[whytry]

Ok First off my Current powerplant is a 468 BB with AFR Custom heads 315+ ported and polished with a 3 angle valve job. I have a custom ground cam from Comp Cams - 306,310 duration, 636,640 lift, and a 108 lobe center hydraulic roller. Victor Jr intake with a 850 HP carb that had been worked over. 10.5:1 compression and a strong bottom end. This is connected to a TH350 tranny, with a Holeshot 3000 Stall and a GM 10 bolt with Eaton Posi and 3.73 gears.

I have not had to use the bottle yet, and since I am still getting the car to launch good I have not had the desire yet....

Willys36 - I sent a PM but your box was full... my email addy is whytry@musclesyndicate.com

[Tony@AirRideTech]

Willy's ........ are you hanging the forward mounts on a shackle?

[willys36@aol.com]

Originally posted by Tony@AirRideTech
Willy's ........ are you hanging the forward mounts on a shackle?

That's one fix, Which I used on my buddie's '42 Willys pick up. The other is one I use on my Willys. Weld a 1/2" piece of pipe in the end of the ladder bar and make a mount on the frame that encapsulates a MII front suspension trailing arm donut. The pipe slips tightly into the rubber bushing and allows the T-bar to travel in its arc while the spring travels in its separate arc. Both approaches work great.

[gchandler]

There is an alternative setup that works really well for f-body cars. Check it out at

www.hotrodstohell.net

I am running this setup on my chevelle and it works great. I took about .5 sec off my car when changing from hotchkis boxed rear trailing arms to Truckarm. Not to mention that the car rides and handles like a dream.

[whytry]

G,

I looked into it and like it, but it is $4000 to get it installed and from what I was told and that is too high of a price for me at this time. Plus the fact that I have to ditch the new exhaust I just got and get a whole new system put on.

I like the idea, and I read about it in SC, but it is too expensive for me. Now if they were looking for another car to do a "Shop Install" on I would quickly volunteer my car...

Willys - thanks for the email I will read it over tonight...

[TurboS10]

Maybe I missed this suggestion, but why not just get a set of floaters for the leafs. Then they will let the axle follow the arc of the bars and not bind. With them and a set of bars you can be in business real quick.

Chris

[Tony@AirRideTech]

You could also use a wishbone from Thomas Racing components out of houston..........

[willys36@aol.com]

Originally posted by TurboS10
Maybe I missed this suggestion, but why not just get a set of floaters for the leafs. Then they will let the axle follow the arc of the bars and not bind. With them and a set of bars you can be in business real quick.

Chris

Main reason is I can build my own w/ shackles for $0 and floaters cost $90! Also, I don't particularly like the look of the floaters. I have never studied how floaters work. Do they allow the axle to both rotate and move forward and backward in relation to the spring?

[TurboS10]

While I have never set any up, my understanding from what I have seen is that the floaters allow the axle to move forward and backward so that the two intersecting travel arcs of the bars and the springs do not conflict with each other and bind up. There will be no axle rotation with ladder bars.

Chris

[willys36@aol.com]

Originally posted by TurboS10
While I have never set any up, my understanding from what I have seen is that the floaters allow the axle to move forward and backward so that the two intersecting travel arcs of the bars and the springs do not conflict with each other and bind up. There will be no axle rotation with ladder bars.

Chris

If that's the case, I think a front shackle is a simpler (and cheaper) solution.

[TurboS10]

I never really thought of the front shackle thing, but it does make sense. Only draw back I can see is controlling ride height.

Chris