- my driver will drive 6 inch lag bolts with no problem thru
lvl's! Jim
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:30 AM
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I don't have a clue either..all I can say is that the Dewalt I had lasted me years of abuse until it died..I now have a Portor Cable kit with all the tools and the tools are fine butthe batteries are not all that great..short life to them..maybe some better battery packs would be good..

Sam
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:55 AM
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I personally am a dewalt fan. My dads commercial HVAC business has been using them for years and they hold up well to the abuse. But with any tool there are so many variables unique to the individual user. The batteries go bad in a couple years (but the drills are usually used daily) and then I send the batteries to be rebuilt. Eventually the clutch or switch will go out on the drill and then it is junk. The guys usually get at least 3 years out of them if not more and they are beat to a pulp daily. They usually have the XRP drills, dewalt has different grades and the cheaper ones do not last as long.

I am a huge fan of the rebuilt batteries, charge time lasts longer and the overall life of the battery is also much longer.
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
I don't have a clue either..all I can say is that the Dewalt I had lasted me years of abuse until it died..I now have a Portor Cable kit with all the tools and the tools are fine butthe batteries are not all that great..short life to them..maybe some better battery packs would be good..

Sam
Sam - you can buy individual sub-C batteries and rebuild the P-C battery packs for about 2/3rds the cost of their new. I did a couple using cheapie batteries and they were much better then the 2 new packs that cost me ~$100 for the pair. The new P-C's - they just ain't as good as the old ones.

Dave W
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Old 06-24-2010, 07:16 AM
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I am a big Milwaukee fan, and when I though I'd lost my 12v cordless (which I loved), I went and bought one of these:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/Product...ordless+System

I bought it as a kit (w/2 Batteries, a Charger and Case)-it has tons of torque, takes a good while to run the Battery out, and has been my favortie Drill-I would highly recommend it-I did find my old 12V, and while it is a good unit, the 18 kills it hands down-
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Sam - you can buy individual sub-C batteries and rebuild the P-C battery packs for about 2/3rds the cost of their new. I did a couple using cheapie batteries and they were much better then the 2 new packs that cost me ~$100 for the pair. The new P-C's - they just ain't as good as the old ones.

Dave W
I send them to an online company, they are $45 to rebuild and they are much better than new. They have the correct tools to weld the batteries together. I figured I could do it myself but they guys are really hard on the batteries and I didn't want to be always messing with loose connections if I did it wrong.

How did you attach the batteries to the metal strips?
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:43 AM
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I use silver solder, the batteries can (depending on how they're stacked) be shrink wrapped together to prevent the connections from being stressed by too much movement. I also use HD braid to connect them instead of solid copper strips.
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snorulz

How did you attach the batteries to the metal strips?
Same as the P-C OEM batteries, rosin core electrical solder and about 20 minutes per pack
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